Metric Speedometer

I bet that it would look a lot nicer if he removed the headrests.  Looks like a real nice clean TDr.

On the Mustang that crossarm is what the strut rods connect to and the whole assembly serves as an additional isolation bushing to the subframe. I left it together to help in locating to location of the strut bushing hole and will probably only use that part of the structure welded to the new frame. You are right, my next step is to bolt on the strut arms.

 Looks like a nice build – very clean all around except the engine itself, but that would not take long to correct.Who is going to jump on this one? I agree w/ Ed on the seats, but might change my mind after a few hours on the road.

I’m not familiar with the piece on the rear of the crossmember. The piece with the arms on it that appear to be body mounts. My FF kit does not have that. I see that the factory Ford lower control arm strut rods are not presented.Not quite sure how that gets assembled.

Next step: I plan on making a dummy frame out of wood to make sure everything fits before I make the real one. Then I’ll have an exact model to copy the angles and lengths. I’m more of a woodworker than a car builder so this is easy for me.

I made a shock absorber dummy out of a threaded rod and 3 inches of pipe so I could set the crossmember height. The bottom of it ended up 6 1/4 inches from the floor. The bigger plywood platform is 5 inches tall and will be used to lay out the frame at that height. This is the equivalent of a 1 1/4″ drop spindle.

Big milestone yesterday. I’ve finally stopped taking things apart and degreasing them and started putting the new front end together.

I have a date tomorrow to pick up a complete 1983 2.8 Ranger engine in Front Royal. Same 60 degree block but a few years newer. BTW, this same block was later a 2.9 and then the popular 4.0 used in many Rangers and Explorers. The 2.8 was the last to be carburetor fed.

That is astonishing. I know just the guy to buy one, too… if his kid isn’t already too old.

Now thats just neat,awh the memories.

Roy

or  pay  taxes   ..

Don’t that just make ya feel good inside

Gabor: If you’ve not yet got a v6 for this puppy, some guy in DEL just posted one for $100. (No relation; just happend across it)http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/3450920713.htmljz232-3450920713@sale.craigslist.org[?]

Early mercury capri v6 engine. These were installed in 70’s capri’s
that were made in Germany.It was popular during…[Read more]

Allen I used extra thick glue down pad (for commercial use carpet) in my TD and trucks . Cost about ten bucks at the carpet store for a remnat piece .

Okay guys…thanks. Mid America Motorworks has the beetle sound deadening kit on sale for $30.00 off. Just ordered a set.

I think I’m going to get wood that is 3/8-inch thick. Two seat bases and two more pieces to fabricate the seat fix SCHU came up with. Let’s see…one 4’x8′ sheet would do the trick. Total wood thickness would end up 3/4-inch. Probably go with 3/4-inch thick wood for the seat back.

For what it’s worth, I look for the “forum” link when I come across a page. Works most times. Wonder if we could get that button bigger or put something on the front encouraging newbies to find us there.

Sweet… There is always a way to make something better…  I’ll post up what I come up with!

Here is schu’s seat cushion fix:https://tdreplica.com/forum2/forum_posts.asp?TID=1438& PN=5