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It looks like replacing brakes is going to be the first thing on my list for my TD. First time I drove the car after towing it home, the front wheels shuddered when I applied the brakes and finally stopped the car. Once I made it home from this maiden trip, I checked and found no brake fluid in the master reservoir. Pulled off the rear driver’s side wheel and found cracked rubber seals and completely bound up wheel cylinder. Figured that it is time to order brake parts.
In looking at brake parts sources, I came across a kit to replace the front drum brakes with disk brakes. Is it worth the extra $$ (about twice the price of drums, linings, wheel cylinders, etc) to go for the front disks? Will a stock master cylinder work ok with the disk brakes up front?Or should I stick with just replacing the drum brake components all around?Finally, should I replace the master cylinder and rubber brake lines while I’m working on this system?I’ve always heard that when swapping to disk/drum setup you need to add a Disk/Drum proportioning valve so the front brakes won’t lock before the backs.
IMO, unless you’re going to be driving the car really hard on twisty roads where overheating the brakes is a possibility, then disc brakes aren’t necessary at all. Disc brakes will not show “fading” from over-heating as fast as drum brakes do…
You likely won’t be driving the car in pouring rain where having wet brakes is a common issue. Discs shed water better, and dry faster when used, in comparison to drums. ‘So, the two primary “benefits” that disks provide wouldn’t be big factors for a TD replica…IMO:..1. The original drum brakes were designed for a much heavier car, and will provide all the stopping power you likely will ever need.2. If you want to improve the stock brakes, consider using braided steel flexible lines instead of the replacement rubber coated lines. They’ll expand less under pressure, and give the brake pedal a much more solid feel, when using the brakes hard.3. Should you still consider converting to disks, make sure that you use parts that are OEM replacement (such as Karmann Ghia) to ensure future availability of replacement parts. Some kits, especially for the rear, do not use OEM-type parts, and you’d be relying on a single manufacturer for future replacement parts.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Drums work fine for me & have for three years but I am going to put disks on the front. Speedster guys swear by them (one claims 4-wheel disks is the only way to go). the evidence is pretty good.
1. fade-free stops matter not just on the track, but also on long hills. You drive your car for fun this could matter.
2. Rain happens.
3. Disks self-adjust.
4. reportedly, stopping power does improve. I have yet to test Bridget’s 60-0 space. Assume it’s 130 feet or so–which is good. If front disks give me five percent that’s 6-7 feet, and could be the difference between crash and no-crash.
Also: proportioning valves are not necessary for our application. In the hotrod world you will see projects on which they are recommended or even imperative, but in the V-dub world the only guys who use them tend to be buggy and sand guys, and that’s to get much more rear brake grab, because that is the nature of their cars (no weight at all in front, giant wheels out back) and sand dune antics (power sliding is kind of the point).
I have spoken.
edsnova2013-06-14 13:40:39
Example of required disc brakes…MG calendar, November, 2012.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I installed front disk breaks about 20 years ago and have no complaints. Best advantage is not having to adjust. At the time, I needed new shoes and drums so and the cost of the kit was not much more than the cost of the required parts. I believe the rotors are from a type 3. Thinking about installing rear disks this winter.
The fact that you don’t need to adjust disks is a huge plus, but if you run the stock drums on the back, you’re still left with adjusting brakes…
I’m not refuting the fact that discs are better than drums — I was only trying to offer my opinion in response to this specific question:“Is it worth the extra $$ (about twice the price of drums, linings, wheel cylinders, etc) to go for the front disks?”If money is no object, why not?Why not use real, imported leather for the interior, it’s better than vinyl, and lasts longer — and the cost vs benefits questions could go on and on…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Good pro’s and con’s on the front disk brake conversion. After re-checking the price to convert to disk brakes up front and the fact that I need to get the car on the road to really find out what works and what is really, really broken, I’m going to do just a simple refresh on the brakes.
So, I ordered front and rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes and will be doing the quick fix this weekend with the option of doing more (brake hoses, brake lines, maybe even disk brakes) this winter.Right now, I have other problems looming — like not being able to reach the pedals because of low seat height and splayed back seat back and not being able to see the speedo and tach (steering wheel is in the way). More about that after I get the brakes finished this weekend.
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