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As the subject title says, how does your splash pan fit at the front end of the body tub? The assembly instructions on mine say to bolt each side to the vertical portion at the rear of the body tub. This is the part that the engine coer closes against. No way mine will fit because I’m at least an inch away from the body. Is this normal for the other TD models (MiGi, Daytona etc)? Does not having it connected make it less structually sound?
newkitman 2013-04-14 13:21:44 Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackMy Classic Roadsters Duchess experience is not gonna help here.
They are much different at the front. Sorry Allen.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Sorry for the confusion. On VW based TD my assembly manual says to bolt the rear splash apron to the body (at the vertical pillars of the body tub.) Mine do not even come close to reaching. It appears in several photos that some other TDs do not attach there either. So I’m guessing that it’s not that critical? Yes/No?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shacknewkitman wrote:Sorry for the confusion. On VW based TD my assembly manual says to bolt the rear splash apron to the body (at the vertical pillars of the body tub.) Mine do not even come close to reaching. It appears in several photos that some other TDs do not attach there either. So I’m guessing that it’s not that critical? Yes/No?Mine is also at least 4″ from the body tub, if not more.But, my splash pan has been hacked to clear some type of aftermarket exhaust header.Similarly, the bottom of the engine cover doesn’t meet the splash pan all the way up the sides. The bottom of the engine cover is angled, resting primarily on the rear corners and across the back. The closer you get to the tub, the wider the crack between the engine cover and the splash pan…
KentT2013-04-17 09:40:38Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I guess we’ll have to figure something out or just leave it as is. Just got the front settled. Had to install, mark, remove, trim and repeat several times to get everything to fit and look right. Pictures after this weekend.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAllen,
Sorry. I misunderstood your initial post.It’s probably not critical.My rear splash pan extends all the way under the rear body panel. The body bolt goes through the bottom of the rear body, through the splash pan, through the sub frame.As long as the splash pan and body are both secured, whether they reach or not should not be a critical issue. It’s more appearance than structural.PMOSSBERG2013-04-17 10:02:57
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Kent,
Something is misaligned or mis-cut at the rear of your car.The engine cover line should be flush with both the rear of the body and the splash pan.If the fiberglass was cut, you may have to live with it. But…From your description, it sounds like the rear of the subframe is too high. It is possible the subframe that supports the rear body structure and engine cover is not installed correctly.On a Classic Roadsters Duchess, the angle of the rear subframe is adjustable so that the body alignment is correct. Don’t know if this is the case on your car.Again, this may not be a critical issue. But regardless of how well these cars are assembled, the fiberglass body parts are going to flex and rub against each other. You are focusing all the friction on the rear corners/edge of the engine cover where it meets the splash pan. In the long run, that’s not good.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Kent, Allen, if you want pictures, just say the word.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Paul,
As far as I can tell, my engine cover has not been trimmed, other than around the hole for the fake spare tire. Each edge of the engine lid other than where the top meets the tub (where the piano hinge is supposed to mount) has a 1″ – 1.5″ flat flange on it. The bottom edge on the sides is angled, not 90 degrees, similar to the shape of the original TD gas tank side covers – which is quite noticeable on the one on the left below.
I see no way that the tub and splash pan could fit, even if raised or lowered, that would yield that kind of angle in the bottom front corner of the engine cover. You’d have to tilt the splash pan down significantly at the rear, with the front raised, in order to get that angle…
KentT2013-04-17 11:07:57Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
Perhaps this illustrates what I’m trying to say. Neither the splash pan nor engine lid are installed in this pic. The splash pan is resting on the bumper mounts with the engine lid sitting on it.You can see the gap at the front of the splash pan that I described — but that front edge may have been trimmed. There’s been no trimming of the engine lid, I don’t think, but you can see that the angle of the bottom edge of it simply doesn’t match the plane of the splash pan…If the bumper mounts were lower, it might make for a better fit of the front sides of the engine lid against the body tub, but it would only increase the angle of the bottom edge and make that gap wider…
KentT2013-04-17 11:26:15Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...To be “right” the splash pan ought to be horizontal, or close to it. A slight slope toward the rear would help it shed water though, and that would help the gap.
But not enough.
So I ask: is the back of the tub bolted down and is there any way to stretch the bottom of it farther back? If you could do that it would change the angle of the back of the tub enough so that the engine lid would start to look like a closer fit.
The other option, of course, is to trim the lid to make the angle match better, then fit some kind of soft trim piece over the edge of it so it won’t bite into the paint too much. If you could lose about 3/4 inch off the top and taper the cut you’d be there–presuming the engine would still fit ‘neath it!
edsnova wrote:To be “right” the splash pan ought to be horizontal, or close to it. A slight slope toward the rear would help it shed water though, and that would help the gap.But not enough.
So I ask: is the back of the tub bolted down and is there any way to stretch the bottom of it farther back? If you could do that it would change the angle of the back of the tub enough so that the engine lid would start to look like a closer fit.
The other option, of course, is to trim the lid to make the angle match better, then fit some kind of soft trim piece over the edge of it so it won’t bite into the paint too much. If you could lose about 3/4 inch off the top and taper the cut you’d be there–presuming the engine would still fit ‘neath it!
I’ll have to see if I can pull the back of the tub out a bit… It appears that there’s a support plate under the fender that attaches to the rear bumper mount, the fenders and the tub. The previous owner has already run a piece of thick weatherstripping around the periphery of the inside flange of the engine lid. This is what contacts the tub and the splash pan. I’m considering adding a bead of fender welt around the outside, but it likely wouldn’t make full contact with the other fiberglass pieces. It would be for aesthetics, and to possibly prevent scratching when removing the engine lid. Mine is not hinged, and attaches with four of those spring-loaded catches, so you can remove it completely.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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