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Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of changing out a 1600cc VW engine to an 1834 and changing out a single carb (dual port) to a duel carburetor set up? How much power would I gain and is it worth it? (I know, a value question that probably only I can answer)
I don’t know, but the Speedster guys mostly consider the 1835 with dual Kads the minimum. Cammed right and with proper tins they say its dead reliable and maybe 80 hp. That’s about 20-25 more than a good-running stock 1600 will give you, and while that may not sound like a lot of raw ponies, keep in mind it’s a 30 percent boost over what’s in there now. You will feel it a lot more than if you put a K&N filter on a ‘Vette and got 25 more horses from an engine that already makes 400.
Did some checking and conversations this winter Dual carbs increase by 10 % a 1775 is another 10% and 1834 is another 10% so roughly your looking at 75 to 80 hp. outright pro built your looking at about 4000.00 doing it yourself your engine and 2000.00 a simple long block is also 2000.00. I’m thinking of upgrading but only going to a 1641 dual carb seems like most bang for the cheap buck
As soon as the son goes down here in Phoenix, I’ll pop over to my local supermarket and see what they have. Otherwise, there use to be a used book store with a big magazine rack in my neighborhood. I wonder if he is still there?
opps a typo: I meant sun, not son.
MGLondonRoadste40703.9676388889I run a 1641 dual port with dual 34mm Dellorto carbss, and an Engle cam with a Euro muffler. Runs fine and all the HP increases are “bolt on”. I know also that you can use my set-up and change the throiw on the crank to a longer throw and get the same HP as a 1776 and don’t have the hassel of milling the case and heads to fit the larger pistons.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackWell, I’ll put the bigger engine on my wish list. I’d like bit more power out of it, but she’s just fine for in-town riding right now. 1835 sounds good, and I see on-line that there are even ones over 1900. Hmmm. I’ll keep dreaming…
I got the magazine and I couldn’t get into the store or out of parking lot without a lot of attention. I’ve been polishing the chrome, and I’ve a long way to go in my eyes, but she is very catchy right now. The Hot VW mag has a write up about the Phoenix Bug-o-rama that some of my neighbors just told me that they went to. VW of all shapes and sizes. Drag racing, prizes and shows. I’ll put that on my calendar for next year. I wonder how many had bodies like a ’52 MG?
Without going to aftermarket heads, you will not notice HUGE jump in power by just adding displacement and more fuel.
Bigger cc’s require more flow to make power…just adding more fuel to a restricted flow won’t get it done. Nor will adding a hot cam to OEM spec heads.
Dual Kadrons (Solex) or Dual 35 PDSIT’s (Solex) on a stock motor will wake it up a little. But you will see a huge difference in “yank” when the heads/cam/displacement/fuel delivery are matched.
Unless you want to spring for a performance long block and do all the work yourself, you’re talking more $$ than you probably paid for the car.
The Type 1 VW engine started life at 1100 cc’s and the basic block has not changed much since then. It grew to 1600 cc’s with improvements to the air and the oil cooling. Once past about 1776 cc’s you have to enhance this with remote coolers, full flow oiling, oil filters, deeper oil sumps, etc.
To avoid spending a small fortune on Type 1 engines, enthusiasts installed Type 4 VW engines that started life at 1800 cc’s and grew to 2000 cc’s during their short life. Although expensive and rarer, they cost less in the long run and much more reliable than a Type 1 “on steroids”.
A “hot rodded” Type 1 VW engine is for people that like to work on their rides. If you aren’t comfortable trouble shooting and working on your engine, you could be talking a huge migraine, not a fun ride.
Pink MG40704.4891898148
Found this on Ebay. Wish I had the cash on hand. Could be a sweet ride.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Complete-Motor-1915-trike- sand-rail-bug-speedster-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45fac1f4 8eQQitemZ300559758478QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcc essories
Pink?
One of their engine color options is Pink.
If it brings more women into the sport I’m all for it.
This is West Coast Core’s web site
http://www.westcoastcore.com/servlet/StoreFront
Anyone ever hear of these guys?
Their engine prices, for the most part, sound TOO cheap. You know what they say, if it sounds too good to be true….
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I agree with Paul. The Samba and the Speedster site are full of angry sob stories from folks unhappy with their mail-order mills. There are some companies with good reputations, but they’re not the cheapest builders.
If I were buying a prebuilt or crate, Ild go with Autocraft, Mike and Barry are great guys and have been working VWs for a lifetime. Seconf choice Air cooled Technology Jake is a great source and is a hands on person. Both have custom plans and offer build kits that you can build or add on as you go. This isn’t JC whitney or Mid American. You pay for their exprtise. Mike is helping me with a build and we’re headed for a 1776 Dual, they have me on a time line and I’m learning as I go. Both offer multiple packages and great service. Turn Keys are expensive.
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