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#236344
edward ericson
Participant

@edsnova

You should get it aligned. The Muir book has a quick and dirty toe-in check though. Maybe do that procedure first–it’s free– then try my handy home camber adjustment:

Car on a level surface, wheels straight, pull the hubcaps and put a good straight edge on the wheel ridge (not the bumps that hold the hubcap). Put a level on the straight edge. You want to be very close to level, with the bubble drifting ever so slightly toward you.

If it is not, loosen the big nut under the upper ball joint, then turn the even bigger nut just above the upper part of the spindle– it’s above the 19mm nut you just loosened. That is the eccentric that adjusts camber. I turned mine with a big channel lock. A quarter or half turn will change a lot. You’ll see the top of the wheel move in and out as you turn it.

There is a notch on one of the flats on this thing. I like to start with the notches to the front and go from there. Turn it one flat, check with the vertical level (I use the “level” app on my iphone), and so forth. Takes about 10 minutes to dial in each side. Also free.
Do both those, put in the $8 caster shims, and drive it to an alignment shop. For $100 or so they’ll compliment your home-brewed job. “It was very close,” they’ll say. It’s worth $100 to me to hear that, just to be sure.

Then ditch those coil overs. Unless all your torsion springs were stolen, you don’t need those.

edsnova2015-05-08 07:05:19