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Since I know I’m going to have a lot of questions, thought I’d just open a new thread. My hopes of having a running engine were dashed-two spark plugs apparently cross threaded…..So, question on paint. I’ve tried the 3M system with an orbital, and the compound is not nearly aggressive enough. Lotsa orange-peel. Anybody have any suggestions on a compound? Do not plan to repaint soon, so got to make the best of what’s there.HubertI’ve had good luck with Meguire’s Ultimate Compound bringing back the finish on mine.
Starting with this:
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Today, I tested a small area, sanding with 400 grit (to progress to 600 grit, then compound, then, if there is any color left, wax!)
I really think thats what it’s going to take. I actually think I’m dealing with gelcoat, not paint. It did leave the area -much- smoother, and I eliminated most of the “orange peel”.Gonna be a lot of work, but then I have more time than money! 🙂Big box delivery today! The new, narrowed front end, shortened torsion bars and tie rods from CIP. Now the question: I assume I need to remove the smaller leaves from the torsion bar pack, as it’s talked about in this forum?
BaytownTD2014-01-02 18:27:43
With all respect to KentT’s great job here’s something else to look at.
Somebody posted this under cleaning oxidized gelcoat. It is unbelievablehttp://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579174
PMOSSBERG2014-02-04 23:38:19I have never had any luck getting sanding lines of less than 1500 out by compounding. Actually I recommend finishing with 2000, or even better 3000 before compounding. I use 1000 or less only when there is a run or a blemish. Whenever sanding with a lower grit, always go through he intermediate grits before ending up with your final one.
Baytown: I would.
You bought shortened leaved then? Installed in the shortened beam? If so, Take out all the small ones. Making the leaves shorter stiffens up the spring rate a little all on its own.If you are using your stock (long) leaves, you need to get an inch chopped off each side (assuming you have the 2-inch narrowed leaves). Then you have to bundle them tight and drill new divots near the ends of both sides, as with the stock ones. That’s so the grub screw can set.For what it’s worth, I’ll second Kent’s recommendation of Meguire’s. And how you can start with 400 grit, is beyond me. You will be sanding forever with the finer grits to get the scratches that you put in out. I use the same procedure that Gabor recommends: 1500-2000-3000-compound. And lastly Ed’s right on about removing the small leaves.
Wow, I’m an agreeable old sot tonight. But…..you’re getting nothing but good advice above.I posted this link a in the General Discussion forum, though I can’t link to that post. You may want to try this stuff, rather than sanding everything.
My topic in General Discussion has the link to where you can buy it…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Thanks very much for the responses. I will order the Autosol stuff and try it out. Sanding all the way out to 2000/3000 is just a bit much work! If I can get it done using just a buffer-I’m a happy camper.
Yes, I bought the pre-shortened leaves. Since I live in an apartment now, there is only so much I can do without having “neighbor problems”. Got the car up on jackstands today. Humm think I’ll make this a post in general discussion…HubertWhat I learned today is that you shouldn’t spend all afternoon trying to compound out scratches. Excellent solution for removing oxidation but for scratches of any real note see gkesseru above, or learn to live with it. With apologies to the perfectionists out there I’m going with the latter.
Shiney bits and bad paint
Here is a shot of my gelcoat. It’s worse that shows in the pic. The “whiteish lines” are cracks.
And here is a shot of the right hand wind wing after cleanup. I used Diamondite cleaning system on the pexi, and it worked fairly well. Took out all but one deep scratch. Polished the shiney bits on a small buffer, nothing special there. Painted the brass cap nuts with clear nail polish-not sure how long that will last out in the weather. Should be good for a while…
Unfortunately, I’m missing one mounting bolt. Anybody got an idea where I could find a replacement?
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