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Hi all,
My wifes father passed away last summer and left her his MGTD kit car. I have never worked on a VW or kit before. The car itself isnt in to bad condtion, it just has a long way to go. I got it running and fixed the breaks so it will stop. Not sure how to go about doing the rest of the car. I really want to fix it up nice for my wife but on the same note im an army Infantry guy so i cant afford the actual replica parts from Moss. Here are some pictures to show you what im working with.Thanks for any input.
Hi Wolfpow, Sorry for the loss of your wife’s Dad,however fixing up what was his car will help keep his memory in your hearts. The car looks like a Daytona MiGi to me and it looks to be in good condition. Sometime these cars need more time than money,sometime it’s the other way too,but seldom can you get by without a little of both.I know much about having little and am always looking for a way to do something for less money and still be safe. You’ll get lots of great info and encouragement on this site,so welcome and good luck with your project. Please keep us posted . Larry M.
Hi Wolfpow,
Welcome aboard!
Please accept our prayers and sympathies for your loss.
And thank you for your service to our country!
Keep us posted on your progress. And post all the questions you want. There’s lot’s of experience and knowledge here. We’re all glad to share it!
Take a look in the Download Manuals section (click the link over there in the left sidebar). You’ll find the assembly manuals for a VW Migi II.
You should not need much from Moss.
If you need anything, your first stop for kit parts should be MG Magic.
5666 Rodman St. #6
Hollywood, Fl 33023
Phone: 954-680-2010
Fax: 954-680-0122And you should always post a note in the VW Parts Wanted section letting us know what you are looking for.
Good luck!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks so much for the replies. I have so many questions i dont know where to start. Actually thats my first question. Where do i start. I have a 77 Scout II that ive some what rebuilt but thats my only experience. VW is a whole new world to me. So here is what ive experienced so far.
Got it running and fix the breaks so it will stop. I have little power in 3rd gear and NO power in 4th. I assume my timing is not set right but again i dont know VW so is this normal?
Next i want to refinish the Dash but not sure what to use. I guess thats good for now. As i get going i will post more pictures of my progress.
Thanks again for the prayers. Her dad was race car driver back in the day and she wants it so have some of that feel. Any pictures would be a great start. I have to get her to pick the look first i guess.
Welcome to the Group Wolfpow!
You’ve come to the right place for help and info. You’re gonna have a lot of fun finishing her out.
Get a copy of “How to Keep Your VW Alive” by John Muir. I’ve had 4 VWs in the past and my copy is almost worn out from using it. The VW has some different needs from the Scout and at times takes a different mindset. The power loss in 3rd and 4th may be due to shifting too soon. VWs like to have the RPMs up there at all times and hate to be “lugged”. Regardless, the book will get you on track to get it in top tune.
As for the dash, I just finished mine, (see gallery shots) and can give you some ideas.
Again, there’s a wealth of info available from the members here. There are no dumb questions.
Good Luck, and Thanks for your service.
Ringo
Ringo39893.4620601852
Thanks for the great info ringo. Your Dash looks so, cool. Any advice on how to refinish the wood on mine? For now we want to sand it and finish it but not sure what to use, like regular wood finish or something for out door wood?
Hi Wolfpow
Refinishing your current dash should look great with the least amount of work. You still need to take it off the car to make sure you dont scar up the gauges. Mark all the wires and where they connect. Don’t trust your memory. Once off it’s a simple matter of removing the old varnish with 120 grit sand paper, progressing to 180 until smooth. Be careful around those nice beveled edges. Once stripped and smooth you can restain a different color or use something different.
As for a simple, quick, and protective finish, polyurethane is best. Wipe on poly finish is the easiest. For the ultimate protection you need to brush on Spar varnish. (It’s used for boats!). But you need to use a real good brush and be very careful to keep a “wet ” edge while applying. Sand with 220 grit between coats of varnish. Three coats should be enough with Spar. Spray varnish is available but it won’t stand up to wear and weather.
Once dry, you’ll be real glad you marked all those wires and connectors!
Oh, and while you have the dash off, go ahead and make a template tracing of it so if you ever want to make a new one, you can still drive her while working on the new one.
Let us know how it’s going, ask questions anytime.
Ringo
Ringo,
Thanks for the great answer, im gonna get started on it as soon as the snow melts.One more question for anyone. The wife loves the trunk made by warren in one of these topics? Anyone know what he used to paint the inside, and what was used to separate the gas tank from the rest of the trunk? The pictures look awesome and she wants to work on that part.
Welcome to the FORUM.
Bill Collins had a “trunk” fabricated for “Angelica”. If you sent him a private message or e-mail him directly at home, I’m sure he’s give you the data. wcoll8374@aol.com
If you hit the spray paint aisle at Home Depot, Lowes or even Pep Boys, there are tons of spray on coatings to use. Remember the “trunk paint” that was speckled? Don’t use sparay undercoat…it won’t dry. Eastwood is also a good online source for many types of paints and coatings.
Ok i will admit im going backwards now, first it was running and driving but i really want to do this up nice for the wife, so here is my UNProgress i guess.
now for you kit car guru’s i would guess then first step is to clean this up and anti rust it and paint it. Then disk brakes?
Wolfpow, You are going to a lot of work just to redo the dash and trunk! Just kidding,it is plain to see that you are really planning to do it right. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Wolfpow;
Well, now you’ve gone and done it!
That’s the best way to do the thing right.
By my way of thinking, you’ve just increased the fun factor by 1000%. But as my wife would tell you, I’m a sick individual.
Good luck,
Ringo
Yes. While you are stripped down to the floorpan, clean it, derust it, paint it etc.
