In Illinois, before title is issued, the Sec of State inspects the vehicle and issues a new identification number, “SOSXXXXX”.  This number appears on the title along with description of vehicle.

Depends on the individual state on how they accomplish titling of the vehicle. There is a SEMA or DOT site that explains it all but not sure if it covers vehicles earlier than 1981. Mine is registered using the VW VIN but that’s here in Georgia.

What # are on the title of replica’s prior too 1981 S/N??

From what i have been able to ascertain is that prior too 1981 there was no set standard on the use of Vin#’s and from what i hold to be true is that a Vin# follows the car not the power plant(eng.) So as long as the car’s Vin# and DMV’s Vin# on the title are a match I am good to go? I HOPE!!  But then did/Do replica’s have a Vin# or did/Do they…[Read more]

Steve. The 15#s of your cars VIN may have been assigned by the state. But if you’re looking for the VW VIN, its not on the engine case. The number there is the engine serial number. The VW VIN is stamped into the Tunnel just in front of the shift coupling access plate under the carpet at the back. Lift up the shift coupling access cover carpet…[Read more]

I went to http://www.aircooled.net/vw-vin-number/, to try and get the dates for my VW donor parts, but  I could NEVER get the VIN for my car figured out. It would not take any combination I put in. I was told VW stamped the original VIN on the engine block, but couldn’t find it there, either. I finally realized the “VIN” plate on the car WAS…[Read more]

HELP asap!! Can anyone tell me why my new 1981 MG TD Allison 1700cc 102hp replica has only 15 # in the VIN?

Thanks guys! All suggestions are welcome. I will try the tire pressure first. I am guessing the local guy who set the alignment probably gave me O toe in. I will check that as well.

Got room in here for another opinion??   I too have a Daytona Migi and just wanted to add: don’t let anybody convince you that you need to add weight up front to stabilize at speed.  It ain’t so.  I agree that you have an alignment problem as Ed said or perhaps tire pressure.  Drop the tires down to 14-15PSI  and then you’ll know where the problem is.

If 16 lbs in front doesn’t do it, make triple sure you have a little toe-in. 1/8 inch is about right. 3/16 is OK too. 1/4 is a lil too much. If you have less than an eighth you might wander a bit on the highway. I like a half degree of negative camber as well in the front. Stock spec is 0, straight up and down, but a little camber does it no harm…[Read more]

Thanks Paul. I will go even lower and see how it does.

From Car & Driver, how to decode a tire:

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/how-to-read-a-tire-sidewall-feature

Item 14 is the DOT number, which includes week and year of manufacture.

The tire “decoding” discussion is in this thread: https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-tire-size/

The decoding itself was found in a Car & Driver article:

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/how-to-read-a-tire-sidewall-feature

Item 14 is the DOT number, which includes week and year of manufacture.

General guide is if they are older than…[Read more]

An excellent tire age discussion is in this thread:

https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/tires-manufacture-date/#post-302978

The decoding itself was found in a Car & Driver article:

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/how-to-read-a-tire-sidewall-feature

Item 14 is the DOT number, which includes week and year of manufacture.

Now…may we close…[Read more]

I know it goes against everything you’ve learned with modern cars. But try even lower front tire pressures.

VW’s spec for radials was:

• Front – 18 psi (both with 1-2 persons and fully loaded)
• Rear – 27 psi (both with 1-2 persons and fully loaded; 29 psi after Jan. 1973)

VW’s spec for bias ply tires (with 1-2 persons) was

• Front – 16 psi…

[Read more]