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Looks like more than a clean up. New alternator, 009 Distributor, new hoses and
Where did you put the oil filter?
Lookin’ good Rosebud!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Roy,
Sorry it took so long to respond. There is no oil filter on the engine. Do you see a problem not having one. Tom’s Foreign Autohouse siaid there was no reason for one, just change the oil every 3,000 miles and keep it topped up. What do you think?BillBad Bill
Bill, I asked because I thought I saw one on your “before” picture. What do I think??
Well, I think that these German engineers were pretty darn smart to design an engine that lasted for long and with so few problems. They said to change the oil every 3k miles and that’s what I do (in truth, I probably average every 1500 miles). I run 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil and I don’t have an oil filter either. It’s not even on my list of things I would like to do to my MiGi.
If I outlive my engine, I’ll celebrate its death.
NO oil filter on my London Roadster either . There is a U-Tube video on how to install one . I have tried lots of different oils . Amsoil ,Royal Purple , Lucas racing oil etc . I am partial to Brad Penn 20 w 50 . You need a high zinc oil . When I made the switch to Brad Penn the oil temp ran 180 to 200 degrees
I had an oil and air filter container mounted on the fan sheild when I got my car. I removed it and just ran the hose directly to the air filter. I figure that less is more with my car. I like to keep it simple with the least amount of parts and places for gremlins to hide.
There is more to oil handling on the Type I engine than a regular change. The drain plug is in the middle of a steel plate that is fastened to the bottom of the block by acorn nuts. When the oil returns to the crankcase it makes a 90 degree turn on top of that plate. Solids sling out as the oil changes direction and slows abruptly. You need to periodically clean that plate or the clean oil you just poured into the engine will dissolve the solids and carry them back through the engine.The acorn nuts are soft. Don’t be tempted to replace them with Grade 8 nuts. The studs they screw onto are integral with the block. You’d rather strip the nuts than the studs. The cardboard gaskets between the plate, screen and block compress with time. You have to tweek the nuts periodically until the gaskets bottom out.Just another fiddle on the Beetle design.Why did VW do that? Fram didn’t exist in 1936.If you want more on the subject, read Volkswagen For The Compleat Idiot.Bugapalooza at Camp Jordan in Chattanooga this weekend.I’ll be at Bugapalooza this Saturday. TDR will be home but I always try to go to the larger VW shows. There are usually 325-350 VWs of all types there. I also get stock VW parts that get changed frequently like oil strainer gaskets and washers, cork valve cover gaskets (the rubber one leak a lot), and little odds and ends. Maybe we’ll bump into each other there. I usually get there around 11 and leave for Warner Robins about 3:30 or 4.
Oh! And no special or extra oil filter for me either. Just stock engine parts.newkitman2015-04-15 15:33:16Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackPM sent.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackLooking Good!
What is that crazy contraption on the side of the case where the oil pressure sender goes?And no oil filter on mine either, they seem to be used mainly on high performance engines.
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