April 17, 2018 at 9:07 pm #304883
For the record, Roy’s recollection is right: TDs (and TFs and TCs, etc.) had plywood floors. The chassis was steel—it looked like C channel but was actually a rectangular tube that was relieved on its inboard sides. The body panels were framed internally with ash wood—that’s the “wood frame” people talk about and it is hard to repair if it rots, because you have to peel off the sheet metal, then build the framing to very precise tolerances, then replace the sheet metal without using any serious heat (which could burn the wood). So its cold-hammer, by hand, slowly and carefully. Just a joy if that’s the kind of thing that brings you joy. Not so much if you like actually driving the car….April 25, 2018 at 2:08 pm #304914
Fiberglass work SUCKS!!
Well, I recently learned where my talents DO NOT lie — I HATE FIBERGLASS WORK!!!!!
…But it was finally time to get the firewall sealed up so that I could get on with putting the rest of the car together and also get the wiring finished and the dash installed. But what a royal pain in the butt…..
And even though Roy came over to provide a Tech Assist and moral support, it was still some of the worst, sloppiest, hardest stuff I have ever done on the car…..or in my life, for that matter…….
Luckily the sound dampening mat that I ordered form Amazon will cover up the dregs and overspill of fiberglass so only you all will know what lies under the shiny mat under the carpet!!
…But then again, it may not be as bad as I am making it out to be. It certainly is well sealed and seems pretty strong — just not pretty to look at.
So now it just needs to have a couple of thin spots re-glassed, some caulking to be added under the battery box, and then I’ll call this part of the project “done and good riddance.”
Ed, I’m REALLY envious of the work you did on your fender widening fiberglass project…Lots of Kudos to you for that work….
Now on to getting the rest of the car put together
“Happy to NOT be doing fiberglass work ever again once this car is finished being glassed” JackApril 25, 2018 at 5:38 pm #304916
Jack, now would be the time to consider opening up the horizontal portion of your cowl above the pedal assembly. If you would ever need to get to your stop light switch or pedal bushings, whatever, it will beat laying on your back through the door opening working blind by feel. (Can you tell I’ve been there?)
Looking good though. Keep it up.
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"April 25, 2018 at 8:40 pm #304918
I dunno, Jack; that all looks pretty good to me. Enjoy the rest of the build!July 14, 2018 at 7:45 am #305183
Well it has been 2 months since the last update — this car has provided lots of opportunities to test my resolve and help me learn to curb my bad habit of cussin’ like a sailor when things go awry.
So for the bad: Doors don’t fit flat against the body; inside of the doors were cut out by one of the previous owners so now the door latch assembly lacks a back hole mounting place; hood was mis-cut and had to be jimmied to fit the car body; sides were mis-cut and had to be re-trimmed to fit; front fenders were mis-trimmed and had to be adjusted; top bow mounts interfere with the seat back; engine won’t idle below 2500 RPM; fuel gauge does not work; fog lights light up the bumper instead of the road; windshield “mysteriously” cracked one night when no one was watching; shifter slams against the driver’s seat bottom — needs to be bent a bit to clear the seat when going into reverse; radiator had to be mounted at an angle to clear the side panels; firewall panel was mis-cut and had to be patched to close up big holes left after mounting the firewall panel; engine location interfered with heater assembly making running the heater hoses a problem….
Fixing/dealing with these issues and whatever else I forgot to mention kind of filled up the past few months. But except for the idle problem (maybe a vacuum leak is what Royal suggested??) and getting the car titled, registered and insured, and fiddling with getting the doors to latch, I’m ready for an around the block test drive…..
Hopefully any “driving” issues that crop up will be minor.
Lessons learned: Buying a 40 year old unassembled and un-inventoried kit car seemed like a good idea at the time — maybe was a good idea but I sure underestimated time, effort and $$ needed to get Manypenny on the road!!
Here’s some progress pictures:
So it’s on to more fun today, and tomorrow, and…..Monday I’ll go to DMV and start the titling process…..then we have to figure out the fast idle problem…..
