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Hey Ed, if the heater bypasses the thermostat, hooking it up and on full “hot”, may get things flowing and burp the baby. ???
Roy, I bet Ed wishes we all were closer. Between all of us we could get a real “Rube-Goldberg” system going. Lets see in BEER time estimate between 18 and 24 beers, right.
Roy: It’s always on “full hot.” There is no valve in the heater core on a Suby, and not on my aftermarket core either.
I think I’m going to wait for bleed screws and try again when they come.By the way, the idea to drill a small hole in the thermostat was brilliant. It was such a good idea, in fact, that it was already done by the factory. They hang a little rivet in the hole too, the idea being that only air will go though, coolant pressure tends to close it up.Montie: In this case it will be a Soob Goldberg contraption.It already is.All: I’ve been buttoning up all the little stuff I’d planned to do after I got the water jacket figured out. Yesterday I made some brackets to hold my air intake in place nice and neat. I put some split lom on some of the engine bay wires, and re-routed some others (I’ve not completed the whole thing yet but am getting close. I think I’ll save the zipties until the last minute, lest I have to pull the bugger for head gaskets or something).I cut a square out for the front passenger well to make room for my heater. I Also rigged up a new shaft for the go roller; need to off-set it about an inch to the left to give the heater room. I stil need to make brackets to hold the heater and a new “inner box” to take the place of the hole I just made.Also tested the heater electrics (all’s good), re-routed the wires inside it and put grommets ’round the exit pipes–just cuz I had them.And so-on. Riveted a bunch of plates and stuff I had previously put in loose. Took out more carpet.I still need to get working on my secondary fan shroud–this aluminum slope thing I hope will direct the fan air down and out of the front compartment, and seal off the part of it I hope still to use for side curtain and other storage.Bottom line: there is still so much to do to get this car road-worthy that I will easily be able to fill my time awaiting the bleeder screws and what-not.Fingers crossed that those do the trick–and that the trouble I’ve had so far is not indicative of the need for a tear-down.I know I’ll get ‘er done, and really the delay won’t add up to much of a delay.Ed,You’ve been running the engine with not much water in parts of it. Heat is hard on oil. Have you considered changing it before you run down the road?Bleeder valves at the high spots may sound Rube Goldberg. But you’ve engineered a cooling system in a chassis that wasn’t designed for one. You have high spots with air in them that the water pump can’t push out. You could lift the nose and shoot a hose through the pipes until you wash out the airlocks. But where would that leave you if the system sprang a leak on the road? Borrowing a hose, a comealong and a big tree? People would pay to watch that. The bleeders will enable you to fill the system and bleed the high spots before you turn the key.Subaru uses at least one bleeder in their factory cooling system. If they couldn’t build a cooling system without bleeders why should you expect to? You just have four more.BDriverYeah, BD, the oil in it now is “re-break-in” oil. The engine had sat a while and it’s clear the last oil change before I got to her was a while back. Plan was always to change it pretty soon after I get her road-able. Filter too, just because.
http://www.toolweb.com/products/MITMV4535
This is the tool I mentioned to evac the trapped air.
PMOSSBERG2014-07-07 09:44:10Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Well I’ll be. I’d never have thought of such a thing.
Looks like it’s about the same cost as my five bleeders. Maybe a smidge more. Hard to tell if it’s easier or harder though.I guess it would be easier to use the first time than it will be for me to install five bleeders. But once the bleeders are in, seems like using those on refills will be easier than hooking this thing up every time.Maybe not though. Wish I’d known about it on Saturday morning. Or last Saturday.Looks too like the one thing is incompatible with the other: open bleeders would defeat the tool.Hey, Richard: I put a Subaru in it.
It runs, but I can’t get her to open the thermostat. Apparently air in the system despite the rad cap being well above any other point in the cooling system.What I’ve done is try three times to get it to fill and run. And three times it’s puked out a whole bunch of water/antifreeze from the high side into and through the rad and overflow bottle. The coolant glugs up through the filler if the cap is off. If the cap is on she gushes into the overflow until that’s full and then pisses out the little weep hole in the top of that.At no time is the coolant doing this any more than warm.But the engine is getting very hot.Bleeders came today. Five of ’em. I’ll try to install them all this weekend.Installed five bleeders and refilled the coolant, including a half a bottle of Stop Leak.
