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After a lot of research, talking, asking, it appears as though I now have a cool runner. Royal your are the one that said degrease it. I got into every nook an cranny I could find and then I got out the pressure washer. Then I did it again. Dick you sent me pictures of you engine. Now I know they were all built the same. One other thing I did that I was told to do by a VW powered gazelle guy was to take the hoses that go from shroud to the heater boxes disconnect at the heater box and run them behind the shroud next to fan. While I was doing all of this I also went to 30 weight Brad Penn oil instead of 10 w 30 Brad Penn as suggested buy GbDick and I changed valve cover gasgets. I now have no leaks. I wish I had done each one separately then I would know which one did the trick. Oh 180 degrees not to shabby.
Yay! Success!
If you ever have it out, with the tin off, you can clean/degrease it well, and then spray a light coat of high-temp flat black paint on the head, jugs, engine block and push-rod tubes. This is an especially helpful trick if you’ve gone to oversize jugs/pistons or raised the compression ratio… often dropping the temps 10 to 20 degrees.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...KentT, can you define a light coat? Is that just a dusting of the high temp flat black so that you can still see the metal thru the paint or is it a coating with just enough paint to cover the metal surface? Thanks.
Sam
Just enough to coat the surface and make it black… Try to get consistent coverage without paint buildup. Once careful coat…
Extra paint layers work against you.You’re looking to increase the thermal transfer by having a black surface, without adding insulative layers.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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