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Now that I’ve got a new top, I went for a ride today and the engine noise is LOUD. I never noticed that before probably because of the wind with the top down and the remnants of my old top in the bay behind the seats and the tonnau cover over that all together muffling the noise. Has anyone soundproofed their engine compartment and rear lid with a foam sound insulation bat or do you just listen to it? It would probably make a little less noise with an insulated firewall closing off the front of the engine bay behind the trans.
If you insulate the firewall be sure to put a screen over the fan intake opening. Many engines bit the dust by sucking insulation into the housing.
Not sure there is a whole lot you can do about the engine noise. Our seats are almost at the rear firewall. Might knock out some by installing some insulation behind the rear carpet section but dbrock is correct. Wherever you put it make certain the engine fan intake has a screen protecting it to keep out any unwanted debris. I plan on screening off the entire lower front half of the opening to the engine compartment. newkitman40870.5971180556
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackMine has some sound deadener. It’s still very much louder with the top up than down. Loud both ways but very much so with the top up. No idea how to make it less so.
Well, maybe another layer of fiberglass insulation on top of the well behind the seats?
Your ear is about three feet from the engine. It’s gonna be loud!
Putting the roof up acts almost like a megaphone, helping to focus that engine noise and aim it at your head.
The noise can be pretty tiresome over a long haul. For really long distance drives, I sometimes wear foam racers plugs.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
my 2 cents
Most after market exhausts are load, The more exits or pipes, like the monza type increse loadness. the mufflers thes use are nothing more than expansion chambers. if you would like a quiter car get an original vw exhaust system or even one of the early single piem type. You will sacrifice some preformance.
I have the original VW exhaust and it’s not the exhaust tone that’s loud, it’s the engine noise itself.
There is a sound deadener foam made with a foil face so the bare foam is not exposed, and thereby can’t dry and flake off. All of these foams are pretty well insulated from the heat also, as they are used in engine compartments, as in boats for instance. I may look into some sheets of that to put behind the rear compartment, or attached to a new firewall to close off the engine compartment, as in a real VW. They must have a fair amount of sound deadener in a VW, I never heard any noise like that from a 1956 Bug I had up to riding a new one. I also had a Lotus Esprit which had a mid engine right behind the tiny passenger compartment and that great noise was nothing like this loud. Otherwise for a long trip I may have to use the earplugs I ride with on my motorcycle but there has to be a better way.
mrlmd40867.6821527778My car is really loud also. Has anyone lined the lid with dynamat/wondermat/j c whitney heat-sound insulation or some similar product? I think I will give it a try, as well as the firewall.
Jack
If you are thinking about going the Dynamat route there is a much less expensive material sold at Lowe’s and Home Depot. It’s called Peel and Seal. It’s in the roofing section. I lined my entire chassis and the rear package tray section on the body on my 65 Beetle with it and it makes a huge difference. It’s metal faced on one side with an extremely sticky surface on the other. You peel off the protective paper and stick it down. Easy to work with.
Tom, I also am considering insulating. Did you test the Peel & Seal for heat resistance? How many days/weeks/years ago did you apply?
It’s made for roofing systems and rain gutters. I don’t have it on any overhead surfaces. I used it on the floor of the pan and on the rear package tray area behind the back seat. Verdict is still out on how long it lasts or how the heat affects it as I just put it down about 6 months ago. It’s gonna be under carpet. I will say once you put it down it’s stuck and hell to get off. I layed it down pressed it with my hand then used a hard rubber roller to roll it into the nooks and crannies. I’ll see if I have a pic and post it.
Here’s a couple pics of it on the chassis.
Gunfighter40870.5751967593
Tom, that’s a good suggestion. You did a great job on your car. I had not considered doing the floor pan, but now I think I will do that also.
Jack
I purchased 4 rolls of Instant Waterproof Repair Tape by U.Seal at Home Depot and lined the interior of my car. It is 6 inches wide and 25 feet long, making it easy to work with. Since you do not remove the paper backing until you have cut it to size you have an easy job of it. I kept my sizzors in a container of laquer thinner and they stayed clean the whole process.
It only took two rolls ($17 each) to do the interior. I plan to do the engiine compartment with the other rolls.
I removed the carpet and had an upholstery shop reproduce them in new carpet. Installing the new pieces was time consuming but the result is terrific.
Sorry, no pictures of the process but I will post some of the finished product later.
Jack
How thick is that tape and how much soundproofing do you expect?
If it works that would be relatively easy to apply to the inside of the rear deck and engine compartment to try and eliminate some noise with the top up.Hi, The tape is pretty thin. It consists of the rubber/tar layer with a silver aluminum foil on top. I was concerned that my new carpet would not fit over it, but that was not the case. I am guessing that it is .1 mm thick. It is very plyable and sticks like crazy. I watched my neighbor do Dynamat in his 57 Chevy, and it was really messy. This is not as thick as Dynamat but it is the same principal for a LOT less money.
Jack
It’s probably heat and moisture resistant but being that thin, I don’t know how much sound deadening it will give. But for $34 and being easy to apply, maybe 2 layers to cover the rear area in front of the engine might work, doubling the sound isolation between the metal and foam layers.
You will be surprised at how much noise can pass through a small hole. Close up all the gaps while you install sound deadening material.
Eastwood sells sound deadening material that is only.063″ thick yet cuts road noise from 104 – 99 db. It’s pricey at $149.99 for 33.75 square feet. It even comes in a spray.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermocoustic-material.html
BONDED LOGIC HEAT/SOUND INSULATION from jc whitney
http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx ?filterid=u0j1
4ftx6ft heat sound insulation 39.99 +shipping
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
The insulation that Ray10 linked to from Whitney is the best for the $$ that I have used. Great stuff.
Here is a pic of my engine compartment with the U-Seal product applied. I also did the pan and storage area but failed to get any pics.
Stacks – Did you take it for a ride yet? It’ll be very interesting to hear how much noise reduction you got.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Is your engine compartment closed off with a firewall or tin up front? That needs sound insulation more than the rear deck lid because, at least in my car, that’s where most of the noise enters the passenger compartment from, from behind and through the rear storage area. With my top down and folded up in there, it greatly muffles the noise. and with the top up, and that compartment empty, it’s very loud inside the car.
I would also put that tape inside the rear deck beneath the carpet or on the engine side of the fiberglass.
Like Paul said, let us know if that tape works to quiet down the engine noise.It was definitely quieter, but since I do not have a firewall panel I still felt pretty noisy. I think it is as good as it is gonna be.
Jack
The perfect noise reducer…
I just wear ’em on long highway drives, if the roof is up.
PMOSSBERG40890.4582175926
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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