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Here’s a nice NJ Fiberfab. I am posting this because I have never seen a more complete & comprehensive pictoral of a VW Fiberfab TDr. 2 videos + 644 still photos. If there is any Fiberfab question that you need a picture to answer, chances are excellent that the answer can be found here.
Roy, and everybody, do this:
When you post a link like the one above, it looks like this:As soon as you do that, highlight (i.e. select) the link and click the little chain link icon, second from left on the menu of the “quick reply” window. Then click “OK.”At that point, your link should look like this–blue!:Magically, it is then a hyperlink, which readers need only click on to get to the web site you are telling them about.It’s easy, it’s fun….try it!edsnova2014-01-19 11:26:00
Well, it’s got “Yaeger-style analog” gauges. Doesn’t appear any of them actually work, but whatever.
No lower tins. No heater hoses. Fuel filter atop the coil (!) instead of behind the fan shroud. Is that smoke from the right exhaust pipe?Fender mirrors are wrong and certainly invisible to the driver.Radio works though–and the horn!(I know all that sounds uncharitable. Sorry if I offended anyone).edsnova2014-01-19 11:27:13
Looks like he’s dealing with the same issues of missing engine tin that HappyJack has on his monster:
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...different color tin, … same problem —
I just went to the local VW scrap yard and got the missing tin, painted it and will install it when it warms up…I also purchased a digital cylinder head gauge and sensor and will install it on #3 cylinder on the BCW. In the mean time, I installed it on Abby so that I can see what the cylinder head temp is running on that 1600cc engine so that I have a data point to compare the BCW to. Some stuff I read suggested 425 degrees on #3 cylinder is a high limit. So far, the 1600 in Abby is running around 320 degrees #3 cylinder temp with the oil temp running around 140 degrees. This was on a short run on a 40 degree day. More to follow. Pic attached.
Small digital readout is 1″ x 3″ and can be set to alarm at a set high point. I installed it temporarily in Abby to try it out. I’ll take Roy’s suggestion and run some “test runs” on each cylinder and report out on the site. Stay tuned…(Sorry for the sideways picture — can’t quite figure out how to turn it around Help!!!)Thanks for doing this, Jack.
Your oil in the small engine ought to run about 190-210; I don’t think you ran it long enough (on a 40-degree day) to get to operating temp.A lot of the speedster guys supplement any gauge/sensor-based readings with an infrared thermometer pointed at various engine parts.Head temps on #3 should run around 325-350 most of the time, and creep up during extended highway cruising or while sitting in traffic.
Oil temps, like Ed says, should be in the 190-210 range, with an additional +/- 10 degrees not being a cause for SERIOUS concern. If it climbs above 220-225, start looking for the cause. Stop and let the engine cool if it reaches 230 or more. The oil NEEDS to be at about 180 on average, for lubrication purposes. Too cool is too thick…Does Abby’s fan shroud have working flaps and thermostat?What weight oil are you running in Abby?Where’s the oil temp sensor? That makes a difference…Where’s the head temp sensor?NOTE: One more reason for running a thermostat/flaps is that the engine oil warms up much quicker, reducing wear by providing better lubrication. Perhaps most importantly, it helps reduce the “moisture condensation” that can build up in the engine oil (which, in turn makes it more acidic and corrosive) when the engine doesn’t really get hot enough in regular use to evaporate that moisture and boil it off… Short, around-town trips (engine never really gets hot) and no T-stat/flaps, and you’ll likely start seeing white sludge on the underside of the oil filler cap — an indication of water moisture trapped in the oil. Water boils at 212F – any water that has been trapped in the oil from condensation will turn to steam and come out the crankcase breather tube on the oil fill…So, you WANT to see oil temps of 210/212 on a fairly regular basis… some steam will start being released at lower temps (180, for example), but it ALL will come at at 212… Think of it kinda like taking Grandma’s Sunday driver out and “blowing the soot out” occasionally, though for a totally different purpose. 😛KentT2014-01-20 11:52:30
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Hey Kent,
Abby does have a new thermostat and the proper vanes in the shroud. I also went in and fitted a Hoover bit on the oil cooler (bit was missing). I also checked to make sure that the tin between the cylinders is in place. I’m running 10W30 oil that I got from Moss Motors (proper amount of ZDDP or whatever it is…). On Abby, the oil temp sensor is in the oil sump (sensor replaced drain plug). The cylinder head temp sensor (CHT) is a thermocouple that is imbedded in a 14mm ring lug, which is installed under #3 spark plug (pretty neat rig — got it and the digital readout from The Sensor Connection https://thesensorconnection.com/user).I only had a chance to make a very short test drive with the CHT sensor installed — and did not get a chance to fully warm up the engine — so stay tuned for a more accurate report on temps once I get the car up to full running temperature. The big reason I got the CHT rig was for my big engine in my BCW. I know squat about that engine and figured it may help to know how hot it is running in case the engine builder was not up to the task of billing a reliable 2332 air-cooled engine….I remember you making the Hoover bit, but didn’t remember a discussion of T-stat/flaps then…
Good locations for both your temp sensors, IMO.Some like to read oil temp from other locations such as the bypass spring/valve galley behind the pulley tin or stock the oil pressure sensor hole, but I like to read it from the sump — before it comes back through the pump and block oil galleys. It may not react to changes quite as quickly there, but it gives a direct reading of what the oil pump is trying to cool the engine with…My experience with the CHT sensor under the spark plug is that they can be a bit fragile and damaged by repeated removal/tightening… so be gentle with it.Sounds like you’re going about this systematically! 🙂Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Not for nothing you guys…
You now have this great discussion about monitoring engine temps…
…BUT it is buried in a thread titled “ebay Fiberfab >644 pictures”
No one is ever gonna find this again.
On the upside, I believe I just found my epitaph for my gravestone,
“Please Stay On Topic”Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
But back to the original thread: To me, that’s WAY too many photos. Looks like he snapped a shot about every inch and a half all around the car, at least three times. Then again, I’m not in the market for another ride. If I were, then I’d probably look at all the photos I could find. TexAg712014-01-20 21:23:42
1981 Lafer TI
1600 cc Type 1 engine
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