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I think that my throttle was not assembled correctly. Coming from the front of the car is semi-rigid tubing of about 3/8 diameter. The throttle cable passes through this and into a piece of pipe that is slightly smaller and seems like the piece of pipe should fit inside a collar on the semi-rigid piece. This second pipe feeds through 2 holes in the fan assembly and the throttle cable goes through it to the carburetor.
My question. What holds the piece of pipe into the semi-rigid tubing?? Mine wants to come apart and then the cable rubs on the edges of both and will eventually fray the wire.Am I missing a fitting or something? It’s a real pain getting this rig together with the cable inside while feeding it through the fan housing.Also, is the pipe assembly supposed to thread through the vertical hole in the sheet metal just above the joint at the front where the engine mates to the transmission?I’ve got a ton of books but I guess that they all thought that this was too obvious.
Roy,
Not sure I follow you totally, but my cable goes through a aprox. 4-6″ tube w/ a flared end on the carb side and is held in place on the back side of the fan housing w/ a small hose clamp to keep it in place – very simple, but works. Maybe your talking about farther back by the trannie? Been a while since I put that together ( maybe 6 years? ), but can crawl under and take a look if needed and nobody else remembers either. Let me know – I should have some time on Sunday. I can take pic’s as well.Dale, thanks for responding. Yes, that little 6″ piece with the flare is on my engine going through the fan housing. My question is: I am now talking about the semi-flex piece coming from forward. It also has a flare on the aft end. Does the semi-flex fit over/around the 6″ piece? It looks like the semi-flex will reach to allow the 6″ to go inside it. If the 6″ piece does go inside, what holds the 6″ piece inside? Sorry, I guess it would work if you just let it “dangle” but that would put a strain on the throttle cable itself which would tend to open the throttle. That doesn’t sound right.Roy,
The normal setup is like Schu say. There is a small rubber/flex tube that fits over the tube as it exits the chassis that most folks leave off. I do not. When I see this flex tube used, must folks seam seal the end on the chassis and the end by the engine just remains unconnected. Something to do with the chassis and engine flexing differently and that allows the cable to stay in a somewhat neutral position. I have seen somw floks flare the end of the tube near the engine. Anyway…you mention that your accelerator cable may get frayed. The accelerator cable is/should be a solid wire about 0.60 thousands in diameter as opposed to a braided cable like the clutch cable. Is your cable not a solid one?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThanks Allen, I guess I did not have a problem in the first place. Now I will put it back together.
My accelerator cable is 6 wires twisted to about .100″ +/-. Do I have the wrong one? I am going to lubricate and replace it this week. I’ll see what the auto store tries to peddle. (I feel better about mine than a solid wire.)(I think.)Glad everything is comig together. But as a side note, I have never seen an accelerator cable that wasn’t a solid cable with a metal sleeve at the carb end. Perhaps because our cables are shortened, a braided cable is better.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThe part Allen is speaking of is called a Bowden tube. It is flexible and bridges the gap between the chassis and where the rigid tube exits the fan shroud. Here is an example.
Regards, DougThanks Doug.
I was talking about that tube but did not know the name of it.My original question (now reworded) is should the rigid tube that exits from the forward part of the fan shroud actually fit inside the flare of the bowden tube? And if it should, how would it be attached or kept captive inside it?If memory serves me (and it usually does NOT) lol… the Bowden tube should be somewhat of a snug (tension) fit between the chassis and the tube that fits thru the fan shroud. The Bowden tube should push onto the rigid tube and be a snug fit as well. The acc. cable will keep it from separating. I always use a small hose clamp to prevent the rigid tube from working out of the fan shroud.
I will be getting my 63 out of storage soon… I used all of these on it… just cannot for the life of me remember what it all looked like when together. (though things always look different from below than from the top)Sorry I cannot be of more help.Hey guys, stop trying to confuse our friend Roy. The throttle cable does NOT run through a Bowden tube.
The Bowden tube is for the clutch cable. In a nutshell, the sag in the Bowden tube allows for some flex when the tranny moves and also minimizes clutch chatter.
Here are two good explanations:
http://www.vw-resource.com/bowden_tube.html
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqbwdn.htmPaul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Agreed that the Bowden tube is for the transaxle but there is a tube for the accelerator cable. Here’s the reference from Rob and Dave’s VW pages on accelerator cable replacement.
newkitman2013-01-27 18:53:58
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackWow! Thanks all. Now I know more about VW cables than I ever wanted to. I really thought that I had checked out all documentation but I had forgotten my old Rob & Dave site. I had looked in Haynes, Bentley, Muir, Fisher, Wilson and Purvis. Forgot R&D. What I really need is to write up a list of where to check for an answer, in order, and then check them off as I go. But the best place to check is right here. Thanks guys, you are the best! Now, I have to wait a few days on my Bugspray project, for my new cable to arrive. None in stock locally. This carb is a bit taller and I ran into all sorts of clearance problems. Wait til you see my air cleaner. It is inside my “continential” tire – no choice, that was the only place there is room. Very tight. Very! No expense spared, neither in time or cost to give Patina Bill a good run at the Carlisle autocross. 😆
Now you guys know what books I have (I also have the dvd on engine rebuilding plus a 1969 original VW owners manual). So let me know if I can look something up for you. I find that Muir (which is also fun) or Rob & Dave usually answer my questions. Paul, that Bugshop link is a good one that I did not have.Whatever name you give it… (I call it a Bowden Tube) These are a few pictures of “it” in its proper location.
