Yep, Ed & Kent are both right.  

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Just, FYI guys: ethanol has a much higher octane rating than gasoline. That’s why they run it in dragsters. Whatever harm ethanol might cause to some fuel systems, detonation and preignition ain’t it.

Sam, put the doors on and come up to the VaBch Air&Auto show.  

Hopefully, the gas will not be an issue. I’m using non ethanol gas. Have to get some new points and rotor for the distr. tomorrow, if I can find them locally at Adv. Auto, etc. Thanks all. I’ll let you know how it works out. At the moment I’m in the middle of removing the inside door latches and refinishing them. They were dull and rusty. Used…[Read more]

That carb and distributor setup should work together fine.  With today’s ethanol, you may get ping at 32-34 BTDC, but it doesn’t hurt anything to try it.  I’m theorizing that you may have to reduce it to about 30, or use 89 octane, but you won’t know until you try it.  No two distributors of even the same model have the exact same advance curve…

Looks like I sent you the original disty for my engine, Sam–the one they took out when they put the 34 PICT 3 in it. 

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I doubt you would notice any difference between the K and the T.  Try it.  I’d set the ignition at 32-34 deg BTDC @3500 rpm.  Experiment around a bit, – if it pings while accelerating under load in 3rd or 4th, it’s advanced too far.  

Ok, I seem to always have another question. My thread on carb adj. had moved to distr. replacement as the next step so this seems like a better place for my question. Ed was kind enough to send me a spare distr. he had on hand and I recvd. it today. The part number on the distr. is 113 905 205K which is for a 66-67 1300/1500 engine. The info I had…[Read more]

Thanks for the help.  Will take your suggestions and see what happens.

Just an observation.  Though I am a firm believer in synthetic oil, I do NOT use it in a new engine or newly rebuilt engine until I’ve put a few thousand miles on it.  IMO, it inhibits a proper break-in, such as with crankshaft/camshaft bearings, clearances, piston rings properly seating, etc. 

Like them to – more hot rod – they way I like them – Mech fuel pumps – got to love the 10% corn – carry an extra fuel pump just for that reason.

RonS. You say that your engine was just rebuilt. Just wondering about engine break-in. Here’s a link to how an air-cooled vw engine should be broke-in. Might shed some light.

Engine has 5000 miles on it ,  use Mobile 1 synthetic oil,  carb set right,  runs like a champ.   park it at Walmart or car show and you can count on it smoking at start.  Have a long time VW mechanic  that built the motor and he can’t figure it out.

Have you tried starting it up run it 20 min shut it off 10 min see if it smokes on start up . At one time I owned a 1985 nissan truck . I thought it was burning oil. (smoke looked blue) It turned out to be hot air meeting cold with reflection off the dark colored truck. made it look blue.   

Unattractive spare tire mount…wheel cover hides it and houses the third stop lamp.

Glad that was a quick fix, Bill. 

What schu said. 

Yeah, it’s good that it broke and you got it fixed quickly.  The more I look at your wheels, the more I like them.  Why didn’t you do the spare?  

What’s wrong with this sequence?Used the car for work today. 45 degrees when I left. Car ran great until noon when the car fell on it’s face and died. Fuel pump died. AAA got me home, grabbed a new pump at work and had the car running by 6:00 PM. Glad this didn’t happen on 95 in DC. We’ll try again tomorrow.