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Hello all,
I just bought an mg replica, not sure what year replica it is. I posted a picture in the registry an any help advising w hat year model it us would be great. I paid 1500 and what I know so far is that I need to completely replace the floor pans c I have removed all bolt on both side but it will not lift off. Are they usually bonded down? Hoping I can find some of you who have done this already. One plan on replacing brake line, clutch cable and anything else that would make sense to do once it is off.I look forward to talking with the member and hopefully being helpful to new members in the future one I get my feet wet.
Ricky
Welcome aboard Ricky. This is a great group and the best forum on the plnet.
If your kit is VW based, the body is connected to the pan they are USUALLY connected to the side edges of the pans with bolts and nuts. Then four bolts secure the rear by the tunnel access, and four bolts on the front corners and four on the front firewall.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackSometimes caulked too. You might try threading some mechanic’s wire between the pieces and see if you can slice it through anything that might be gluing the pieces. You’ll find any bolts you missed with it too.
Great, that helps I will look for the other bolts today and try that wire. I am exited to get the body off and get started. I have learned so much about the car by just reading the threads on this site. My goal is to have it on the road in 6 months.
I have I it all loose now and just need to disconnect some wire and lift it off. Will I have to do any modification to full new floor pan other than just some trimming.
Has any one gone with other methods of attaching other than welding. Such as rivets or screws? And will a mig welder do the job.
Any advice on where to purchase the floor pans from oem parts are 250 for each side while a local bug shop in Tampa has aftermarket ones for 124 each.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.
The aftermarket ones are usually (always?) thinner gauge metal. Imho you don’t need the weight savings.
Here are some 18 gauge at $340.Cip1 has the same price. https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-111-701-061-MTIt is said that the cheaper ones are 20 or 22. I don’t know. The floor pans on my car were fiberglassed, stem to stern, inside and out by the PO when he built the thing in 1982.So…no welding on those for me.Mymgtd wrote:I have I it all loose now and just need to disconnect some wire and lift it off. Will I have to do any modification to full new floor pan other than just some trimming.Has any one gone with other methods of attaching other than welding. Such as rivets or screws? And will a mig welder do the job.
I used a mig welder and found it did a good job but only after using a heavy piece of steel as a heat sink placed on the thin floor pan next to where I was welding.
You can MIG, according to this guy.
I MIG welded my floor pans in. I had to practice a bit using thick and thin metal to know where to set your welder speed and temp/amps and it’d be good to do that for your brand of welder. Some folks I know drill holes and plug weld the pans to the frame and some stitch weld three inches along the tunnel leaving about one inch between welds. Either way, after welding the pans in, you’ll have to apply seam sealer along the inside of the pan edges. I seam sealed both top and bottoms to ensure water stays out.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThanks for all the advice. I will go ahead and weld them in. Trying to find a source for the 18 gauge pans locally to save on the shipping. I have all the wire marked and disconnect. Last thing is the steering rod and she is ready to lift off.
Edsnova are yours fiberglassed over the tin pan or all fiberglass? I was thinking that i could fiberglass over the aftermarked ones to adds strengh and seal them from water. I have seen some that are all fiberglass being sold on some sites. Anyone else have any experience using them.Mine are metal, fiberglassed on both sides by the guy that built the car. He told me this; I believe him. I’ve got to drill them this weekend so if there turns out to be no metal there I’ll update.:lol:
Since you have the body off and can get at it easily, you might want to relocate the emergency brake handle from the current location under the dash to a spot between the seats. Do a search for “emergency brake lever” and you will find information on the project.
mustang_evets2014-04-14 11:37:03Will do Mustang. I plan on doing as much as i can while I have the body off, new brake line, cable and so on. I am going to sand blast the chassi and undercoat it all. I saw something about a hydrolic emergency brake. Has anyone tried that?
Usually not recommended as emergency brakes. I guess a line lock could eventually allow fluid pressure to drop, releasing the brakes.
Just one example…the vendor warns in the ad to not rely on this as an emergency brake.That said, it would seem a combination of leaving the trans in gear and using the line-lock would work ok. That’s purely my non-expert conjecture.All this makes me wonder about the electrically activated parking brake in my 2009 Volvo!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Here’s Happy Jack’s excellent ebrake relocation posts.
If you’re in there welding pans this job is easy.
good progress so far. Got the old pans off and did a little sand blasting. I am going to use the por 15 for the chassi once i get it all cleaned up. Got the new brake lines ready. This is really fun. I am enjoying and learning so much as i go along- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.