Sometimes a bit of “history” can make understanding our troubles a bit easier, I hope.

Until the 70’s a good brake job included “shaping” the new shoes to match the drums.  This was done on a sanding fixture which removed high spots so the shoes would have full contact immediately rather than having to break in.  Unfortunately this process r…[Read more]

Sometimes a bit of “history” can make understanding our troubles a bit easier, I hope.

Until the 70’s a good brake job included “shaping” the new shoes to match the drums.  This was done on a sanding fixture which removed high spots so the shoes would have full contact immediately rather than having to break in.  Unfortunately this process r…[Read more]

Yes, a proportioning valve might do the trick.  Do you know that you have the right master cylinder installed?  Also, if your rear tires are better than the fronts, this may cause the fronts to lock up first…..or the rears need to be adjusted ….or possibly the rear brakes need to be bled again (assuming you have a split system).

I really do…[Read more]

Ed, are you going to leave the stand-offs?  If you are, you could remove the phillips screws and put in countersunk aluminum or stainless pop rivets and then glass over them.

How are you planning to bridge the gap?  It looks quite wide and may require a few layers of glass to get the right contour.  They probably make something for the pur…[Read more]

Ed, are you going to leave the stand-offs?  If you are, you could remove the phillips screws and put in countersunk aluminum or stainless pop rivets and then glass over them.

How are you planning to bridge the gap?  It looks quite wide and may require a few layers of glass to get the right contour.  They probably make something for the pur…[Read more]

Ed, are you going to leave the stand-offs?  If you are, you could remove the phillips screws and put in countersunk aluminum or stainless pop rivets and then glass over them.

How are you planning to bridge the gap?  It looks quite wide and may require a few layers of glass to get the right contour.  They probably make something for the pur…[Read more]

Spent a couple hours in a cloud of fiberglass dust today. Cut the other three fenders and got most of the steel stand-offs installed. Test-mounted the wires again for fit. They just about do.

Now it’s down to glass. Hoping to have some warm days before the cold sets in. I’d like to get them glassed up, ground back and cured for a few…[Read more]

Great news. Please update on the stopping/lock-up when you add weight.

The other option is to buy and install a proportioning valve and bias the rears a little until they all lock at the same time.

Took the car out today for 30 or 45 minutes for a followup test.  Utter silence except for minor squeaks two times, and they were more like an emasculated mouse than a Screamin’ Eagle.  At the end of my test, I repeated the 50-0 panic stop exercise several more times, then drove a little further and the mouse remained silent again.  I’ll do ano…[Read more]

That looks just fantastic!  What a nice finish on the wood, and the chrome really makes the center “pop.”  Very professional looking.  I’m curious, though, what chrome you used.  It turned out great even with the corner joints … apparently you have both a sharp eye and a sharp knife.

Well I hope it’s just my view of the photos, but it appears the insert is too large for the dash panel. I’ll need to see the finished project.

Except for installing the two oil gauges (temp and pressure) and wiring the gauges up, here’s how the dash turned out. Hope these three photos come through.

Well they didn’t come out. Photos can be seen at http://www.fotki.com/Allen1209 under MGTD build as soon as it starts working again.