This time the motor ran and idled nicely while the temp gauge slowly climbed to 212F. I kept waiting for the fan to come on and it never did. Finally I shorted out the relay to make the fan spin and the temp dropped right away back down to like 200.So proof of concept. I’m back to fiddling with the wires. The ECU should be telling the fan to come on right in the210F neighborhood, I think. So it could be I did not wait long enough.I have the heater in about where it should be, I had to mod my gas pedal/roller to fit that.The volts gauge is back to sitting at about 11. So there is an issue there.Keep blowing this one fuse. I think it’s to do with the metal mechanical water/oil gauge lines shorting other gauge wire stuff but need to check.Gotta hook up about six engine monitor wires.Gotta hook up the speed sensor.Need to do a lot of rebuild-refit in the interior–all the carpets, etc. I need to make a new box for the air intake–something that will look like a real TD’s side curtain box.Fair amount of insulation needs replacement.Back body panels (“gas tank,” etc.) need to be re-fitted.Still have to make my secondary fan shroud to isolate the incoming radiator air from the front “trunk” area.Seats need to go back in.Then we might just be cruising again.edsnova2014-07-19 20:51:55
Excellant… Progress ????
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Good to hear Ed. I wonder if I could set up a drag race between you and HappyJack with his 2332cc SuperTD down one of the runways at the Auto & Air Show in October? If you’re game, I’ll see about organizing it.
If nothing else, you guys could square off: both with windshields down, aviation caps and goggles in place. All we’d need would be a flagman (for a starter). We could get a sepia toned calendar shot that would live forever. I would suggest that all TDr’s in attendance be sworn to secrecy as to who won.What about the rest of us?Why not put numbers on the doors, tape on the headlights and set up a corner at Lime Rock in the 50s?Then everyone could be in the picture.They wouldn’t have to race. It would just look like a race.If there’s a lot of concrete set the corner with traffic cones and call it Sebring.Bring helmets and coveralls.The Porsche replica guys would want their picture too.That could be a busy set.The runway at the VA Beach show is grass.
You’ll need to rethink.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I like it. I don’t think Bridget’s (purported) 135 horses would stand much chance against Jack’s 200 though.
So she’s still fighting me. I figured out the problem from yesterday was the same 16 amp fuse that keeps blowing, so i replaced it and had power where it needed to be to run the fan. Ran it up to temp three times but could not get the fan to set off. First time at 212F I found the relay vibrating like it was trying to do something.I swapped it out for a different one and still no go.So I tried a re-wire to a positive switch but that was wrong too. So I put it back right (negative switch) and was going to try again but the engine was running rough–missing on one cylinder, I think.Volts meter been reading low–like 11–since the engine’s been in. I put a trickle charger on it.Started work on my aluminum fan shroud in the mean time.I know I’m going to get this but she’s not making it easy.Check engine light works. Amp/Alt light works and the charging system seems to be functional.
Love to see you, Dale.
Just drove her for the first time since last fall. Took her a mile to the gas station and back.Holysh*t!Second gear right now in this car feels much scarier than 2nd in the Nova with the mild 350.And I am also pretty sure I can’t get full throttle yet.Gonna have to futz with the shifter some. Missed second a few times and first more than that. Stalled the car twice by mistaking third for first. Second time (after running her up a bit in second) she did not want to start back up.Got home and saw a spot of oil under the crank pully. I think I should have replaced that seal.Also smoke. Gonna need the same kind of insulation you used on your rear splash pan to keep the muffler from burning it.The interior is still a mess and the wires aren’t really done.I still don’t have a proper fan shroud. And I did not yet connect the VSS (vehicle spped sensor) to make my “Wheel o’ Death” tell the computer the things it wants to know.Still.I drove it today.We have achieved Scooby.
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