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Anyone ever fitter an original hood to a fiber fab kit, juist think that would make a huge difference?
Thanks, T. J.I agree it would look awesome! But…
I doubt it would fit “out of the box.” Our cars are close, but they are not exact recreations.The inner body panels are different as well. There may be no place for the hood latches to attach to (down on the corners of the side panels).On a VW based car, you’d be opening up the trunk space with the vents on the sides of an original hood.That’s just my initial reaction. Not saying it can’t be done. But there will be plenty of challenges.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Also, I wonder how much the side panels add to the structural strength of the overall car body. Removing them may compromise the integrity.
I always thought car companies simply cut the top off of a car to make a convertible, until I talked to car designer and was told, unless planned as a convertible from the start, there had to be internal supports to keep the body from flexing.
I wonder if this may be the case here, too.
Something else to consider…Amor Conquista Todo
Excellent point Steve.
The comment about “production” convertibles is definitely true.I suspect having solid panels down the length of the TDr helps.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
May be more important in the VW based cars, but the fiberfab chassis I am working with is grossly over built, I have even considered chopping it up and lightening many of the tubes. Don’t think it is an issue.
Thanks, T. J.Measure twice, then measure again. Then begin.
You can find original TD hood parts, but they’re a bit spendy. And like Paul says, you will almost certainly have to modify them substantially.The way to go, then, imho, is to use the top piece of hood from your kit, and buy a couple of pieces of flat aluminum (find a truck trailer scrapper) to make the sides. Have them louvered professionally at a rod shop. Then piano-hinge them to your fiberglass bits that already fit. Slice your top bit up the middle and hinge that, get a piece of aluminum or chrome strip to hide that central hinge, and you’re in business.You will save time, money and weight.This is my theory, anyway, which is mine.edsnova2016-01-28 21:42:56
Ed, the worst fitting part of my FiberFab hood is the top. It simply has different curves from the grill, which is OEM TD. I’m spending hours trying to cut, grind, and add moldings to hide the poor fit. If there was one part of the original hood that I would want, it would be the top … but no way would I do that, either. The last thing I need is to go through this fitting process all over again. At least cutting and grinding off fiberglass is easier than cutting and grinding metal.
scubasteve wrote:Also, I wonder how much the side panels add to the structural strength of the overall car body. Removing them may compromise the integrity.
I always thought car companies simply cut the top off of a car to make a convertible, until I talked to car designer and was told, unless planned as a convertible from the start, there had to be internal supports to keep the body from flexing.
I wonder if this may be the case here, too.
Something else to consider…Unbeknownst to many, VW added stiffeners to their convertible bugs and Ghias. They were a piece of formed metal (3-sided box) that bolted down the edge of the car, underneath the floorplan. Having owned a Ghia convertible and knowing that, I bought apair of aftermarket design stiffeners, though I haven’t installed them on my TDr yet.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...“the fiberfab chassis I am working with is grossly over built, I have even considered chopping it up and lightening many of the tubes. Don’t think it is an issue.”
That grossly overbuilt frame will still flex. Several people here on the forum have witnessed the self opening doors on mine. If anything, add bracing.
billnparts 2016-01-29 06:58:20 Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I believe schu also has self opening doors! Of course they are self-actuating, and not necessarily at the proper time! ❗
Who knew such technology was built into our TDr’s? 🙁
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I’m going to go out on a limb here and posit that fiberglass body panels are not a significant structural element on any of our cars.
The TDs had adjustable struts to reinforce the area behind the three-hinged bonnet.And, as far as fitment goes: I doubt the Fiberfabs are much worse than the originals, which TD restorers are always complaining about how much they have to “fettle” to get the body panels to fit acceptably.Schu – Willis?
Didn’t you pop a door open on the Carlisle autocross one year?
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Schu – That is what I was talking about. And I finally picked up on “What ‘chu talkin’ ’bout, Willis?” 😆
TJ – Here’s a reasonably priced starter kit for your hood project:
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
That listing is what started the wheels spinning and I am 1/2 hour from Napa, maybe get them and figure it out as I build the car.
Bill, are you getting torsional flex or rotational? Should I bethinking of some bracing now while it is a bare frame?Thanks for your thoughts.T. J.I made the remark about adding bracing to discourage you from removing any. I’m not sure there is room to add any and not run into fitment issues with the body panels. There is a thread here on secondary door latches that a lot of us have added to keep the doors in place.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"The door safety lock thread:
https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/suicide-door-locks/
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks for the door safety lock thread!
I’ve always wondered how some of you solved the issue of accidental door opening. Years ago, before seat belt laws were so rigidly enforced, a co-worker of my Mom was killed when he fell out of his car and was hit by another car. Always made me lock the doors and wear by seat belt. But my LR doesn’t have door locks, so I was always a bit edgy, even WITH the seat belt.
I’m going to add the latches ASAP!Amor Conquista Todo
Safety Fast.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Well I bought the hood, probably be a while before I find out if it will work, will post my findings later.
If you got it as cheap as those initial bids looked, you did good. Worst case scenario: clean it up and sell it on.
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