Then swap the front end for an adjustable beam and soften the beam be removing torsion bars. PinkMG (aka Mark) has posted the details for this here:
https://tdreplica.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15&KW =vw+beam
And add the disc brakes, as you mentioned!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Paul,
Ok i read the post by PingMG. And im sure i can do it IF i had a picture of what he was talking about. Im not a car guy at all so i need some sort of idea on where to start then i can figure it out from there, any help?Also a little confusion, ive looked at both the manuals one for Migi II and the other one for CRC, just by looking it seems that the CRC is more like my car is this correct?
OK i just had a revelation, looking at other frames from JC whitney and looking at mine, i assume mine is a 65 or later? Is there a way to tell? I wanna make sure i order the right parts.
Wolfpow, Best I can tell by looking at your picture with the body off, you have a pre-1968 VW chassis. I say that because I do not see a u- joint at the wheel end of the axle. 68 and later VW’s have a U-joint at each end of the axle.This allows the suspension to travel up and down with the wheel remaining in a near vertical position.Also the axles are fully exposed and can be seen rotating as the car rolls. Hope I’m at least close to right on this.
Wolfpow,
To be 100% certain,
The VIN for the original VW Type 1 is stamped into the chassis tunnel just behind the access panel for the shift rod connection to the front of the transaxle.
Find the VIN and then check it out here:
http://www.lightner.net/ybdb/serno.html
or here
http://www.dubnetworks.net/vw-vin-decoder.htm
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Ok from best i can gather the VIN starts with a 5 really hard to make out from wear and paint. I assume that makes it about a 63 or 64 which would make sence on how the front shocks are mounted. And i believe the engine is a 74, that one still baffles me the VIN on the crankcase is AH261292, so if you can help figure that one out be my guest. I believe that makes it a 1600cc? Also how do i know it its single or dual port, Would a better picture help?
Thanks for all this help guys.
Wolfpow,
Your floor pan is a ’68 and newer. The easy way to tell if you have a Swing Axle (‘pre ’68) or IRS (’68-up) is to look at the rear wheels. 4 lugs are IRS and “wide 5” lugs are swing axle.
Because either front beam (ball joint or kin pin) can be fitted to a VW floor pan, looking at the rear wheels for this is best. The IRS pans are different in the rear because they have a lower control arm and the swing axle cars don’t. The mounts are welded to the torsion bar tube.
Again Your pics indicate ’68 up IRS pan and ball joint front beam. Your front beam has been cut, turned and re-welded to get the ride height correct, but the suspension is still WAY TOO STIFF. An adjustable beam and removing the secondary (smaller) torsion leaves is the fix.
I suggest you get a copy of the VW “Red Book” from Robert Bentley publishing. Several of us here on the forum have done the front end mod required and can walk you through it.
Front disc braked are great, but the car’s weight is in the rear. I personally would only install 4 wheel discs if you do this swap. BIG difference in braking doing all 4. The spindles/rotors/calipers used in the front on a disc brake swap are Kharmann Ghia pieces. They had disc brakes the last couple years they were produced. I’d invest in stainless steel brake hoses too.
Nothing from a Super Beetle front end will fit your car except the wheels. It’s MacPherson strut, not twin torsion beams.
There was an article in an old issue of the now defunct VW Trends magazine that detailed using a later VW Vanagon master cylinder to include in the disc brake swap. Some of the VW parts houses (Chirco for one) may know how to get this data.
You are lucky with this “refurb” too. The air cooled VW Beetle has a vibrant aftermarket and some OEM German parts are still available. As far as OEM type parts, pay the extra few $$ and get the German made parts if they are available.
Ok so if i understand correctly since my rear tires are wide 5 lug, that means is a pre 68′? Not an IRS but swing anxle?
Yup…
VW’s are very simply engineered and were designed to be easy to work on. Their floor pan (rolling chassis) were made to accept different types of vehicles, hence the suspension was made to have an adjustable in spring rate. Keep in mind that they were designed in the 1930’s by Ferdinand Porsche under the commission of the Nazi Government. They wanted the car to be a versatile platform for other uses besides the “People’s Car”.
Those two front tubes, called twin beams, are filled with flat spring steel plates. There are 4 wide primary plates and 6 narrower secondary plates in each tube. The 4 primary leafs cannot be removed. The spring rate is adjusted by removing (or adding back) the secondary leaves.
The leaves are actually “anchored” in the center by large snub screws and they twist under suspension movement. The smaller the stack of leaves, the easier the twist, hence softer spring rate and vice-versa.
An adjustable twin beam has ride height adjusters where your tubes were cut and rewelded. So basically, you remove secondary leaves to soften the suspension (spring rate) and then adjust your ride height via the adjusters in the adjustable beam.
Besides doing the suspension and brake improvements, I bought a “Freeway Flyer” transaxle. It has a higher 4th gear and allowed for Interstate speed cruising without winding the motor out. They are air cooled and don’t really like long, constant high speed drives. If you are just using the car around town, the stand transaxle is all you need. But if you intend on a lot of highway use, the Freeway Flyer investment is well worth it.
As long as it’s this far apart, there are few things on the engine you should consider doing too. When you get that far, let us know.
By the way, your car is not a CMC. The CMC has a “split” runnning down the center of the “pan” under the grille shell. And yes, it’s a swing axle car and if the fornt end is from the same donor, it’s a king pin front beam. Also, only one year VW had this set up AND was a 12 volt car, the 1967. This year is considered by many VW freaks to be the finest one ever produced.
Your engine appears to be using dual port heads. If they are the original heads for that engine, then it’s not the engine that was originally in that chassis. Dual port heads came after 1970 I believe…can’t remember right now, when all the engines were 1600cc displacement.
Pink MG39906.574837963
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