Home › Forums › MGTD Kit Cars › VW Based Kits › MiGi on a lift
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July 31, 2013 at 9:50 am #234821AnonymousInactive
Hi, Where are the 4 points to put the arms for getting the MiGi up on a lift? My mechanic and I are not sure where to put them. Looks flimsy under there. Having ball joints and tie rods done. Thanks, Dennis P
July 31, 2013 at 10:36 am #257145Put the pads for the rear lift arms on the floorpan brackets for the factory jack points. Closer in to the center, is better, rather than on the outside.
Put the pads for the front lift arms under the pan, near the center tunnel at the front. Put one under the master cylinder, and space the other front one about the same distance from the center.KentT2013-07-31 10:36:42
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...July 31, 2013 at 12:16 pm #257146The answer will depend on VW vs. Chevy/Ford with a full chassis
For VW’s, I have had a different experience than Kent.When you remove the steel body, you remove a lot of the strength around the stock jacking points. All you have left is the upside down U channel around the perimeter of the stamped steel floor panels. Put a floor jack under the stock jack point and start lifting…I bet you will see a lot of deflection before the car starts to rise.I always use the rear torsion tubes, or the bottom of the swing arm (near the wheel hub) as the main lift points.For the front, I agree with Kent, as long as you are ahead of the front “bulkhead.” You could also use the front torsion tubes, just watch out for the grease fittings.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
July 31, 2013 at 12:31 pm #257147Paul, I’ve been jacking mine with a floor jack as I described, without issues. I can see that using the torsion tubes, front and rear, would be the most solid.
But jacking the rear using the torsion tube, can be a challenge — or at least with my small floor jack it seems to be…. I routinely jack the entire front up from the center of the front, lower torsion bar.Personally, I don’t like to use any point that “springs” unless I have a specific need to, such as jacking the suspension up to install shock bolts.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...July 31, 2013 at 3:17 pm #257148I use the torsion tube in front–can lift both wheels easily if I’m near the middle. In back I use either the torsion tube housing or the square tube subframe from the kit. If I’m in the middle of that the whole back of the car comes up pretty easy.
Word to the mechanic: whatever you lift it with, be damn careful in removing any of the front suspension. Years ago I just missed a co-worker drop a Bug off the lift. He pulled the front beam and that unbalanced it enough that the thing toppled backwards five-six feet onto the concrete floor. Our cars are (for the most part) much lighter than a Bug in front–so the potential problem could be worse.
Get those rear lift points back as far as possible–at least to the torsion housing. And–just for paranoia’s sake–strap the front down to one of the front lift bars with a tie-down or chain.
July 31, 2013 at 10:06 pm #257149That there is good advice Ed!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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