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I knew there was a serious “build issue” with the car I just bought, because the engine cover did not fit right, hitting the snaps for the convertible top with the top edge. I only realized last night the true cause, after I’d done some additional trimming inside the engine lid a couple days ago to clear the low-profile air cleaner, and it still didn’t resolve the issue. I can get the engine lid at the front all the way down to resting on top of the fan shroud, and it still sits on the top snaps at the leading edge.
Last night, I realized that the convertible top bows are installed backwards, allowing the convertible top (and the resulting snaps to hold it) to come down too far on the back of the tub. The car has the solid hoop for the top at the front, with the sliding, adjustable hoop to the rear. It should be the opposite, and consequently, the whole top is too low, and the convertible top extends too far down on the back of the tub…So, I get to reinstall the top, relocate the snaps, and then deal with a bunch of emply holes from where the snaps were originally installed. Crap!Here’s a couple pics from the seller that shows the problem. I knew something didn’t look right with the top’s profile but I thought it was a simple adjustment of the sliding hoop to tighten the top. Note that I bought it from a guy who’d taken it in on trade, never titling it, and knew little about it…
Because of that installation issue, the snaps are way too far down on the tub, interfering with the engine compartment lid’s fit:
Oh well, you guys warned me about the challenge of correcting someone else’s buld mistakes.Note also the “hack” job on the real splash pan where some PO had trimmed it extensively to clear an aftermarket 4-tip exhaust. That I knew I had to deal with, but this whole top installation issue was an unpleasant realization…Any good suggestions on plugging all the old holes where the snaps were mounted? I think I’d rather do that then continue to live with the bad fit of the engine compartment lid. I need to raise the front edge of the engine lid on the tub, and the only way to do that is to relocate the current convertible top’s snap posts…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Kent : Epoxy will fill the holes, Then you need to finish surface. Top should have snaps fitted starting at rear center snap follow directions in build manual. Car looks good.
West Marine has an epoxy that would do the trick. It comes in small quantities and is made for fiberglass repairs. I think it is called Marine-Tex
Thanks, George. I knew it would be a real project but I couldn’t likely get a solid donor Bug running gear for the $1900 that I paid for it. I’m hoping to get it cleaned up and “roadable” for around $3K, when all is said and done, including new tires, etc. That’s far less than sunroof or convertible VW, which is what I was looking at initially…
So far, I’m pleased with the overall deal and condition, even after discovering these issues. I’ve compounded the fiberglass twice, as I inspected it’s condition. First with red rubbing compound, then with Meguire’s polishing compound. I still need to compound it at least once more, before waxing it with Nu-Finish. The gel-coat color is coming back nicely, but there’s still haze in a few spots, and a bit of black stain/oxidation that’s preventing it from matching the original color exactly…I’ve found minor stress cracking in both front fenders, likely because this car mounted the headlights to the grille frame, rather than on the bow that connects the front fender and grille frame. I think that has allowed more flexing of the fenders, and the subsequent stress cracks. Other than that, there’s deep scratches on the left front fender (through the gelcoat) and some serious scratches on the cowling inside the cockpit, passenger’s side. I saw those before I bought it, so those were known issues. The gelcoat had oxidized so badly that it hid a lot of the other imperfections. But, overall the fiberglass appears pretty sound, with few stone chips, etc., and the color is coming back to original.It will never be a show car, but I think I can turn it into a Sunday afternoon driver that I won’t be embarassed to drive… which was my whole goal.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Royal wrote:West Marine has an epoxy that would do the trick. It comes in small quantities and is made for fiberglass repairs. I think it is called Marine-TexThanks, Roy. I’ll check that out!
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...+1 on Marine Tex. I’d maybe put a backer behind the holes to start–alumatape will do. Leave it a little loose so some epoxy flows behind the repair.
Since your cover covers the space you can finish it any way you want–no need to match paint or gel coat.
As for the re-snapping: looks like a very small lip there for you to target. Maybe an inch or so? Inch and a quarter? If you need a little more room, do like on the originals: get a little bit of oak stock 1×2 and bolt that down along the top edge of the tub. Whole back wall and maybe 4-5 inches on each side.
You can adjust your top bows in such a way as the top will allow you and a passenger’s head to clear. Then pull it tight from the back and nail straight through to your wood. Fold the top material over and install the snaps through the nail holes. Then trim off the excess and the old snaps.
Don’t forget to finish the wood nicely. Originally they were covered in rexine (vinyl now), but I think exposed, stained and varnished they’ll look pukka.
Marine Tex is great stuff, it comes in a few ounce jar with a separate small vial of hardener (catalyst), and comes in a gray or white color, and is good for all sorts of uses besides just for fiberglass. Not only does it bond well to fiberglass, but also to metal. I’ve even used it to repair a hole in an aluminum exhaust in a jetski caused by corrosion, and it’s held up for more than 6 years.
When you use it to fill a hole, back it up with some tape like Ed said, but this stuff will be too thick to flow behind the tape unless you push it through and spread it out on the backside of the repair. It’s not a liquid like fiberglass resin, it’s thicker than peanut butter. To help smooth out the side you see, wet your finger and lightly go over the repair and flatten it out. A little bit of water doesn’t bother it at all. That saves a lot of sanding after it cures and hardens, and if you do it nicely, sometimes that’s all you need if you blend it in well with the surrounding area.mrlmd2013-03-26 21:06:37
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