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So I just noticed there’s two different empi type kits. One, retailing for $200 or so, uses your existing drum-brake spindles to convert to a disc brake. The other kit, usually about $300, comes with new spindles. So I get it: one has the spindles, the other doesn’t. Install of the with-spindle kit will require unforking the ball joints & etc.; so the other one is probably a quicker/easier install.
But what are the differences between the two kits in real-world use?
Do both methods change the front track width the same amount?
And how much would that be?
Please chime in, experienced VW wrenches.
(Oh, btw, I ask because I got a line on a new-in-box kit WITH spindles the dude wants $200 for).
Ed,
I thought that most all of us agreed that the VW stock drum brakes were fine unless you had too much money. (I went for a ride in my car today because I had too much gas in it and bought 2 Holley bugspray carburetors .)Why are you pondering improving your brakes?I bought a “bolt-on” disk brake set for my 72 Super. It was much easier than going the full route… Whatever kit you buy, make sure you can buy the replacement pads several years down the road…
my .02
Thanks, guys. I’m pondering it because I’m pondering a subaru engine swap for when the time comes and because I like being able to stop, every time. With a soob I’d have about triple my current HP and, though the car would weigh about the same, I would certainly, from time to time, exceed my current top speed.
Also: autocrossing.
Still, my question is more about the differences between the two kinds of kits. The one on offer is the with-spindle kind.
Does the kit with replacement spindles use the original VW parts and hardware or are you stuck using their parts for future replacements. Go with the kit where the parts are easiest to come by.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ed, I don’t have the answer to your question, but I went the complete spindle/disc route and it uses Ghia pads and easy to find. I thing I do know is if you go disc fronts you will need to adjust your rear drums all the time otherwise all the braking will be done by the fronts and everything gets very hairy.
On another note I am thinking of putting my newly built VW stroker ( built for my speedster build ) in my TD and going W/ the Subaru in my Speedster – maybe something we can share ideas on – let me know if you decide to move in that direction.It’s my day to work and I had time to check the Empi website. It seems the drop spindle kit only increases the offset 1/4″. If the fender on Brigette can clear the tire at full lock, I personally would go with lowering it. Check that your front beam will have enough clearance as that will be lowered as well.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"She’s low enough already, Bill & I don’t have a spare 1/4 inch, which is why I’m asking about the track width changes. A lot of guys buy the 2-inch narrowed beam but I skipped it when I went to the new beam last year.
Schu: I’m gathering info. David Stroud seems to have the best handle on this job for the Speedster. There are people who swear by the O.E. FI & can get it to work fairly easily. I’m thinking this might happen next year, if I have a job & all that.
Been looking for a low mile EJ22 for the longest. Every time I find one it gets taken off the market.
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