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  • Toller replied to the topic Introduction in the forum General Discussion 3 weeks ago

    Eric, You will find a file in the Library detailing the wiring for a MiGi. Just start with one wire per switch or gauge and verify the integrity from end to end. One issue that many owners have reported is problems with the ground/earth/negative. As our cars have fibreglass bodies you have to run ground wires to each light, gauge etc. You may…[Read more]

  • The classic black script on white face looks like something from way back when. Tried zooming in but can not see a manufacturer mark on the face What make are they? Is the speedo a GPS model or is it a mechanical one? Unfortunate that there is not enough real estate on the dash to fit the two additional gauges you hung below the dash but…[Read more]

  • Dale
    Assuming you are using a cable driven VW type of speedometer can you not just cannibalize a VW speedo and transplant the components into your defective one. Have read on either this forum or Speedster one that there is an outfit in US that can do repairs/transplants but have not bookmarked site as I use a GPS speedo. Ed is active on the…[Read more]

  • Allen
    Any idea how the nut was damaged and how long you have been just adding fluid to the reservoir

  • Phil
    What do you mean by issues? With shortening of the pan the following are also shortened
    Shift rod
    Fuel line
    Brake lines
    If manual transmission the clutch cable is affected
    Likewise for the throttle cable
    If reusing the VW wiring harnesses that will be slack created in wires to rear lights, coil, generator light, etc

  • Toller replied to the topic Horn in the forum Chevy/Ford Kits 9 months, 1 week ago

    Although my TD is built on VW chassis the wiring for a horn should be similar to what you are dealing with. The horn button will close a circuit to the silver box aka horn relay and will be connected to either pin 85 or 86. When the horn button powers the relay a normally open contact will close in the relay routing power to the horn. Pins 87 or…[Read more]

  • Philip
    Have a look at this link which list all the screws and bolts used on a TD. They used Phillips, slot and Whitworth bolts to hold everything together

  • Toller replied to the topic Car leans in the forum General Discussion 1 year, 6 months ago

    You are going to have to provide some additional info. Is the car a VW pan or Chev/Ford chassis? Can you post pics? What is the difference between the left and right, measuring on a level surface, measure from floor to common chassis points on left side and right side. Pushing down on the tub on the right side then the left is there a…[Read more]

  • Gregg
    Fabbing a ring to go around the entire opening in the engine cover would help distribute the weight and minimize vibration that will cause stress cracks. Unfortunately I can’t provide pics of what I did as I put the car into storage last weekend. As PO installed an after market oil cooler in same place as original cooler I think that I am s…[Read more]

  • I removed the fibreglass wheelcover when I did the restoration of my FF TDR I fabbed a bracket from 3/16 steel similar to one sold by MG Magic and mounted it to the engine cover with 4 bolts that I reinforced with additional fibreglass. I added four rubber spacers around the opening so the spare does not rest on the engine cover. I also added…[Read more]

  • Toller replied to the topic Lights in the forum General Discussion 1 year, 9 months ago

    Exactly what I did, using marine grade switches with 15 amp ratings and 15 amp rated relays. I also separated circuits between ignition switched loads and switched loads on two marine grade spade fuse panels. Also upgraded grounds so there was no difference in resistance for any electrical loads, essentially a copper buss bar in front and…[Read more]

  • Bill had recommended this product available from Amazon when I was recovering my seats. Easy to install and work well. I did my own wiring and switch to match the other switches I have
    Dorman Part# 628-040

  • Bob
    Assuming the fuel sender and gauge functioned properly in the past then the ohm ratings for both are in synch. Ie 0-90, where 0 is empty and 90 is full
    If there is no indication of fuel on the gauge then check that the wire from the sender is connected to the correct tab on the gauge. Usually there is three, four or five tabs on the gauge. A +…[Read more]

  • Toller replied to the topic "What year?" in the forum General Discussion 1 year, 11 months ago

    In my case it depends on the level of interest expressed by the individual asking the question. Sometimes the response is a 52 replica, other times more detail is provided, 68 VW chassis with a 72 VW motor and a body manufactured in 82 designed to replicate a 52 MG TD. To further confuse some where I don’t care for their attitude it is a 52 VW TDR

  • If the pressure gauge is electrical vs mechanical you can test the gauge by grounding the wire at the sender. Should get a full sweep of indicator needle when grounded. If not the gauge may be defective. You can also test sender with a VOM meter by reading resistance when engine is off and when running. If there is no difference in readings then…[Read more]

  • I replaced all my old 2” VDO black face gauges with new VDO Royale white face ones. The originals were made in Germany and the new ones I suspect are made in China but as I wanted white face I had little choice in the price range.

    I too had 60-80 psi oil readings with the new electrical gauge. It was suggested on this forum to test the r…[Read more]

  • “The fender you just crushed is likely irreplaceable.”
    In which case you call Ed to perform the repair or to fab a new one

  • With Allen’s last note I now understand his reference to a relay. My TDR was using a 69 Bug chassis which apparently did not use relays. As my Ghia is a 71 and Allen’s donor chassis was a 71 they must have introduced the use of relays instead of relying solely on switches for powering loads on VWs between 69 and 71. Hence go with his dir…[Read more]

  • On my FibreFab TD there was an old style foot activated switch located to the left of the clutch pedal that allowed selection between high and low beam. The circuit ran from the dash mounted headlight switch to the hi/lo beam switch and then separate wires from the the hi/lo switch for the high beam element and another to the low beam element on…[Read more]

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