Building Alfred

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This topic contains 228 replies, has 23 voices, and was last updated by  mustang_evets 5 years, 8 months ago.

Viewing 25 posts - 26 through 50 (of 229 total)
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  • #253054

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Anyone know what the wheelbase of a CMC/Fiberfab Pinto-based car is?

    #253055

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    I’ll measure mine when I get home tonight.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253056

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Mine measures 93.5″

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253057

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Makes sense. The donor Pinto was 94.2. Thanks for the measurement. I will use this to lay out my chassis.

    #253058

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Received a plasma cutter for Christmas: a Locos 520D, which is also a TIG welder. I finally got to the point that I ran out of floor space, so first project it to make a welder cart that combines my old MIG, an Oxy-Acetylene and my chop saw.
    First step is to lay out for welder and bottles.

    Looks like a frame

    With wheels

    Loaded with chop saw on top

    with Oxy/Acetylene setup around back. Now I can easily wheel all this in place and store it all back in place. Can start making an MG frame soon.

    #253059

    pmossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    Nice work!

     

    Gotta love having to build stuff…so that you can build other stuff!

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to http://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #253060

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Now, that is a great little work station.
    Everything in one place but fully portable at the same time.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253061

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    The front wheels are from a shopping cart I and the rears are from Lowe’s. Both have ball bearings, so it rolls fairly easily, in spite of the weight of the stuff onboard. I estimate it to be close to 400 lbs total.

    #253062

    royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Very very nice.  

    #253063

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Progress. I spent all day getting the front square to the plywood frame platform and then getting the angles right for the front frame risers. Tomorrow I’ll use some pocket screws to hold these parts together.


    Next I need to work on the rear arch.

    #253064

    edsnova
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Man, they said these things had wood frames originally, but….:-)

    #253065

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    I can’t tell from the photos as to what rear you’re running. As a note of caution, the popular 6-3/4″ ring gear used in the Pinto is rather weak. Once I hotrodded my motor I started blowing those things apart. Don’t know what your plans are other than a larger engine, but please consider a beefier component for your build.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253066

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    That rear is just a placeholder. It came with my parts car. Yesterday I bought a rear from a 76 Cobra II, a Ford 8″. Looks a lot beefier.

    #253067

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Yep, that’s the one to go with. That was used all through the sixties on real mustangs with V8’s. It’ll handle your planned V6. If the tag is still attached to the carrier bolts, the ratio should be stamped in the lower left corner. Mine was equipped with 3:40’s. When I swapped to a 5 speed I switched to 4:11’s. I still have that original carrier stored in a 5 gallon bucket of oil.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253068

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Being hopelessly forever an engineer, I came up with a method to accurately measure the gear ratio. Raise one wheel and block the other. Let both wheels turn if you have posi. Make a mark (via masking tape and magic
    marker) on each of rear yoke and diff housing. Put a piece of masking
    tape around the entire tire and make a start mark using a chair or
    something to point to the start mark on the tire. Turn the wheel until
    the drive shaft makes exactly one turn. Make a second mark on the tire
    masking tape for the distance the tire traveled. Cut off the tire
    masking tape exactly at the start mark. Lay the tape straight and
    measure the tire circumference (whole tape) and divide by distance tire
    moved (second mark). Multiply by two. That’s the ratio. Don’t multiply
    if you have posi.

    #253069

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    You can simplify that by spinning the driveshaft once and seeing how many times the tire turns.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253070

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    In short, that’s exactly what I said, move the driveshaft exactly one turn and measure how much less than one turn the tire moves. For example, on a 3.00 rear end the tire will move 1/3 of a revolution for a full turn of the driveshaft.

    #253071

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    It’s been a while since I made real progress. Problem was I needed to finish the design of the rear suspension. The driver was that it had to fit and also needed to change over from the MII 40″ leaf spring to smaller coil spring setup. Also had to fit either a three or four link with panhard within the confines of the room given under the package tray. Finally settled on three link without panhard, shown later.First pic shows after-market Mustang trailing arm with coil mount and also a tubular a-arm that serves both as third link and panhard.
    Next pic is a frame in pieces…
    First weld…

    #253072

    royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Did you (or do you) work in a high end garage?  Race team?  How did you acquire such skills?  Wish you were my next door neighbor.  LOL

    #253073

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    One side of frame laid out and tacked together

    Welded the two frame sides.

    Bracket for Ford 8″ to hold a ball joint. This serves as the third link and makes a panhard unnecessary.

    A-Arm from Speedway Race catalog, later will be bolted to a frame crossmember that I can only locate once lower trailing arms are done and pinion angle set. Long way from now….
    Side view…

    #253074

    royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Did you (or do you) work in a high end garage?  Race team?  How did you acquire such skills?  Wish you were my next door neighbor.  LOL

    #253075

    gkesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Although I have rebuilt several old cars and trucks, some with serious body rust problems, this is my first frame. I am lucky to have a friend down the street who likes to build cars from scratch. I’m down there about twice a week with my progress and asking advice on the next step. It was his suggestion to use an A-arm instead of a panhard.

    #253076

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Nice custom frame. That use of the control arm as an upper strut is really a novel approach. That should work really well with the addition of another crossmember. Beautiful.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #253077

    edsnova
    Participant

    @edsnova

    I like the A-arm idea. Easy to source part, and the setup is not unlike what Jaguar did on the early C-Type to augment the torsion bars. Have you seen road-going hotrods with that setup?

    #253078

    royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Got it!  I wish your next door neighbor was my next door neighbor.  

    You’re doing really nice work.  Are you going to do the welding or get your neighbor to do it?  Rockyx’s son does super welding, but he’s in Fla.  When I get done welding something, I hide it as quickly as I can.  
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