I'm Gonna do a V8.

Home Forums MGTD Kit Cars Chevy/Ford Kits I'm Gonna do a V8.

This topic contains 59 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  edsnova 4 hours, 1 minute ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 51 through 60 (of 60 total)
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  • #304623

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    A little more progress. Three steps forward, two steps back.

    I began installing the pulley kit and alternator bracket kits I bought months ago. I found out that they were incompatible.

    I’ll never keep a belt on these pulleys.

    Back on the internet. I found an outfit that supplies a complete package for alternator only with a v-belt.

    Even then it didn’t place the alternator where I wanted it. I ended up combining components of all the kits I had and still ended up fabricating an additional lever for the adjustment.

    This is as tight as I can get it. Hopefully, the side panel will clear. If not, we’ll have to copy the bubble on the left side panel.

    Now the starter is another story. I brought a starter home that was way too large for the space I had. A second one was smaller and was so-o-o close. After removing the right side header a half dozen times, I finally gave up trying to make it fit and ordered a compact unit. That should be here Tuesday.

    I still have to reinstall the steering column and hook up the new steering shafts. Once everything is colpleted in this area, we can move on to the radiator install. I’ll need to find hoses and make brackets for the cooling fan.

     

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #304624

    edsnova
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Yup: it’s all so quick and easy.

    This is fun, right?

    Here’s me spending 50+ hours making a pedal set. Now all I’ve got to do is cut the whole thing out and weld it back in two inches to the left.

    #304625

    happyjack
    Participant

    @happyjack

    Hey Bill,

    That engine compartment is going to look so awesome that you may want to put plexiglass windows in the hood and floodlights in the engine bay so everyone can admire it…….that would keep you from wearing out the hood hinges opening and closing the hood to show off the “guts and Glory” of the TDr…!!!

     

    Looking forward to seeing the car at Carlisle — just made my hotel reservation and still have to do the rest….Like Ed, I;m not sure which car is coming to the show — I’m not as far along as I had hoped to be with the Ford TDr…still wrestling with fitting the fenders, cowl and the rest…..we shall see….plus I’ll have to make sure the Ford will fit on my trailer since it is not set up for flat towing like my VW-based one is…time will tell……

    …then again, I could bring the Bugeye and convince Roy to come to the show and bring the Mini — since I know I can trailer the Bugeye and Roy is already set up to flat tow the Mini….so many cars, so many choices — life is good!!

    Again Bill,  LOOKS GREAT!!

    Happy Jack

    #304628

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Jack, there is a thread in here of the building of my tow bar setup. Complete with pictures.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #304629

    happyjack
    Participant

    @happyjack

    Hey Bill,

     

    I found the post (Oct 3, 2015) but the links to the various pictures don’t work…???

    I assume that you remove the bumper at the chassis and bolt on your tow bar adapter???

    …but then again, if I don’t get busy I’ll still be working on bolting fiberglass panels on come May…..

     

     

     

     

    #304636

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Are you using a shallow oil pan?  What is the distance to the ground from your oil pan?  I am trying not to go below the frame cross member at the front, but that puts my engine fairly high with a standard oil pan.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #304637

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Ballparking it with the car up on stands, the bottom of the oil pan appears to be level with the front cross member. The cross member ran with 4-1/2″ of clearance.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #304640

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    That looks about where mine is also.  Just as a double check, the bottom of my front pulley is 3 1/2 inches above the front cross member.  It looks too high, but if I lower it, the pan goes close to the ground.  Oh, it is a GM 60 degree V6.  Guess you are watching Daytona.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #304645

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    I had to work yesterday so I only had today to get any work done. I got the temp and oil senders installed and finished their wiring. Finished the wiring on the distributor. I had to overhaul the upper steering column as the key release didn’t want to work. Don’t know what it was, but after I took it all apart and reassembled it, it worked. I put some intermediate shafts in and wound up an inch short at the rack. Easy fix. I know someone with a shaft stretcher. Got the radiator installed. I’ll see what excess room I can add after the fan and oil cooler is in place. There might be some room in the grille shell.

     

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #304646

    edsnova
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Man, that’s tight.

    I do like that the whole engine is behind the front axles.

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