Spyder work

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This topic contains 31 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  happyjack 5 days, 22 hours ago.

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    Swept out the garage and took Spydy off the lift because my neighbor wants to use it.

    Gonna be working up front, finishing the horn mounts, welding in the frame extensions (probably weld in the rear jack points too) and then the air box for the oil cooler.

    After that: more aluminum! Floor, firewall, wheel wells, inner door panels—all that jazz.

    I found a big piece of what must be 16 gauge stainless sheet in the shed and wondering if that (instead of thin aluminum sheet) ought to be the piece I put under the seats in this car. What’s everyone think of that idea?




    Considerables not considered:  Workablity of materials.  Originality.  Cost.  Relative strength.  Your penchant for adding lightness.

    Stainless Steel wins!  (I’m an ardent fan, but I’m a Nuclear Engineer, so that should be expected.)




    The whole piece weighs maybe 20 pounds and I’d be using less than half of it. So 10 pounds at the lowest point of the middle of the car.

    I’m trying to remove the whole floor to wrap it in aluminum. I’ve drilled out a lot of the rivets but it’s been glued onto the frame tubes with what looks like Liquid Nails, so I’m going to have to slice that free too if I’m to get this all done.

    That would allow me to rivet the stainless to the frame tubes as well; that’s the A1 plan. I’d cut the stainless (it’s hard but it’s the same stuff I used for Bridget’s fan shroud; at the time I thought it was aluminum and wondered why it was so hard to work!), rough it on the bottom and then use a marine epoxy to bond it to the fiberglass, then finish the aluminum on the rest and glue and rivet the whole piece back where it was using the same holes.

    I’m thinking if I can get the floor off it will give me some nice (temporary) access to the area under the dash, allow me to mount the pedals and do some other work under there as well.




    Spyder work continues.

    Jack points welded, horn pockets installed, grill connected, air boxes made, etc.

    Wish me luck on the steering column (up soon!), since that seems to be something of an Achilles Heel for members of this group.




    Looking good, Ed.

    So much time involved in all that stuff that won’t really be seen. The finished collective should be nice. 👍

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"




    Well, stuff in the frunk will be visible whenever the front lid is lifted. (Wait till you see what I do with the gas tank!) Stuff under the clam will be very much on display whenever the back deck’s propped-up, which will be most of the time the car is parked in public.

    I am hoping that my attention to detail will be rewarded by the car’s buyer—and by the car itself, which if I’m lucky and fastidious will be relatively easy to sort.

    There are important things that will not usually be seen (or noticed), including

    Braided-stainless oil lines, front to back, with AN fittings

    Full-flowed engine case

    Balanced internals

    Engle W125 cam; .460 lift/262 duration on 108 degree lobe centers

    Erco 3.44 ring & pinion

    super diff, hardened keys, welded 3rd and 4th gears

    4-wheel disc brakes (hidden by aluminum “drum skins”)

    braided nylon wire looms

    Battery and fuel cutoff switches in cockpit


    Some of this stuff might be noticed if it were not installed.






    Whoever buys your completed Spyder is going to be getting a great car as well as about $386,542.43 worth of “Ed Labor” and about $1,000,000 worth of “Ed love Of Project Perfection”…   🙂

    Let mw know when I’ll be able to place my bid…….Happy Jack

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