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You may have read that I had a close call on the road, while out for a leisurely drive, the other day. I was cut off by someone trying to pull in to make a right hand turn. I partially blame my brakes.
So, I am converting to front discs at an increased cost of about $200 more than high quality front shoes for my old drums.The best price that I found was through SoCal auto @ $234 delivered with blank (undrilled) rotors . I got the kit today and it is from AC Industries, made in China (ugh) but looks pretty good and sturdy. I found it interesting that most retailers charge about $50 more for blank rotors than the predrilled ones. Not SoCal.It appears to be a very simple upgrade with the most difficult job being that I have to drill the 4 x 100mm pattern in the blank hubs to accept the Triumph wire wheel adapters that mount my wheels. Also, I have to install the new lugs that the adapters require. Most of you would just order the standard 4 x 130mm VW pattern and be done with it.I was going to powder coat the calipers, but have decided against it since I would have to disassemble them remove all O-rings and seals that may introduce a possibility of brake fluid leaks.So, tomorrow, I will start measuring, drilling, & replacing the wheel bearings and seals.I WILL be done in time and attend the Air & Auto show in Va Bch. Truth is, I plan on being back together in a week.
Roy, just get a can of…(wait for it)…caliper paint. High heat and made for just that.
I use an acid brush to get to all visible areas. Pick your color.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"John, I considered painting my black wheels silver, but seeing your photo,
I like the use of the body color on them.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Bill I do too plus I like his hubs too..
I spoke to a couple guys here withTDr’s and told them to join our groupThanks Bill, actually, the calipers look real pretty when you get them – a sort of gold tone. But, I have a tradition of having red drums and calipers that goes back some 45 years, so off to the store in the morning.
Well, I finally finished the disc brake install on MiGi today. Turns out that I had a few surprises and a 72nd birthday that cost me an extra week.
A. This one is of my own making: I adapted and installed real wires and two eared knock offs from a Triumph Stag. Look great and work well. But they are 14″ not standard VW 15″. This caused interference between the outer caliper and the inside of the rim. After disassembling the calipers I became convinced that there was a lot more metal in the caliper castings than was necessary. Ground each down about 1/4″ and finally gained enough clearance to install without rubbing. Conversion and installation on regular VW 15″ wheels could be done in an afternoon.B. I should have noticed that when I removed the front wheel cylinders and the lines going to them that the reservoir did not bleed down due to gravity. My poor braking problem was due to a failed master cylinder. I had replaced it about a year ago with a new one. I can only guess that it had a 1 year warranty. I had no front brakes because of the failed master cylinder.So, after the conversion, I ended up with front discs, another new master cylinder and about $300 less in my bank account. Are they better than front drums? I am a convert. I had previously voiced my opinion that properly maintained drum brakes are perfectly adequate for our light TDrs. But, after driving MiGi both with good shoes and drums, and now with front discs, there is a world of difference in stopping power.So, I guess I am happy. But, I feel kinda stupid for not figuring out that my one year old master cylinder was the blame right off the bat. The good news is that now I can stop “on a dime”.Just wait until you end up in the wet and the thing stops straight. Congratulations, Roy.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Glad it all turned out well for you. How about a pic sometime? Still trying to find a time when I can get by and see you ride.
Sam
Roy, I’m still working with my carb problems. I’m not sure why it is so difficult. I’ll be taking the carb off again and will probably drill out the main jet per Ed’s suggestion and see if I can adj. the accel pump. Also, thinking of changing to a single vac adv. distr. even if the 30 pict is suppose to run good with the mech adv. distr. Don’t want to change too much at once or I won’t know what fixed the problem. If I can get it running good enough, I may just throw in the towel and take it to the VW guy in Durham.
Sam
Sam, we’re getting off topic here but here’s my experience. I switched to a SVA dist on my PICT 30 carb and all my hesitation problems disappeared. Ran much better.
I would recommend the sva dist with the 30 pict carb as well. even though mine runs well with a dist from a fuel injected car, it ran just as well with the svs, and poorer with the 009 .
The only place I’d run an 009 is with dual carbs when you have no venturi vacuum signal.
Ed
Eddy2013-10-03 22:35:12
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