Hood Louvers

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This topic contains 22 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  ricrx7 1 month, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
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  • #305389

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Has anyone opened up the louvers on the hood sides?  I would like to get hot air out of engine compartment.  Thanks.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #305391

    elmo
    Participant

    @elmo

    If you do send a photo and a description on how you cut it. I have real trouble with engine heat.

    I put in a 4 core rad and electric fan and still gets hot.

    #305392

    tetowle
    Participant

    @tetowle

    My new chevette powered manual transmission gets up to 215-220 and stays there.  The stock thermostat is 195.  I am going to flush the system and install a 160 thermostat this week.

    There is no reason you can’t add original side panels off a real td if you are good at making things look good and fit.  The kit hood sides go down and bolt below the fenders and frame.  Not necessarily needed.  Buy original sides, use a marker and mark the areas the fiberglass sides show, then cut out the inside glass on the sides, and install the louvered hood on top of the side panel and use fender welt to hide the sides.

    #305398

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Original side panels would be a great solution.  But my BCW hood is 3 inches longer than an original.  I think I can use a router to cut the openings in the side panels.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #305511

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    My engine would overheat just sitting in the driveway running (with hood on).  I believe it was a weak pusher fan that just could not handle the heat.  So I got a Spal puller fan, changed to 160 degree thermostat, and added an oil cooler.  The car now runs at about 165-170 sitting in the driveway. with the hood off.  Due to some medical issues and the fact I had pulled the heater and had holes in the firewall, I have not driven on the street.  I will try driving with and without hood to see if vents are really necessary.  Besides contemplating opening up the side vents, I might add vents on the top hood.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #305520

    tetowle
    Participant

    @tetowle

    do you have a part Id for the oil cooler and fan?

    #305531

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Oil cooler was one I have had for about 30 years.  It measures 15″x8″.  It may be Moroso.  Fan is Spal 11 inch medium profile pull style cooling fan, VA26-AP50CWP-44A (item 30101512)

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #305667

    vilardi
    Participant

    @vilardi

    Hey Ricrx7,

    My ’52 BCW TD is a factory build and has the louvres open.  They were routed – probably during assembly.  I have not had heat issues.

    I have an original TD Hood top and placed it on top of the BCW hood in comparison.  The BCW hood is about 2 inches longer – so original sides and tops won’t work unless you move the grill back a bit.  I think it was made longer to accomodate the steering for the VW variant and it was just cheaper to keep the panels the same length on both.

    Tom

     

    Tom Vilardi
    BCW Model 52
    South Orange NJ

    #305669

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    I just finished routing the driver’s side hood.  See my post in the project section.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #306199

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    While waiting for the fabricator to punch louvers into aluminum sheets that I plan on grafting into the sides, I decided to cut out the fake louvers. Why not? They’re going to be cut up anyway.

    I started using a vibrating saw to cut all the vertical lines.

    The, using a Dremel I shaped the tips and used a grinder to smooth out the spacing.

    I ended up with this. I think they came out a lot better than I expected. I’m half tempted to cancel the aluminum louvers.

    Any thoughts?

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #306200

    edsnova
    Participant

    @edsnova

    I’d say you got it done.

    #306201

    royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Bill, it certainly looks a lot better than I expected also.  I think that i agree with Ed – you got ‘er done.  Smile, be happy.

    #306202

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    bodyhood

    Save the money.  The louvers look fine.  Maybe consider adding aluminum louvers to top of hood.

     

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #306203

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

     

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #306204

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Yours looks good. Metal hood or louvered sheet grafted in?

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #306205

    elmo
    Participant

    @elmo

    Billnparts. Your louvers look fantastic. Any more detail on how you cut them?  Want to do a red set?

    Cheers

    #306206

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Original 1952 MGTD with punched louvers in metal hood.  Posted so you could get an idea of what louvers would look like on top of hood.  I had considered grafting metal louvers into my replica fiberglass hood.  But I would be glad to have you do it first and let us see how well it turns out.

    I used a router and guides to cut out the louvers in my fiberglass hood sides.  It worked well.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #306207

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

     

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #306208

    elmo
    Participant

    @elmo

    Any chance you have a photo of the guides you used or the router bit?  I have a router just haven’t used it much.

    #306209

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Except for taping off the limits for top and bottom, mine were done freehand. Just took out what looked right.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #306210

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Guides were just two straight edges held by clamps.  Router edges follow the guides.  I used a straight router.  First I used just one guide, but I found that I would move away from guide at times.  So needed two guides to stay straight.  Just remembered.  I drilled holes at either end of louver first, then placed router bit in top hole and set guides, then moved router down louver to lower hole.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #306211

    elmo
    Participant

    @elmo

    Justvto be clear you worked from the outside of the panel? Do you tape it off so it doesn’t scratch the paint? Was it a special router bit or just a standard straight one?

    Thanks.

    #306212

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Just a straight bit 1/4 inch.  I think the secret was to drill 1/4 inch holes at the top and bottom.  Drilling first allows you to keep the holes at the same height so louvers will all be same height.  Place the router and bit in the top and bottom holes to set the guide.  I did not use tape because the tape would make it hard to see if you have the router in the groove.  Also, my car is black.  It is easy to spray the cut edges with gloss black to match the car.  I sprayed from the back.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

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