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I’m replacing the front shocks on my BCW TD. I bought new shocks, same make and number: Monroe – 32153. But I have to almost totally compress them to install. Is this normal, or about how much should I have to compress them?
IMHO, the shocks should be near the center of travel when the car’s weight is on the wheels. That will allow the shocks to compress when the springs compress when going over a bump etc.and extend when the wheel drops into a hole. Are the new shocks the same length as the old ones? If your BCW’S front suspension is as stiff as mine , the springs do not compress very much so the shocks might not need to compress very much.However that is not a desireable chacteristic.
The shocks are the same length. The front suspension has always been stiff with a little steering bounce.
Ed, Dick’s BCW is Chevette based like the one I have. BCW had to design shock mounts to clear the TD fenders as the Chevette shocks would not fit in the stock position.I’m guessing that they cut the springs which along with the lighter weight of the TD gives a stiff ride.
These are the specs for the shock you listed.
What compressed and extended length would you prefer?
I’ll try to come up with a decent replacement number.Lower Mount : Loop Type 10 mm x 1 5/8″
Shock Compressed Length : 10.25″
Shock Dust Shield : Yes
Shock Extended Length : 15.5″
Shock Parts Pack Part # : P1137
Shock Travel Length : 5.25″
Upper Mount : Stem 3/8″ x 16Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Dick, If your shocks are in fact “fully compressed” with the car on the ground and no passengers (?) then it seems to me that you should take the shocks completely off the car, then after loading the car as you normally want it (either 1 or 2 people) bounce the front end to make sure that you have good wheel to fender clearance. You might want to do the clearance test with the tires turned fully right or left also. I would then take it for a nice controlled slow ride around the block and make sure the tires don’t rub. If all’s well at this stage, while the car is still loaded with passengers, measure the distance between the shock mounts. That will be the # that Bill wants. I think that you are in for a real treat when you get the right shocks installed. It’ll feel like a totally different auto.
Wow. Problem solved! Thanks for all the help. I installed Monroe 5811s on the front. The steering bounce is gone, and while the ride is still stiff, the improvement in steering is much improved, like in fantastic.
Dick, I guess your new shocks are shorter than the old ones?? Please tell us the nitty gritty of how you determined what the problem was and how you corrected it.
new specs:
Lower Mount : Loop Type 7/16″ x 1 5/8″
Shock Compressed Length : 8″
Shock Dust Shield : No
Shock Extended Length : 12.25″
Shock Parts Pack Part # : P1134
Shock Travel Length : 4.25″
Upper Mount : Stem 3/8″ x 16Glad it worked out.
The only way to eliminate the stiffness would be a set of afternarket springs.
If they are the stock Chevette springs, determining a replacement with a
lower spring rate should be easy for a good spring shop.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"To answer Royal’s question: His and billnparts earlier posts got me to thinking. With the shocks installed, I measured the distance between the shock’s attachment points on the ground – 11 inches, and when jacked up – 12 inches. Then I removed the shocks and repeated both measurements with the same results. Thanks to earlier posts, I had already figured out the shocks were almost fully compressed when installed. (Okay, so I’m a slow observer.) It seemed logical that the shocks should be well extended when installed to get maximum compression.
Then I searched on Google and found:I found two shocks with specifications that would fit and picked the one with the best fitting bottom loop #5811, but #911171 was a contender. So off to the nearest parts store. They had to order the shocks and they came in the next morning. Forty dollars and an hour later, Penelope was back on the ground and I went for a test drive. Royal’s prediction about Penelope feeling like a totally different auto came true.Many thanks.PMOSSBERG2012-10-07 18:32:51
Beautiful.
There’s no reason these cars have to ride like a rock.
Mixing and matching parts can result in a ride that is quite pleasant.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"That Monroe document is a great resource Dick!
Thanks!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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