Sorry to be late welcoming you to the forum.  I just missed the posting since I was focused on the V8 build and my project.  Anyway, welcome.  As has been mentioned, you have a great project.  The TF is really a stunning car and in plastic it is even better.

Made motor mounts and tack welded in place.  Removed engine and trans so welding shop can finish the motor mounts.  Drive shaft is at machine shop to add a second universal joint.  The car came with a short drive shaft with only one universal.  The rubber mount in the torque tube was toast.  Luckily I found one for the Chevette rear axle.

Very cool idea.  Maybe that same idea can be used at the bottom of the side panels.  Although the side panels would have to be cut at the bottom about the fenders.

More on the Mustang II rear end.  Did you narrow it?  My Chevette rear end is 54 inches and 4 bolt.  The Mustang is a little wider.  Did you have the same issue?  My wheels are at the outside edge of the rear fenders now.  Adding a 1/2 inch to either side would put them outside the fenders.

Bill – noticed that you have a 4 bolt wheel.  What rear end is in the car?

Just for information that others may need, I have been researching radiators for my project an found Ledfoot Racing carries the mid year Mustang radiators.  They also have one that is slightly narrower – CC1600 measures 18 1/4 x 18 3/4 has 3 rows and supposedly supports up to 450 hp.

Is that a custom radiator or what car is it out of?

right side trans cutout

left side trans cutout

engine positioned in frame

Sorry for the 4 month delay in posting, but had back surgery and had to stop heavy work.  But finally got back to removing engine, trans, and wiring, plus a few parts, from donor Camaro.  Engine and trans are now in car for test fit for motor mounts.  T-5 trans mount is in same location as the removed Chevette trans and the same drive shaft fi…[Read more]

That looks about where mine is also.  Just as a double check, the bottom of my front pulley is 3 1/2 inches above the front cross member.  It looks too high, but if I lower it, the pan goes close to the ground.  Oh, it is a GM 60 degree V6.  Guess you are watching Daytona.

Are you using a shallow oil pan?  What is the distance to the ground from your oil pan?  I am trying not to go below the frame cross member at the front, but that puts my engine fairly high with a standard oil pan.

New lower ball joints with a 1 inch riser and cut one more coil from spring has lowered front end about 2 inches.  Looks much better.  But very stiff.  I think I need to redo bushings, they seem to bind too much.  Engine and trans has been removed and sold to a fellow replica enthusiast.  He has an SS Jaguar replica with Chevette running gear.

So I take a little time off and come back to find Bill is getting a bigger engine than I am.  My V6 seems underpowered now.

Slight delay in progress due to a little bad weather here in Florida.  Working on front suspension and decided on urethane bushings.  Only kit available is for Fiero which is supposed to have Chevette  front suspension.  After getting everything installed on arms, realized that lower bushing are too wide and have to be modified.  Lower arm shou…[Read more]

Will that chip cause any vibration?  Or are you going to just remove the remainder of the circle?

Found a donor car for new power for Sammy.  1995 Camaro V6 5 sp.  Pretty car, don’t you think?