Front suspension.

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Bob Foard


keith true on <SPAN wrote:
I just removed the leaves from a cut front beam in one of my cars.Then the ice set in and I won”t get to try it till spring.I was going to cut the beam and put back to original but the ride height has not changed.That really surprised me.I thought there would be a substantial drop.It did not surprise the front end guy I use.I will find out in the spring.I will try it,add if I need to,or cut and reweld if I have to.When I get it where I want it I will do the same to the other cars.Big smile

  I am interested to learn what results you found this spring.  I am a newbie here so please excuse my goof on the previous post. I think I know how this works now.  I am working on a 1970 VW pan and a fiberfab MG kit.  I am rebuilding the front end, and would like to solve the torsion bar issue now.  I accept the expertise of Pink MG on this subject, but like you I am working with a upper tube, that has already been cut and turned.  I want to try to deal with the problem by removing small torsion bars as needed.  I currently have the lower right torsion arm removed and the torsion bars loose and shifted to remove and proceed.  What got me to this point is that I am replacing the lower right torsion arm, as a means of replacing the ball joint.  I found it cheaper to put a new torsion arm on with the ball joint already in, as opposed to replacing the ball joint only.  I was surprised to find two of the large lower torsion bars broken on the right hand side. I had presumed that the torsion bars were unbreakable.  In any case, I will be replacing the torsion bar bundle also.  I think I plan to leave some of the small torsion bars out, but not sure how many.  One thing that bothers me about leaving out some of the torsion bars is that the inside end of the torsion bar arm seems to be recess cut in the pattern to capture all 10 torsion bars.  I relize that the locking set screws are there to prevent the torsion bars from slipping, but it also seems that the recess cut in the torsion bar arms also aid in that effort.  It almost looks as though the precut tosion arm slots provide the main means of preventing twist, and the lock set screws main function is to prevent the torsion arms from moving out away from the torsion bars.  Is it wise to sacrifice that twist locking factor by removing torsion bars?  Also I am looking for advice for the need to remove the same number of small torsion bars from both the bottom and top torsion tubes.  I am not looking forward to taking the top tube apart again to remove torsion bars if it is not necessary.  Any input from you folks would be appreciated.  I think I have read every posting on this site, and the knowledge gained is invaluable.  This is a great site and much appreciated.