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2 years ago a friend of my late mother gifted a FiberFab 52 MGTD to my son and we ramping up to start this project. When we went to get the kit it was still packed in the wooden crate/ plastic sheeting and all items were in the original boxes. All the stickers are on the body parts with the name of either the person who molded the part or inspected it. It has been sitting for 25 years in a pole barn and surprisingly all is in great shape. Not even mice got to the seats or carpet or conv. top. Brought home some 8-10 cartons of smaller boxed parts, gauges, hinges, lights, hardware kit, etc. Did an inventory and are only missing the J-shaped bumper brackets and both headlight brackets. The original owner started the chassis work on the 68 VW Bug undercarriage. He also welded in brand new floor pans, lowered the front/back per the manual and begun the process of moving the shifter and pedals. We started the wheel bearings and brake work last year in order to move the chassis around after it sat for 30 years, finding both rear wheels were locked up so we had to pull it onto the trailer to get it home. We have all body pieces in heated garage and are planning to get the body done over the winter and then switch to the chassis in the spring. I will have many questions and hope to find answers here if need be. Plan to document this project with pictures as we complete each step. Looking forward to this project and especially completing it with my son and although we are planning on selling it when done we will wait and see but are leaning toward selling so hold unto the thought if you are looking for one because this will be a nice one. My name is Todd and my son’s name is Matthew. So it begins…..
Wow! To have an untouched original still in the box. I am really looking forward to following your build. Again, Wow!
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Welcome. This is the kind of project that we all love. Between Ed, Jack, Paul, Schu, Bill and (even) myself, we can probably answer your questions or at least steer you in the right direction. The more pictures you post, the more good responses you will get!
My only advice at this point in your build is to NOT cut/trim any of the fiberglass pieces on the scribed lines until you dry fit everything. Do not hurry at that stage. Jack and I had a very difficult time correcting the bad cuts made by a prior owner on his last winter’s project. (It was a completed chassis with no fiberglass installed.) I’m not sure (since most of the factory scribe lines were cut off) if I would trust the factory lines.
Don’t forget that “no matter how many times you cut it, you can’t make it longer”. We used (had to) about a dozen or more c-clamps and at least 6 long furniture clamps and a lot of vise grips to make a nice fit.
MG magic ( http://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/) will have the bumper mounts you mention.
Have fun.
Welcome to the group. I look forward to seeing this project underway. Very few of these have been built in the past two decades. Parts are still available through MG Magic tho.
Have you decided on an engine yet?
Are there any suggestions out there on the best way to place and pushdown on the window with the black rubber bottom pad so the rubber will flatten out and the window can be bolted to the body. The rubber is really stiff and I have thought about just using a flat 1″ x 3/16″ rubber weather strip under the window bottom frame. Also, any information on putting the engine cover and the engine / rear surround on? Where is the best place to bolt the bottom engine surround to the fender or body?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Todd, the original TD’s used a “flat 1″ x 3/16″ rubber weather strip under the window bottom frame”. I think that BCW TDr’s also used this kind of strip/seal at the bottom of the windshield. So, my advice would be use what works.
My bottom engine surround is not bolted to the fenders or the body. Simply attached to the engine.
To flatten the weather strip that came with your car…
Heat it, gently, with either a heat gun or hair dryer to soften it. Take care if you use the heat gun. Install it, and get a friend (or two) to stand in the car and press down on the windshield frame, while you drill your bolt holes.
The above worked for me in 1982!
You don’t have to get it totally flat. Just get it so the leading edge bends out towards the front. Mine was not flat, and survived some hellacious rain driving without leaking.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Just wanted to let you know I am still working on the Barn find boxed MGTD project. My son and I had been working on it but mu son got the itch to travel out west for a few weeks. He did that, came back, began dating got engaged and got married (3/18/20 all within a 7 month period. So things have been on hold for a bit and now I am mostly the one working on it, The biggest step in getting back into the build, as I am at the point where engine disassemble and a possible rebuild is going to be happening. I have a source of up to 3 other engines directly on my street that I could purchase but like the current one, I don’t know how much work will be involved. I just need to get motivated to finish this great build project. Any encouragement would be helpful. My son and I really want to finish this replica, drive it for a short bit then find the perfect person wanting one. this possibly could be the last original FiberFab replica kit left in existence. so we want to finish it to the best of our abilities.
Thanks for listening to me jabber on.
Building them is only half the fun, Todd! When you’re done, remember to enjoy the ride for a while.
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