Emma is getting closer to being a great running car.  I got the F11 Emulsion tubes, the air corrector and the main jets in the mail yesterday and am still waiting for the idle jets to get here from the UK (way cheaper from across the pond..).  I was able to get the various jets for around $ 4.00 each and the emulsion tubes for $10 each — all w…[Read more]

I like what dbanta says. I mean…isn’t that whole idea of rebuilding a TD, TDr, Mustang, Karmann Ghia or any other car. To enjoy driving the car. We usually don’t recoup the cost of our hobby and that leaves enjoyablity. When Moneypenny is complete and on the road, I’m driving her as often as I can. Cold weather and bigotry be damned!  😀 B…[Read more]

Forget those purist guys. The same issue exists in most manufactures. I have rebuilt Studebaker’s and put aftermarket engines in them (Chevies mostly) and the purist will still turn and become somewhat belligerent because you have destroyed the marque with an aftermarket bastardization. Sounds like a personal problem to me. It’s an MG TD no matter…[Read more]

When I had my VW Karmann Ghia Club, we had a t-zhirt that read: “Karmann Ghias turn men into mechanics.” The same might be true here. And like Ed says “More fun per dollar ratio.”

I focused all of my attention on the distributor well guess I overlooked the obvious no power to the coil must be a broken wire I ran a new wire  problem solved . I swear you guys will make me into a VW mechanic some day .

As you can see, there’s no “one best answer”  on oil, whether for these old VWs or any other car.  My thoughts:

1. Roy is correct that the oil pressure relief valves are set to bypass at 42-45 psi. Running too thick of a blend can be counterproductive, bypassing the cooler and cause the engine to run hotter. Since you are running a remote f…[Read more]

If you are really concerned about the oil in your engine being gunky (if it’s not a word, it ought to be), why not plan on a quick 2 changes?  Warm the engine, drain it and  put in some 0-20 and let it idle and run in the driveway (no load) for a while to flush the engine.  Then drain it again and put in your preferred brand.

Read Paul’s post car…[Read more]

Oh … and as to the IM lap of luxury … true that!

I may not even need a heavy coat and gloves when I leave home. Just turn on the heated seats and blast the warm air! 

Damn, Ed’s commentary may have pushed me over the edge.

If I leave home at 6 a.m., I can have beautiful Polish exchange students serving me drinks by 12:30 … without all you knuckleheads distracting them!

Of course you may have to pick me up off the floor when you arrive at 4. Or just leave me there.

I’d stay with 10/30. VW engines have a by-pass pressure valve for oil flow. I’ve red the 20/50 is too heavy when cold, causes a high pressure situation and triggers the by-pass valve when you really don;t want it triggered.

Re: your oil lines….I’d fill the engine with the normal 2.5 quarts. Run it for a minute to get it circulating. Then check…[Read more]

My .02 cents worth. I used to run a small can of Gumout oil cleaner in my engine for about 5 minutes to dissolve the sludge out of the oil and internal ports. Then I’d drain the oil and change the filter before filling with fresh oil. Not sure if they still make Gumout for the oil system anymore since they came out with the synthetic blends.

I li…[Read more]

Good come back, Bill! 😆

If someone asks, I tell them the London Roadsters were made in a factory in Deerborn, MI , in the late ’70s-mid ’80s.

For car shows, I made a display of the factory info brochures I’ve framed.

At many of the shows I’ve been to there are SO MANY modified cars, there are FEW that would qualify as even CLOSE to…[Read more]