February 21, 2014 at 10:07 pm #235116
Just got a new never assembled Chevette kit. I have a left over ZZ4 350 and a 200r4. Have no suspention yet so just dreaming for now. Any forum leads on others who have done this before?February 21, 2014 at 10:33 pm #259865
Langan first off welcome to the forum. we have a couple of membersa that have installed v6 and V8 in there cars . If you go to the search at the top you can find info. on them.
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48February 21, 2014 at 11:18 pm #259866
One of our members bought a small-block powered TD a couple years ago. Had a heck of a time getting brakes to work, mainly because the engine left little room for the master cylinder & brake booster. I don’t think he drove the car much.I was left with the impression that the V8 swap was more trouble than it’s worth.If I had what you have I would consider running a four-banger or at most a 60-degree v6. And a four or five-speed. It’ll be plenny fast, and the car will be able to turn and stop too. Sell the ZZ4 or wait till you get something that needs it more.With a mild small block what you end up with is this. Very fun as long as you’re out behind the garage & no cops can see. Otherwise…?Two T-based V8 cars I like are the yellow one by Ed LaBrush–by far the most careful build I’ve seen.and Plumley’s.Oh and a period-style salt-flat rat someone was selling a couple years back. Can’t find the pic now, but it was matte black and had the whole passenger compartment pushed back about four inches. Timing plaques, steelies with no hubcaps, etc.That to me is the kind of thing you need to do to make it work–and by “work” I mean “look right and drive farther than the stop sign at the end of your block.”February 22, 2014 at 12:02 am #259867
Thanks you guys I live in Washington but work in Calif. Was not looking for a MG althougth I have driven a V8 and a Chevette one. But the buy in was so low for the kit and no one wants the old SBC in favor for the LS style, I said why not.I have a 32 Ford pickup 5.3LS, 36 ford pickup 6.0LS, Meyers Manx 1915 VW and a midengined Lotus 7 2.4 Acura all these are almost done. Guess this means as I get older I cant seam to stay on one build at a time. Untill I moved to Wa. I build a car every other year.I will build this one down here and on your advice I will look for a more current il4 or v6.I will say that in all my builds I have never seen a more overkill frame for a 60hp motor.February 22, 2014 at 9:09 am #259868
Definitely see Gabor’s build on that. He chucked it & scratch-built his frame. I think he’s already with you on another thread. Sounds like you two might have similar skills–and know well that after seeing his car, I mean that as the highest compliment.
edsnova2014-02-22 09:09:32February 22, 2014 at 11:35 am #259869
Thanks searched Gabor’s build nothing?
Yes thinking same thing chuck the frsme . Maybe Miata front and rearFebruary 22, 2014 at 12:36 pm #259870
Here’s Gabe’s build thread:
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...February 22, 2014 at 1:12 pm #259871
The Miata was the donor for the MGTF that was brought to Carlisle last year by “Bob from Nova Scotia”. Hope he comes down again.
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"February 22, 2014 at 6:58 pm #259872
Before I built, I looked into several different approaches of engine, transmission and rear end. the hardest part was to find a rear narrow enough (without putting out a pile of money to narrow one).
Possible approaches were MGB, Pinto/Mustang II, Chevy S10 V6, a 3.0 boat engine, and the 6cyl that used to be in Post Office Jeeps. I also looked into the Buick aluminum V8, but parts are hard to find. Finally decided on going with the Mustang Cobra II rear and the Ford Cologne 2.8 V6. If I want to upgrade I can replace it with the later 4.0 from an Explorer. The Chevy route was real tempting because they have a brand new crate long block 3.4 liter 60 degree V6 that is meant to replace the older S10 2.8.
You are right about the frame. It looked like the welder was paid by the pound so he used as much metal as possible.February 23, 2014 at 11:29 pm #259873
Wraped up all the pcs. today incase I need to take up to home in Washington. Measured rear with fenders 62.5-63 seame like a 56″ to wheel mount rear end will be fine. The more I look at it I think I will go with Coil over Mustage 2 front and 8 or 9 in ford rear and since I have it the SBC. Its not much diferent than a 32 ford.But I have alot to think about and build in my head first.I do like the idea of Gab’s to make the body removableOctober 3, 2014 at 8:18 pm #259874
Still here still collecting parts. Does anyone have info on using miata front and rear?February 12, 2015 at 9:31 pm #259875
Gkesseru mentions a GM 3.4 crate engine. I have been looking on the web and cannot find one for RWD. Do you have a link or source? Thanks.
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
1952 MGTD Volvo engine (for sale)February 13, 2015 at 7:13 am #259876
Straight from GM. Check out your local Chevy dealer.
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"October 28, 2015 at 11:39 pm #259877
Well almost done with the 2 Meyers Manx buggies I am building. Funny how you start one and another shows up. I now have 2 TD kits aswell. That build is next
langan2015-10-29 11:10:13October 29, 2015 at 5:23 pm #259878
Would love to see the buggies!
And look forward to following your TDr build!
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster
If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to http://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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