Soob swap

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Viewing 25 posts - 151 through 175 (of 341 total)
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  • #258166
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    I feel your pain Ed. Just hang in there. You’ll….git er done! Thumbs Up

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #258167
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Shift rod got fixed. I installed it and can dry-shift all four gears and reverse (I think).

    Also added some copper to my oil fill. I think that’s licked too.
    So, progress.
    #258168
    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Way to go, Ed. Thumbs Up

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #258169
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    Great job Ed. Knew you could do it. Keep up the exemplary work. Thumbs Up

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #258170
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    47 days to Carlisle….

    Plenty o’ time!

    Congrats on the progress Ed!

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #258171
    Gabor Kesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    There’s nothing like a good old hardware store solution. Getting soooo close.

    #258172
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    if I weren’t stuck indoors doing taxes and work . . .

    Anyway. Checked on the epoxy this a.m. & it looks like it’ll hold well enough for now.

    #258173
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Wires. There are many, many wires.

    Shiels has been very helpful.
     
    #258174
    Dale Schumacher
    Participant

    @schu

    Ed,
    Keep at it – it will be worth it – one month plus – you can do it!

    #258175
    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Man, all that spaghetti. Have you considered becoming a Pastafarian?

    If the wires are all that’s left, you’re almost done. Good going.????

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #258176
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Actually, I have been a pastafarian for many years. I was Touched by His Noodly Appendage.

    So here is what’s left to do:
    1. get the wire harness cut out and packed off to Shiels. (Should have that done today)
    2. find and buy a suitable fuel pump.
    3. salvage fuel lines from the Soob (or buy them). Fit them where they need to go (I think passenger channel). Get righteous connectors/clamps etc for soft lines. (Anyone with advice on this? Chime in.)
    4. Mock up coolant lines using PVC. Need to cut holes in the floor pan for this, also an access port under the front fender. (I will explain all in a future post)
    5. Finish radiator and fan mods, plus mounts for same, and fan shroud, and mounts for that.
    6. Weld up holes in tunnel
    7. fill trans with oil, adjust clutch cable to the new trans position.
    8. reinstall engine, mock-up/figure out air intake puzzle. (I may need to buy & install some different stuff to reorient the throttle body, etc.)
    9. make/buy throttle cable & linkage. Install same so throttle body works right.
    10. set up coolant lines from engine to hard lines under chassis. Also make sure oil filler is (finally) right.
    11. get muffler guy to make coolant lines, exhaust, and do final welds on front trans mount.
    12. Set up coolant system with bleeder(s). Rig oil and temp gauges. Install fuel lines to engine.
    13. Pay Shiels. Install wiring.
    14. Fill engine with oil. Fill radiator & etc.
    15. modify gas tank for fuel injection & new fuel pump. Install gas tank; connect fuel lines to that.
    16. Test start. 
    17. Fix all the stuff that’s wrong on startup. Burp coolant system. Top off.
    18. Tuck in wires; reassemble interior.
    19. Shakedown drive.
    20. Fix whatever is still wrong. 
    21. (optional) Install disk brakes in front, mod suspension….
    I don’t see this happening in fewer than six weekends. I’d love to take a week off of work to get more done, but that’s probably not going to be possible. So it looks like a best-case scenario for this job’s completion is late May–two weeks post Carlisle.

    #258177
    Montie Henderson
    Participant

    @montie

    My list is lots shorter, finished making tow bar today.  Ed, how do you get pictures to post?  It’s been a few months since I could get one on here. 

    #258178
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Same as always, Montie. Start with the “post reply” button at the top of the thread, click the tree icon and upload the picture–making sure the thing you’re uploading is less than 500mb.

    Got my wires boxed up and ready to go to Shiels for sorting and testing. He’s a hell of a nice guy, if you ever need the service.
    So there’s one thing down, 19 to go.

    #258179
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    The last major decisions on this project involve fuel delivery. I’d like y’all to help me think about this.

