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The good news, I suppose, is that my tow bar works perfectly.
The bad news is I needed it to get all the way around the block.
Some of you remember that last weekend Bridget quit on the way down to Bug Out in Manassas. Turned out to be a bad coil, which a friend and speedster builder named Greg replaced with a good used one. During that excitement I pulled the new Pertronix out and put the old points back in, and that got me home fine despite a lack of timing finesse, dwell meter, etc.
Once home I ordered new stuff–new coil, cap, rotor, wires and even a new “spare” points and condenser, just in case. But the Pertronix was found not guilty.
So this morning I figured I’d put the Pertronix back in while waiting for the lawn to dry. The stuff went in without a hitch, and I took the time to solder new shovel connects on to avoid the shake-loose blues. Bridget started up and I timed her by ear again before shutting down and hooking up the static light. Turned out just right, about 4-5 degrees before TDC. Tightened the disty and checked all the connections for tightness, mades sure nothing was interfering, etc. and, still wearing my slippers, I climbed in for a round the block test drive.
She seemed a little raggy at idle through about 2500, but smoothed out and pick up a little above that. Got about half way around the block, held her in first to 5k and then had her in second topping 4500 when I looked down and saw the tach start bouncing. She died about one second later.
Rolled to a stop with the flashers on and found I had nothing–no ignition, no starter, not even idiot lights.
Looked at all the wires again, no obvioius trouble. Pulled every fuse I could find and did not see a bad one. Replaced a couple just on GP.
Nothing.
This is, of course, the time when admirers stop to coo and ahh over the car. Two different people did this just as I was scratching my head and feeling most idiotic.
Walked home and got the tow bar and the truck, dragged her 400 feet up the hill to the house and got Karen to help me push Bridget up the driveway and back into the garage.
At least it isn’t raining.
Mowing the lawn now, pondering.
Do you have any lights at all? The flashers were working or not? Any electrical power anywhere? If not, check your battery cable connections at the battery and the negative also at the body or engine ground. Something vibrated loose somewhere. You’re going to have to check your dash and fuse block wiring too to see if you have power to there.
That VW tow bar was one of the best inventions ever made and one of my best investments. Until I get my fuel supply problem sorted out (I think I need a new fuel pump even though my present one is new) I never go anywhere unless my SO is home so she can come and get me with my SUV and tow bar.
You should have stayed home to mow the grass, it’s better than trying to sort out an electrical problem.
Thanks mrl.
Yeah, I got flashers, headlight. Just no ign. Which is why, like you, I think a connection worked loose. Assuming it’s up around the coil/voltage regulator since that’s what i disturbed most recently, but I’ll work out from there.
Lawn’s done, but I just might read some before I dive back into this.
So the idiot lights come on when I turn the key now, but real dim. Nothing like when she’s working right.
Nothing more–not even a click from the starter.
Turned out to be the lead to the electric choke. The wire fell off and then hid between the carb and the generator. I found it by feel–it was hot ’cause it was a ground short. Squeezed the terminal end a pinch and put it back, and away I went.
edsnova40797.6968171296
How did that keep the starter from turning over?
With a dead short without a fuse in the line, good thing you didn’t have a fire or burn up the wire.
Glad you got it running again.That is a good point, Marc. I don’t know why it acted the way it did, but it bespeaks problems in the way she was wired. I’ll get a small in-line fuse for that lede, say 8-10 amps, for the next time that happens.
And very right on the fire. It’s always a lucky thing these cars don’t burn up.
Ed. Was the lead that fell off coming off the item shown in the picture I added. I thought it was an electric choke but turns out to be an Idle Cut-off Valve. The wire came off on mine and caused the engine to run rough and stalled when I let up on the accelerator. I had to keep the engine revved up as I drove to get back home. If this wasn’t the part, ignore this. If anything, hopefully my experience with this part may help someone else someday.
see also http://www.vw-resource.com/jets.html#pilot “Idle Cut-off Valve.
So THAT’s what that is!
No, that’s not the part that came loose–mine’s a choke–up higher and it’s bigger–like the one you have above your arrow. But I ALSO have one of those little barrel-shaped doohickies wired to the plus side of the distrib & was wondering what the heck it was. Mine’s on the opposite side of the carb but looks the same otherwise. Thanks!
That valve is designed to ensure a positive cut-off when you turn the ignition switch to off. In the Detroit cars I think it’s called the anti-deiseling switch. A Ralph Nader idea I beleive but couldn’t swear to it. The valve is spring loaded to the closed position. In our VW based TDs, if your engine doesn’t start, you turn your key on and listen for a click in the engine compartment, that’s the valve opening. No click, check to be certain the wire is connected. No click, and engine no start!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack
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