July 14, 2018 at 8:56 am #305185
- This reply was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by happyjack. Reason: typo
Are those dolphins below the electrical panel?
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)July 14, 2018 at 9:09 am #305186
Sure are — needed something to fill up the space — not to mention that I’m prod to have been qualified in Submarines when I served aboard the USS George C. Marshall SSB(N) 654 Gold Crew as a Navigation Electronics Technician– waaay baaaack in 1970 – 1975. I served a total of 10 years in the Navy — six patrols on the Marshall and 3 years teaching Advanced Sub School in New London, CT…..WOW!! that was 40-some years ago — time seems to move faster as I’m getting’ more “mature.”July 14, 2018 at 9:41 am #305192
Here’s a “newer” shot of the wiring panel — I added a baffle above the panel to hide the terminal blocks and wire bundles.
The panel has the heater blower switch, the heater valve knob, a 12 volt outlet, and a dual USB outlet — plus the Dolphins, of course!!
But I have to fess up and tell the truth — the “Dolphins on the Dash” was not original. Royal — my friend and fellow TDr owner down the road about 5 miles has GOLD Dolphins on his MIGI dash — He also served aboard submarines doing his career — small world!!
July 14, 2018 at 6:27 pm #305196
- This reply was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by happyjack.
As always, you do neat work, Jack. I wish you were closer so I could somehow rope you into wiring my Spyder.July 14, 2018 at 8:18 pm #305197
Thanks Ed — I learned about making the wiring neat and traceable after screwing up on the Bug Eye — after all the wiring was finished, I decided to remove the ammeter and install a vacuum gauge. The space under the dash was so tight and the wiring so mixed up that it took forever to figure out which wire went where and did what…
On this car — not so much of a problem. sSo now that I have to troubleshoot the fuel gauge not working, I can actually follow a wiring diagram and have labeled, color-coded wires to follow in pursuit of the culprit!!
But talk about hard work and detail above and beyond — you are Da Man!! Da Spyder Man!!
Can’t wait to see your Spyder in the flesh. Hmm — maybe we can all meet in Va Beach this October. Maybe one of our former military people (like Royal, for instance) could arrange a tour of Oceana Naval Air Station and maybe even arrange for parking on a parade field or in front of the Navy Exchange where we can show off our fine cars……who needs the Porsche club this year!!
Happy JackJuly 16, 2018 at 10:04 pm #305211
I was in sub school in 1968. Served on diesel/electric for 4 years active. Stationed 2 years in Key West and 2 years in Groton (1970 and 1971). Supply Officer and Weapons Officer.
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)July 17, 2018 at 8:24 am #305212
I first “qualified” in submarines in 1963 aboard WWII’s USS Croaker SS246. (Silver Dolphins.) Was lucky to be accepted into a college program and in ’67, after graduating University on North Carolina (by this time as an E6), attended submarine school as an officer. (Gold Dolphins.) Spent my 24 years up and down the east coast on Nuclear Submarines in many positions and at lots of different duty stations. I miss submarines, but not the Nuclear Navy (24 years was enough).July 22, 2018 at 8:33 am #305259
Almost there– only 48 items left on my to do list……not to mention getting this “untitled kit Car” titled in North Carolina.
What a process…..I had the DMV State Police Officer come out and inspect the car and tell me what I needed to do to get the car titled. Seems I need a Surety Bond for 1 1/2 times the value of the car, two statements of value from dealers, affidavits of why there is no existing title, bill of sale for the engine and transmission, etc, etc, etc….and a unique North Carolina VIN number attached to the car by the DMV Officer.
So on to getting these steps accomplished. So far, I’ve requested the NC VIN, asked the Seller for a Bill of Sale on the engine and transmission, and found a Surety Bond company. It seems that the rest will just have to percolate through the system and just needs time and patience.
In the mean time, I get to finish the door panels, find the vacuum leak, and dream about driving the car.
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