    To recap, the Soob needs 35-lbs of fuel pressure at the injector rail. It’s a three-line return system that terminates in an in-tank fuel pump/swirl pot system in a two-bay tank (with a second internal pump to balance the fuel between each side) that apparently is unique in the automotive kingdom.
    No one pulls the Suby tank or its internals for use in a VW swap.
    The elements required are simple. I need
    1. A fuel pump capable of maintaining the requisite 40-60 psi.
    2. A system by which excess fuel is returned to the tank and the existing charcoal-can/internal rebreather is plumbed back in. 
    And I also believe I will need
    3. A swirl tank so that I don’t starve the pump or cylinders under hard cornering during the inevitable auto-x contests.
    To get all this I’ve narrowed it down to two options. 
    Option 1 costs $440 and is basically a drop-in solution. The Aeromotive 200 would fairly well replicate what the Suby has from the factory, and offer a clean setup with minimal fabrication and hassle. The downsides:
    a. It is a new product & not well tested, to my knowledge
    b. it cost $440. Plus AN fittings
    Option 2 costs about $115 and has been the choice of some other swappers. The Bosch 69100 serves in millions of Ford F-150s, vans & etc. And the 1987 Fox fuel expansion tank, though not currently in stock, is a cheap and compact thing that could be plumbed just below the stock fuel tank for gravity feed. If I can’t score one of these I could still make–or have someone make–something at least as good out of a piece of exhaust pipe and some barbed fittings.  The downsides
    a. backorder or fabrication required
    b. external mounting requires room and may be slightly less safe in the event of a crash.
    Right now I’m torn. Today I’m pulling the fuel lines from the Suby, getting some cutters, a bender and maybe a flare tool to set the lines up in Bridget. Soon I’ll have to order the final bits. I welcome your sage advice, questions and thoughts about other options.
    #258180
    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Old Chrysler’s used an inline fuel filter that had a return line.
    NAPA number 3054. Sorry, can’t get a photo to post.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #258181
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    Ed. Just for you. A Soob in a 69 Beetle!

     
    P4120138

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #258182
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    I believe that’s a four-cam model. Hence the cutouts. Very cool.

    Some auto-x attitude.

    edsnova2014-04-12 22:43:45

    #258183
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    More photos of Bug-Paluza 16 at: http://www.fotki.com/Allen1209

     
    Go to 2014 car shows and enjoy!

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #258184
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    OK, don’t laugh at my fuel system just because I’m using a water bottle as a key component.

    If it doesn’t work I’ll have Mike the muffler guy weld me up something manlier. 

    #258185
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    “Coke mule….” That’s hysterical!

     

    I love the creativity and fabrication! Two questions about the swirl tank.

     

    I know fuel injection systems get their fuel at fairly high pressures. Will your water bottle swirl tank be under pressure? If so (and I’m sure you thought of this), you shoudl pressure test the bottle.

     

    Second, is the plastic cap on the water bottle resistant to gasoline? Same question for whatever material is used in the gasket on the cap.

     

    This is awesome work Ed!

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #258186
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Thanks, Paul. To your questions:

    1. No. (That’s why it’s vented back to the air space at the top of the fuel tank, which is in-turn vented to the atmosphere. 
    2. Don’t know. I suppose it would have been smarter to test the cap (and 0-ring) before doing this fab, but I was having too much fun chuckling to myself about the project. So That test comes next. I’ll fill it up this a.m. and let it sit for a week like that over an oil change pan.
    3. also, re pressure: I plan to fill it full and seal it tight. I’ll leave it where it will get a little warm in order to simulate what sometimes happens in a regular gas tank. 
    I’m ready for it to not work & will report back either way.
    Now the hard part of arranging the parts in the box so the lines run as straight as possible. I hope to get that all squared away during evening sessions this week. Wish me the luck.
    #258187
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    Great work and ideas whether it works or not.

     
    If it works, you created a market!
     
    I’m putting all my stainless/uninsulated water bottles up on ebay as fuel tank and radiator overflow bottles!
     
    Retirement…here I come! 😎 Or not. 🙁
     

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #258188
    Gabor Kesseru
    Participant

    @gkesseru

    Now where have I seen this before? Oh yeah, it’s on my Alfred…

    #258189
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Fire extinguisher, right?

    Mine’s holding up OK so far. Had some weeping past the bolts I used to plug the ends of the hoses. Turns out bolts have threads.Embarrassed
    Anyway, seems a little gas and swelling has put a stop to that. No leaks at or near the epoxy joints. No sign of deterioration of the plastic.
    #258190
    Royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Ed, 

    Ethanol scares me with regard to compatibility with other materials, especially plastics.  It does its damage in very insidious ways and takes time to spring its dangerous leaks.  I have direct personal experience.  (An older Boston Whaler onboard fuel tanks were fiberglass.  Plus I once converted a diesel VW to gas.  Both resulted in “on the road” leaks with no hints beforehand.)   I wish the best with your experiment.  

    Should you decide that you want to go a different direction, rather than calling Mike (the Muffler Guy), you might want to use large diameter copper pipe with copper caps and keep it a safe DIY project.  Drill and tap the caps and even solder the fittings and of course, the caps for extra security.  
    The big pipe that I am talking about would have to be purchased from a plumbing supply place, not Lowes or Home Depot. 
Viewing 25 posts - 151 through 175 (of 341 total)
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