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When storing my car for the winter. Should the battery be taken out or just disconnected . I start it once a month all winter long . Today It turned over real slow did not start. Lots of cold weather past month . Will charge it tomorrow . Car is in a non heated but insulated garage.
Simply disconnecting it will prevent any draining caused by car’s wiring harness, though they’ll slowly discharge without a load. (Should you remove it, DO NOT set it on a concrete floor for storage. Put wood underneath it, or set it up on a shelf.) Hooking it up to a 2amp battery maintainer/automatic trickle charger will keep it topped off and at full charge when you put it back in the spring…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I know that there are lots of schools of thought on this one. Here’s my advice: (knowing you live in the Buffalo, NY area)
1. Change the engine oil.
2. Empty the fuel tank into 5 gallon cans for your snowblower.
3. Run the engine until the carburetors are dry and the engine runs out of fuel and stops. This is especially important with cars where you burn ethanol.
4. Remove battery, charge it fully and take inside a heated garage or in your house.
5. Don’t worry about it. Take a couple of gallons of new gas and a freshly charged battery down when ready, and she’ll start right up.
Royal2014-12-13 21:28:24If you want to keep it ready to run for those unexpected but greatly appreciated semi nice days throughout the winter then a battery maintainer along with an additive to combat the ethanol in the gas tank should suffice.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I’ll stick with my recommendation above. However, if you are simply going to put in an additive, you may want to use one of the “marine grade” since our fuel systems all breathe, unlike newer engines.
See:
http://petelandrysrealgas.com/2013/02/why-marine-formula-sta-bil-should-be-your-fuel-additive-of-choice/
PMOSSBERG2014-12-14 09:11:57I use sta-ble in the gas and a trickle charger on the battery. I also try to start it once a month or so, usually there is a couple winter days almost warm enough (50*) to take short rides ( fine for me but not the wife).
Well If you lived on Oak Island N C you can ride all year.. and not bother with all this hassle …:-)
Hey y all, speaking of gasoline treatments, gas with ethanol in it, what harm does that do to our older VW engines? Should we use an additive, or try and find non ethanol?
Just a thought”…………. Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayAs I understand it If your engine as been rebuilt recently chances are you can now burn gas with corn squeezings in it . I believe my engine has been rebuilt. However I still use E10 available almost anywhere .
The engines can handle unleaded fuel without adding anything, especially since dual-ports and later have hardened valve stems and valve guides…
The problem with ethanol is that it causes many rubber and neopreme things like gas lines, seals, etc to soften and swell. Also, if parked for a long time, ethanol attracts moisture from the air — ethanol is the primary ingredient of “dry-gas” additives. This trapped water tends to form acids in the motor’s oil, and become corrosive…
Ethanol gas also will destabilize (i.e. separate), forming varnish and goop, much faster than 100% gasoline. Its shelf life is really 60 days or so…
So, for long-term storage either empty all gas or make sure the tank is full (less air = less moisture) and use an additive such as Stabil to avoid problems…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...ethanol can be harmful to any carburetor engine. Doesn’t matter if it is a rebuilt engine. Rebuilding the engine doesn’t reduce the harm ethanol can cause. Always treat your ethanol gas whether it be your TD or lawn mower, chainsaw etc. Treat all gas that will be used with a carburetor or stored for a period of time. Also keeps the gas in your gas can fresher.
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