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Well after the clutch cable fiasco at the last autocross and the fact my wife cannot depress the clutch pedal anyway I have decided to go hydraulic. the car has sat on stands all winter untouched as I ended up redoing a kitchen. Last month I got around to popping the hood. Today I was out of material for the kitchen so I got to play in the garage. I removed the side panel for access. I already had an access panel above the pedals. A Chevy S10 clutch master found a home below the brake master cylinder and I mocked up bracketry for a Toyota slave cylinder. A few minor glitches to iron out, but I am pleased with the initial mock up. I need to put a dog leg in the push rod for the master as the angle ended up too sharp. I stilll need a fluid reservoir, but the one on my Ford truck looks viable. I’ll need to find another one. I’ll need to make a line between the two cylinders. All in all I’m pleased with todays progress. Tomorrow the millwork is open and it’s back on kitchen duty.
I hope this link works. Still not comfortable with Windows 10.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5E3549366A58D346!1116&authkey=!ANTNCIw6CxCB11A&ithint=album%2c
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"You did a lot in one day, looks like. (And why you messing with your kitchen? Looked fine to me).
Here is my question, which if I understood geometry better I would not need to ask:If you dog-leg that clutch rod where it comes off the pedal, won’t that be pretty much the same as attaching a straight rod lower down? And would that not simply give you a harder push (and shorter throw) on the pedal?The master cylinder has only apx 1-1/4″ of travel. The position of the rod on the pedal allows only that amount of travel before it hits the floor while still retaining decent pedal height. I’m thinking of welding a spacer between two rods. One rod off the cylinder and one off the pedal.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ever tell you how much I hate Windows 10?
Anyway, the slave cylinder I chose did not work out. I bought a slave from Wilwood that pulls rather than pushes. This also simplified the mount. After several disappointing road tests that resulted in clutch slippage and/or improper pedal travel I invested in a reverse bleeder tool that managed to remove all the trapped air in the system. Last night we had an acceptable road test. No slippage and satisfactory pedal return. It grabs a little too close from the floor, but I feel that’s just a minor adjustment at the fork.
Just in time for the snow!!!
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Nice work Bill!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Nice job. Did you modify the side panels so they can be removed easily?
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speed
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