Paul,   Ok i read the post  by PingMG. And im sure i can do it IF i had a picture of what he was talking about. Im not a car guy at all so i need some sort of idea on where to start then i can figure it out from there, any help?

Thanks Ringo. I did check the site and my sound didn’t fit in. The sound my car makes is exactly like you take a few pennies in your hand and shake them. I do like the site that you sent the link to, it is a keeper. I had checked the lube for texture, such as metal bits and particles (including sawdust), but it appeared to be just fine. I held off…[Read more]

Yes. While you are stripped down to the floorpan, clean it, derust it, paint it etc.Then swap the front end for an adjustable beam and soften the beam be removing torsion bars. PinkMG (aka Mark) has posted the details for this here: https://tdreplica.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15&KW =vw+beamAnd add the disc brakes, as you mentioned!

Wolfpow;
Well, now you’ve gone and done it!
That’s the best way to do the thing right.
By my way of thinking, you’ve just increased the fun factor by 1000%.  But as my wife would tell you, I’m a sick individual.
Good luck,
Ringo

 Wolfpow, You are going to a lot of work just to redo the dash and trunk! Just kidding,it is plain to see that you are really planning to do it right. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

James;
Did some looking for info and found this site that might help you diagnose the noise.
http://www.differentials.com/diagnose.html
Good Luck,
Ringo

now for you kit car guru’s i would guess then first step is to clean this up and anti rust it and paint it. Then disk brakes?

Ok i will admit im going backwards now, first it was running and driving but i really want to do this up nice for the wife, so here is my UNProgress i guess.

Rich,
Believe it or not, that is a real concern(melting). It frequently gets to over 110 here and sometimes 120 degrees.
But either way I’m so freeking excited! I’ll probably spend a whole week just detailing it after collecting dust in my dad’s garage for 4 years. I’ll be sure to post lots of pics as I go.
   Good luck on your steering! Di…[Read more]

You’ve already fixed the rag joint, but there are also many different universals available from Borgeson. I sues then on all the steering columns I build. The not only allow for clearance probalmes, but eliminate the “spongey” steering feel of a rag joint.
By the way, Pinto, Mustang II and Mercury Bobcat are all the same basic car that shared all…[Read more]

Welcome to the FORUM.
Bill Collins had a “trunk” fabricated for “Angelica”. If you sent him a private message or e-mail him directly at home, I’m sure he’s give you the data. wcoll8374@aol.com
If you hit the spray paint aisle at Home Depot, Lowes or even Pep Boys, there are tons of spray on coatings to use. Remember the “trunk paint” that was s…[Read more]

Geoff,
My apologies for the oversight. That cool TD is shipping from NY to AZ in three weeks! That is AWESOME. Just remember to keep it out of the Phoenix sun. It might melt
Rich

Paul,
You have NO IDEA how much I would love to jump in the TD replica and head on down to Carlisle in May. Unfortunately the economy has bit me on the back side and I have to focus on the INCOME side of the equation this year.
However, I’m starting a 2010, Carlisle or Bust campaign!
Rich

Geoff, James,
Thanks! My search also led to the “Rag” joint solution. Taking the side panel off is going to be a real pain because the “builder” has jb welded components to it (like the solenoid) but it may be worth the effort. Anyway, I think the steering is basically very solid and free of play, so I am expecting a big improvement. I have to say…[Read more]

I had just replaced my rag joint on my steering. I found one on ebay that fits both the Pinto and Mustang II. I then found the same part at Advanced Auto. It is about a quarter inch thick. Mine is like a casting of some heavy rubbery plastic. I didn’t see any fibers in it like busted up one I took off. I could not flex it by hand, but the steering…[Read more]

Thanks for all the tips.
I had started with the process of elimination at the beginning of the investigation…..I have ruled out the tail light lens .
I’ll try the reverse and see how that goes. Thanks again,
I had a U-Joint fail on my Scout on the interstate at 75 MPH. Fortunately it was the one at the rear end and not at the transmission. The…[Read more]

Hey Rich,

   I had the same exact problem about 3 years ago. There is a very easy fix. I found a replacement disk at NAPA auto parts for about $3.00. This one was made out of rubber (It looked like the same black rubber material a radiator hose is made of, just several layers and sewn together). To reinstall it it’s much easier if you remove th…[Read more]

James,
Larry has a good point. If it is U-Joints, shifting between first/reverse should give a definite “clunk”. Jiggling by hand would typically not apply enough torque to be a valid test. Could be something else as well, but these things are all about testing and process of elimination.
RichRichBelfay39900.7197106481

 James, Did you try it in reverse ? If I am thinking right, that would have the same effect on the u joints as deaccelleration . If you check it on the stands, you might try apply the brakes lightly . If the u joints have grease fittings, you could also try lubing them as well. I may be way out of the park on this ,but it would be easy to try…[Read more]

Rich,
Good point. I did grab the driveshaft and twist back and forth, but never put my eye on the U-joints. In the twisting back and forth everything felt firm and tight. Tomorrow it will be sunny and warm, springtime day, so I’ll put her on the stands and check them out. Thanks for the tip. I do believe you’re correct about the drivetrain, if it…[Read more]