“Which kit has the most correct body, and uses most td trim. lights, etc?”

It doesn’t matter.  All the kits look pretty much like the real thing.  Just get hold of the Moss Motors and MG Magic web sites and there are plenty of original parts you can either bolt on directly or adapt to fit.  With enough money to burn, you can make any TDR look eno…[Read more]

Dennis,

My vote is with British Coach works (of course I own one).  I have had owners of “tin” TD’s remark how they like the way I was able to add a convenient fuel gauge to my dash and incorporate a more modern MG B steering column on my TD….LOL!

99% of the metalwork on it (at least on mine) is original or reproduction to 1952.

Car is about…[Read more]

FYI. I have a small, home handyman drillpress which is very handy and usefull for many things, including sanding.

But, if you are thinking of buying one especially for the dash project check a dimension called “throat depth”.  ( 😈 Pause while the snickering quiets down)  The throat depth determines the maxium distance from the edge of y…[Read more]

I ended up using a hand drill with the hole cutter. Drill has a level and an attachment for securing the drill and keeping level against what you are drilling. Came out very well so far. Cluster cut, drilled and sanded clean. On to the main dash. Pictures probably Monday. Family duties today.

I ended up using a hand drill with the hole butter. Drill has a level and an attachment for securing the drill level. came out very well so far. Cluster cut, drilled and sanded clean. On to the main dash. Pictures probably Monday. Family duties today.

John, the hand tools that you used can certainly do the job but as Allen was looking for opportunities to buy new tools was providing some recommendations. As I could only buy 1×6 solid rough cut black walnut I had to put the wood through a thickness planer to reduce to 3/4″. Then used a joiner to square the edges and a biscuit cutter to ensure…[Read more]

Toller, I drilled the holes for my instruments into 7/16″ walnut veneer plywood with my hand drill using hole saws I bought for that purpose at Home Depot.  These were 4-1/4″ diameter and 2-1/2″ diameter respectively (as I recall, I had to order the larger one from Home Depot online rather than in-store).  Essentially these are just regular sa…[Read more]

Toller, I drilled the holes for my instruments into 7/16″ walnut veneer plywood with my hand drill using hole saws I bought for that purpose at Home Depot.  These were 4-1/4″ diameter and 2-1/2″ diameter respectively (as I recall, I had to order the larger one from Home Depot online rather than in-store).  Essentially these are just regular sa…[Read more]

As you are starting anew would recommend using a drill press for drilling holes for gauges. I had the greatest success using Forstner bits, followed by hole saws using the drill press. Had problems maintaining them perpendicular to the wood using a hand drill. Would not consider using spade bits as they are really only effective for rough cuts.…[Read more]

I said lacquer because I couldn’t remember the name of the product. I got it at the boat repair shop. I’ll have to get the name of it later. Right now I have my household chores and then back to the dash work. I will start with the instrument cluster and may end up just staining and sealing it. Using the vinyl will mean adding trim and the trim…[Read more]

Allen, depending on how much top down driving and where your car is to be stored, you might want to rethink using Lacquer for topcoat.  I recommend reading some about finishes used in boating.  I lived in sunny Florida for many years and learned a lot about UV inhibitors before I got smart.  But, I left Florida 15 years ago and a lot has ch…[Read more]

Allen
Two questions, as oak has both an open and closed grain structure will you be using a filler and conditioner prior to staining? I have used filler to provide a glass smooth surface when working with oak. The conditioner will provide an even penetration of stain. Second question, why did you decide to use lacquer as your top coat. I know…[Read more]

Not only that. Sometimes you get to purchase new tools!  Sweet!!!!!

Ah the beauty of car building. You get to become a master at:

• mechanical work
• fiberglass work
• electrical work
• wood-working
• painting
• upholstery

…ad infinitum!

Okay. I have all the materials for making my new dash. Going to make a TD center instrument cluster thanks to the template from Roy.
Here’s what I have:

1   quart Mahogany stain
1   quart clear lacquer
1   3/4 inch thick x 48 inch x 12 inch oak wood; for dash
1   3/8 inch thick x 24 inch x 10 inch oak wood; for center instrument cluster
1   piece…[Read more]

That IS crazy!

John: pics of your dash? Your way sounds much easier than mine. Good on yea.

To me the aesthetic key is also adding the vinyl welting between the dash and the scuttle (several photos at link). That stuff covers most of whatever banding you use on your dashboard’s edges, hides any number of minor flaws and lends that overall finished look.

Crazy idea.  What about coating the dash with black Plasti-Dip to simulate vinyl?   🙄

Crazy idea.  What about coating the dash with black Plasti-Dip?  🙄

I made my dash out of walnut-veneer plywood from Home Depot, and sanded and stained it.  Two things I didn’t like.  The veneer chips easily, and the polyurethane varnish I used caught every dust particle in Las Vegas despite my best efforts.  I wish I could have found solid wood and used Cetol like Toller suggests, that would have been better bu…[Read more]

I made my dash out of walnut-veneer plywood from Home Depot, and sanded and stained it.  Two things I didn’t like.  The veneer made tiny chips along the edge while I was cutting it (but repairable), and the polyurethane varnish I used caught every dust particle in Las Vegas despite my best efforts.  I wish I could have found solid wood and used Ce…[Read more]