😉Got it Doug! Not to get under the car (or maybe easier with the drivers wheel removed) and put it together. Thanks.
It will absolutely be easier with the left rear wheel off the car!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Its amazing what you can get to when the body is off. Real easy to get into all sorts of troube.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackFound a new cable locally and got it together and it even looks like it is supposed to be that way. Thanks guys, it just didn’t look right before, but it didn’t want to go together. Rob and Dave told me that it isn’t easy to do and those words of discouragement allowed me the freedom to swear at it a few times and finally it gave up.
.Did you used the German words? Like…..well never mind. We’re not suppposed to go there? lol But Shieza!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackEveryone knows to stay away from the barn when I’m trying to put something together. lol
My wife says I sound like the dad from Christmas Story!My dad would curse in Swedish.
I learned some cool words…but never knew what they meant!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I’ll be interested to hear your feedback on the Bugspray carb. I’ve tried to use them on several Bugs over the years and was NEVER satisfied with the results. Poor acceleration and a huge flat spot off idle, though they did perform well at high RPM…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I totally lost control of my calendar. My To Do list has pushed my TD work to the back burner. But, I almost got to it today. Next few days of nasty predicted weather and we have company coming. I just checked with the Scheduler in Chief and she has allowed that maybe next week I can get back to TDing and tweaking on the Bugspray. I’ll let you know. I’m working from 2 bugsprays and 3 different 2 barrel manifolds and am ready to put in whatever time it takes. In the end, I can always go back to my old Solex (which always performed flawlessly). (I guess I’m trying to fix something that wasn’t broken.)
It’s hard to beat a 30 PICT on a single-port, though the 34 on the dual ports could be a PITA with all it’s smog-related mods…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Well, as I confessed, I had lost control of my calendar. But today, I changed from my old SVA distributor to a 009, retimed to 30 degrees before TDC at 3500rpm and went for my first test drive with my “new” 2 barrel Holley Bugspray that I rebuilt. (My old carb was a single barrel Solex H30/31 PICT.) WHAT a difference! Yep, I have a hesitation off idle, but wow, markedly better acceleration. I will do some tweaking on the accelerator pump and try fiddling with the ignition timing the next nice day but, I have to say that my single port engine was starving for more fuel. Soon, I will take MiGi out and give you a more quantitative review of it vs the old single barrel. I did not experience any of the manifold icing (yet) that you hear people talking about. I had cleaned out my heat risers and hooked everything up. Ambient temp was 54 degrees. Pretty exciting.
Bugspray update:Adjusting the accelerator pump to maximum squirt solved the hesitation problem. All gone.I had previously (with my old Solex H30/31 PICT carb) found a strip of pavement and marked out where I was when I reached 60mph.On my first Bugspray trial, I had installed the 2bbl Holley Bugspray with an Edelbrock isloated runner manifold and .047 main jets. I stayed with the jets that came with the carburetor after I rebuilt it. With the Holley I got up to 65mph, a 5 mph improvement. Wow! No hesitation on acceleration. I got 23mpg with this rig.But on page 31 of Fisher’s 1970 book “How to Hotrod a VW” he suggests that while in a perfectly stock 1500cc sp VW max power was attained with a Bugspray and .059 jets, he recommended using a .060 for street use to be a bit richer and to preserve #3 exhaust valve. So, I became worried, and today I put in .060 jets.Ran my measured course again today with the .060 jets and I get slightly faster than the .047 jets. Up to about 67mph. I am, however much more comfortable that I am not overheating #3 exh. So I’m happy.My take on Bugspray vs Solex is that the engine is very noticeably more eager to rev now than before with the stock carb. This is so obvious that one can not ignore it. It is now easy to rev over 5500rpm now where before, it would take forever getting there and I’m not sure that it would. It is important to note here that my old Solex had been rebuilt and was essentially new and in near perfect tune.Also note that I did install a Bosch 009 centrifugal only advance distributor (30*BTDC @ 3500rpm) and took out my SVA stock VW, when I went to the Bugspray. There is no hesitation that you often hear talked about. My engine is now a 1600 single port with oversized valves and an EMPI 3487 exhaust and Edelbrock isloated runner intake and Holley Bugspray 2bbl carb. (I also did a bit of porting on the heads when I overhauled the engine last winter.)I don’t yet know what the bigger jets did to my mileage but I really don’t care (within reason).If I could find an exhaust header that did not destroy the appearance of the car and would fit nicely under the engine cover, I would be tempted to try it. (Fisher seems to think that it would be the biggest performance bang for the buck, – and he’s been spot on so far.)….But that will wait until after Carlisle.I should note here that I do not routinely rev my engine to 5500 rpm and try to keep it below 4500 rpm which is just a tad above 55 mph in 3rd. (And I only do that when showing off.)Royal2013-04-20 16:49:33
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