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I am putting in a new dash.
I also like push button starter switches.
Or how about a floor starter switch?
Whats your thoughts?
How many have a floor high beam switch. If any.
Thanks for your opinions.
Lost
Hi lost.
I think the dash start button would be cool.
My high beam switch is the turn signal lever.
I’d avoid the floor switch for either high beams or starter. Most of the TDr footwells are pretty tight. I wouldn’t want to be poking around for a floor switch.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Maybe you can put the high beam push button switch on the back of the dash to keep it off the floor. Somewhere on the left side and in a spot thats easy to reach.
Mine is behind the dash, left side close to the edge. Easy to reach and out of the way. It only took me about a year to fine out I had high beams. There is a couple other switches under the dash I still don’t know about.
The one on the right is the ejector seat switch. Be careful with that one. 😐
1981 Lafer TI
1600 cc Type 1 engineOpps I forgot that one
or if you are a fan of Jack Lemon in the Great Race you could say
“Push the Button Max”
My high beam switch is floor mounted. No problem. Far left and back of the clutch.
I had a 64 Mercury once with a floor switch that changed the AM radio stations. Dash start button would be cool.When I got my MiGi, she had a dash mounted windshield washer plunger mounted on a very ugly hole in the dash. I took it out and installed a push button start button. Very easy.
But if you really want to go all the way and be super cool, put in a PULL to start, like original TD’s. The switch is readily available on eBay and Moss.
The pull switch sounds cool! Do you still need a key and a starter switch or is it always on and hot? Id love a set up like that Im just concerned of unwanted start ups by curious people.
A pull starter. That’s cool. My antique ford have push starters. Was an original MG TD 6 or 12 volts?
Pretty sure about TD’s having a pull start. My MGTF-1500 did have a pull starter. 12v. Whether you needed a key and whether always hot or powered through the key/ignition is just a matter of how you wire it up. On my TF, it was always hot so if you pulled it, it would engage the starter but would not start unless you had the key and the ignition on. I would not recommend wiring it up that way. Run it through the ignition switch.
Thanks for the feedbac. I think Ill keep the key ignition since I need the security. Sure wouldve been nice to have that retro switch.
Roy is right. The TD start is a pull switch. I did not know it was always hot. The original TD key swirtch also had the light switch on it. The horn button had the highbeam “dipper” until the late summer or fall of 1952, when they moved it to the floor (the high beams, not the horn). Those late model horn switches are now unobtanium.
I went on to Moss motors to look at one. It is an unusual shape. The part behind the dash. I wounder How big it is?. It size might cause problems with it installation.
On our TDr it is amazing how room is up ther comapred to a normal car. Normal cars have so much crammed up under their dash.
As I remember, TD’s had the switch mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall. A small cable thru the firewall connected the switch to the knob on the dash. This way, it would take up almost no room on the dash.
Hey Folks,
I have a pull-to-start switch instead of a start relay on my Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. It mounts under the hood near the starter and is operated by a “choke” cable that has “start” imprinted on it that mounts on the dash and routes to the switch. It is always hot and will operate the starter even with the key off — it still needs the key to turn on the power to the ignition coil.I had a spare setup and installed it on my Tdr.I mounted the switch (about the size and shape of the VW high beam relay under the dash on some of our cars –) on an aluminum bracket and put it on the firewall. I just wired it in parallel with the key start on the steering column, and voila!! Pull start!!I can post pictures if anyone is interested…JackI’d like to see pictures of that. I have never heard of a pull start switch. A starter pedal…yes. Pull start switch…no.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackIt is typical that a starter switch is always hot. I was told that it was so the the max amps goes to the starter.
But you have to have the key turned on to get electricity to the coil. Otherwise no spark so no start.
That is kind of a bad design today because people crank the starter with the key off and wear down the battery. Especially if you have a 6 volt car.
I have learned this several time with my two model A fords. I have done it. People trying to help have done it.
If the12 volt battery is strong enough and the engine easy to start, as in a modern car with a lighter engine (vw) you should be able to wire it through the “on” position on the keyed ignition. That way no run down battery. That would be my plan.
I am waiting for an email from moss on the starter (behind the dash size). A pull starter would be cool.
“I was told that it was so the the max amps goes to the starter. “
The MGTD (and the Bugeye) used an old style starter motor that had a “bendix” spring to engage the flywheel when cranking. No solenoid was used. Therefore, all the current to the start motor went went through the start switch. These firewall start switches are made to handle a few hundred amps for a short period of time.
In our application of only controlling the current to the starter solenoid, these switches should last a few lifetimes.
Googled image of 1939 MG TB center dash panel, nicely restored and labeled. Couldn’t easily find comparable TD pic…
I like how the choke is labeled mixture, like an aircraft engine.
http://ttypes.org/ttt2/1939-mg-tb-roadster-mg-masterKentT2015-03-05 22:40:43Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...MOSS Bugeye starter switch parts:
# 40 switch p/n 145-800 ~ $28.95 plus cable # 48 p/n 331-630 ~ $20.95 and coupler # 44 p/n 161-500 ~ $7.75— a bit expensive if you have to buy all of the parts……..!!!! but it IS COOL!!!!!JackI have found a couple pull switches that are supposed to be momentary contacts that are more like our dash pull switches
Cole Hersee M486 Pull-Type Momentary Switch
Very cool Lost.
Here’s one link to buy the pull:From the same vendor, a momentary push switch that would probably look ok with our dash switches:
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
those switches would be just as good and a whole lot easier to install —
Here’s what I did with what I had on hand leftover from the Bugeye project:
Jack
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