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I ran into some problems last week with Audrey (Ford 2.3). Heard some loud chatter from the motor. Turned her around and headed home. Got home, in garage left her running to check the noise. Sounded like lifters or maybe timing belt hitting the guard. Not having the time right then just shut her down had headed in the house, as I looked back a huge puddle of oil was under her. Cleaned it up and
went inside. Next evening had time to look, listen and try to figure what was wrong. Not much oil was really missing on the dipstick, started taking her apart, took fan off, ft timing belt cover off etc. Lots of oil under the cover and on the belt (it was replaced last winter, maybe 400 miles on it) and ft of gears. Put fan back on and started her up, noise turned out to be water pump chatter easy fix 
yea, I can do that. After cleaning inside the belt area throughly with brake cleaner, started her up again to look for the oil leak. Found the ft of the new valve cover gasket was torn and leaking again, 2nd time I’ve replaced it since installin the polished alum cover last winter. Both times about a 3 inch tear on the drivers side of the arch in the gasket. Thinking,
when I did it the first time maybe was careless; so I was very careful the second time so I know I didnt tear it on the install. This time I did a little more prep work, there was a slight rough spot on the head about where the tear was, emery clothed it till smooth to touch, I checked the pcv, rattled ok but looked like original so replaced it anyway and have went back to the vented filter cap. Finally when I installed another new gasket I used some blue rtv gasket stuff on both sides of the gasket just in case. I’m not a mechanic or much of a diagnostician, just a shade tree wrench turner when I have to.
questions,
Any idea why the gasket would tare or blow out in the same place, twice? Would a stuck pcv or the non vented filter cause enough pressure under a valve cover to blow it?
Should I replace the timing belt, will the oil and brake cleaner hurt or shorten the life of the timing belt?
Thanks Montie
Montie,- my 2 cents when installing the new gasket did you you use a torque wrench to the wright torque ? — do you have excessive blow buy?………and yes I would replace the belt,, cheep insurance.. Dan
Dan, no torque wrench used. I just took it down snug then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Never had to worry about torque on a valve cover gasket before. Any idea what the torque should be? Montie
Montie, Did the gasket problem begin after you changed to a non-vented cap? If it occurs only with the non-vented cap, it sounds like either pressure or vacumn build up in the engine,perhaps blowing the gasket . I should say I have no experience with this particular engine, but had a simular problem with a 6 cyl. Chev. when I replaced a vented cap with a non vented chrome plated one for a car show. When we arrived at the show after a 20 mi. drive ,the engine was covered with oil. We wiped the engine as best we could and put the old vented cap back on for the drive home and that fixed the problem. The car was a 67 , we had a 68 ,with a non-vented cap from the factory. What I did not consider was that they had changed the crankcase vent system from 67 to a closed type in 68.
Montie , the non vented oil cap could be the trouble
creating to much pressure in the crank case for the pvc alone to vent ?? new engines are basically a sealed system older engines are not if the rings are worn that would create crankcase pressure to great for the PVC alone to vent . just a thought i would go back to stock. DanMontie
My 2 cents, put the vented cap back on. The blowout is at the weakest part of the fittings and the pressure with non vented is too much. Remember, chrome won’t get you home.
I’d also look into the blue Felpro gasket with the metal core that prevents over torque (available at rock auto). And get a new belt, one of the lugs might have sustained some damage. Cheap insurance.
Ringo
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