Looking for Advice…

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This topic contains 15 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  heymoe 2 months, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
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  • #305401

    cruise
    Participant

    @cruise

    Where can I find an MG plaque to cover the (radio) hole on the dash of an MG TD similar to the one pictured behind the black lab at the top of the page on this site? I have another dash I want to install in my car and the radio hole is very small. I don’t want to butcher it like I did the old dash to install my inexpensive, after-market AM/FM/CD player. I plan on mounting my radio someplace else, like maybe under the front of the seat. But, I want to cover the hole in the dash with something classy.

    Also, how can I get the sending unit in the fuel tank to accurately reflect full and empty on the fuel gauge?
    Thanks!

    Bob

    #305402

    mfederici
    Participant

    @mfederici

    Bob,

    Try this Moss Motors hyperlink – https://mossmotors.com/radio-blanking-plate-set?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5NnbBRDaARIsAJP-YR8yZc5LGt1Ck4F-GZ-RUrmv9cwYO-FoBlGLCXvDUNEAx9SwPYgv9qQaAuxsEALw_wcB

    This MG radio dash board cover plate assembly, to me, looks almost identical to the one in the home page photo.

    I’ll also keep an eye on future comments here, re. your fuel tank sending unit question; this issue has been a concern of mine for years…..

    Best, Michael F.

    #305404

    toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Bob
    Assuming the fuel sender and gauge functioned properly in the past then the ohm ratings for both are in synch. Ie 0-90, where 0 is empty and 90 is full
    If there is no indication of fuel on the gauge then check that the wire from the sender is connected to the correct tab on the gauge. Usually there is three, four or five tabs on the gauge. A + and – for the gauge light. A + and – for the gauge and a – for the sender Sometimes the + and – are bridged, only one that will not be jumpered will be dedicated wire from sender.
    To test the sender you will need to know how to use a VOM First test is to test continuity between ground and tab on sender. If there is fuel in the tank the VOM should not show a dead short. If you get nothing the rheostat in the sender may be defective. Pull the sender out of the tank. Typical senders are either tube style or float arm. If the former the resistance wire may be broken and unless it is just a broken solder condition only option will be to replace it. I could not find a nichrome wire with the correct resistance value which is why I had to replace my tube style sender.
    If you have a float arm style contact your VOM to the sender tab and clip the other wire to the cover plate or if so equipped the other tab. With VOM connected and set to reading ohms move the float arm to determine if the rheostst is working. If you see no change in the reading then sender may be defective and have to be replaced. If you do get a reading you can try bending the arm on the float to change the sweep of the arm to try and get a more accurate reading on the gauge

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #305414

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Yes, just bend the float arm.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #305419

    secretagentcat
    Participant

    @secretagentcat

    See…All you Smarty Pants need to thank me for holding down the other end of the Bell Curve so you could enjoy all that Academic Success! I’m a Giver…Lol!

    It amazes me with the amount of Smarts that exist on this Site! Without them, I’d just be sticking my finger in the tank to see if there’s still Gas! I so appreciate all the advice we get from these Guys and Gals in the know!

    I’m getting there…My wife tells me that I’ve got Brains That I haven’t even used yet, so I’m hopeful with all that untapped potential!!! Maybe someday I’ll learn what an Ohm really is…I thought it was something you chanted during Yoga…

    Village Idiot…

    #305420

    cruise
    Participant

    @cruise

    Thank you Michael. That looks perfect!

    Bob

    #305452

    mfederici
    Participant

    @mfederici

    Great Bob; glad to be of some help.  Once you’ve completed your dash board hole project, please post a photo of it here.  Insofar as an alternative stereo location is concerned, I located mine in the driver’s seat box.  It works great there; you just need to acclimate yourself to ‘blind dialing and tuning’, etc., otherwise it’s worked out well…Mike

    #305453

    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    If you get a stereo with a remote control, you can put it anywhere.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #305455

    mfederici
    Participant

    @mfederici

    great tip; must look into this option then – thanks

    #305459

    heymoe
    Participant

    @heymoe

    I plan on mounting my radio someplace else, like maybe under the front of the seat.

    Bob-

    Not sure this is an option for you, but I purchased a bluetooth amplifier on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JJNSLX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so I can run music off of my phone (downloaded, spotify etc). I have this hard wired in to my fuse cluster and placed between my seats.  If I want to restore the interior to a clean “no modern stuff” appearance, I unplug the power cord, un hook the speakers and tuck the wires under the seats. takes me about 1 minute to be back up and running.

    VW based CMC 52 TDr “Miss Gertrude” AKA “Gerty”

    #305461

    happyjack
    Participant

    @happyjack

    Great idea — I ordered one of these Bluetooth amps to add to the center console that I am building for ManyPenny.

    My Ford-based TDr seems to have room in front of the shifter for fire extinguisher, cup holder, heated seat switches, and this AMP — I hope.  So your post about this little amp is timely.

    By the way,  thanks Billnparts for suggesting that I add the seat heaters while I was building the seats for this kit…definately the time to do it if I was going to add heated seats…)

    Happy Jack

    #305462

    heymoe
    Participant

    @heymoe

    HappyJack,

    After this morning’s drive in (no top on the car and 42 when I left my house) do you have any info on heated seats?  I might see if I can retrofit them.

    VW based CMC 52 TDr “Miss Gertrude” AKA “Gerty”

    #305463

    toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Bill had recommended this product available from Amazon when I was recovering my seats. Easy to install and work well. I did my own wiring and switch to match the other switches I have
    Dorman Part# 628-040

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #305464

    happyjack
    Participant

    @happyjack

    I got mine from eBay for around $75.00 with shipping included…something like this:

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-seats-install-Universal-2-dial-5-level-seat-heater-kit-heated-seat-kit-/151119425748?hash=item232f6b70d4

    Mine came with 2 each  5-level controls (left and right).  This one on the eBay link has a single switch body with 2 sections (left and right).  They also come with just low/off/high round switches.  w

    Have FUN

    Happy Jack

    #305465

    ricrx7
    Participant

    @ricrx7

    Heated seats???  I want air conditioning.

    1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
    1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)

    #305468

    heymoe
    Participant

    @heymoe

    Heated seats??? I want air conditioning.

    This time of year in Vermont, morning commutes can get a wee bit chilly with the top off.

    VW based CMC 52 TDr “Miss Gertrude” AKA “Gerty”

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