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This was the engine when I bought it. The entire front of the car was gone except for the hood and the engine. I took a chance because the engine turned just by turning the fan by hand. It worked out because the engine does run and when I took the pan and timing cover off it was spotless inside. Must have been a recent rebuild.
There’s a jam nut on the one end that has right hand thread. Can’t put one on the end that’s left hand thread.
I really want to use a manual shift trannie instead of an automatic. As you all know, there is not enough room in these kits for three pedals (and my size 11’s). I’m strongly considering cutting out the entire transmission hump, just like in an original T, and building a smaller hump. I don’t know if I want a removable hump or not but I definitely want a narrower one. Has anyone else done this? This is what Morris Garages did in this area:
One thought, in case you haven’t already thought of it, is to cut the tunnel out and then cut a section out of the middle (however much you want to narrow it) and then glass it back together and then glass it as necessary back to the floor or as you mentioned…make it removable. Will save a lot of work over building a whole new tunnel. Just a thought.
SamHave considered just taking a slice out. Also considered taking some flexible poster board and creating a form to glass over. I have plenty of glass mat available since I bought one 50′ roll on-line for same price as two lousy packages at my local boat store.
This has been really fun to follow and so far over my head that I could never hope to do it. Im looking forward to following it to the end.
If it were me I’d consider a spun aluminum wok lid for the bell housing cover. The rest is pretty squared off and could be made out of a re-purposed “BRIDGE OUT” sign or other easily-obtainable aluminum stock.
If the actual transmission is small enough that the existing tunnel is the problem, width-wise, I’d say it’s an absolute must. But are you mocked up with a 5-speed?
Ed, If using a wok lid, wouldn’t there be a danger of wanting to go for another ride shortly after finishing the last. How would one ever get any work done? 😀
20+ years, three pedals, size 13’s…Practice.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"My BCW Chevette based has an indention in the hump in the gas pedal area. That gives about an inch or so more width to this space. Also keep in mind that the pedals do not fit directly against the firewall.The available space increases as you move away. How much room do you have between the hump and the transmission? Any extra space would allow you to make the indention I referred to above. It will still be tight at best.
In the photo of my feet, I’m sitting on the kit’s seat platform and there are a few inches between my soles and the firewall. There is maybe 1 1/2 inches of space to the left of the transmission. Just enough to install a skinny gas pedal. I’m also going to move the left side panel out by about 1/2 inch towards the double wall. Every little bit will help. Not afraid of cutting up and moving fiberglass around. Sure is easier than welding rusted out floor panels.
OK, finally got enough nerve to cut the old hump out and start with fiberglass surgery. This is the pan without the hump. I’m going to get a few inches back next to the seat also. Notice how lost a standard trannie looks in a place where an auto was meant to be.
Ready for my first cut
Cut into three slices, eventually I’ll have five pieces.
Here’s my Frankenhump….ready for first glass.
Much narrower…..
When I first cut it, it looked like a mistake, but after the second slice (now in five parts) it just fell into place and looks like it’ll end up like it was meant to be that shape all along. The one negative with this is that it will be nearly impossible to remove trannie without pulling it all out along with the engine. But the front clip is so easy to disassemble that pulling the engine will never be hard.
Drove to Baltimore today to get a custom driveshaft made. Told them I have an 85 mile drive and they made one from scratch in one hour. Place is called A-1 Driveshafts and I can definitely recommend them. All new except for my front transmission shaft, included new U-joints, all done for $200. Not bad.
I found this in the pile of stuff that came with the kit. What is it? Does it even belong in the kit? There’s only one.
I’ve been looking for the one I took off mine. Can’t find it and can’t finish the back end until I do.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"You can just barely make out the bracket in the first post in ” Gone and Done It”. The weight and vibration of the plate caused stress cracks in the side panel it’s mounted to, so I placed a support leg on the outer corner of the plate to the fender to keep it rigid.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
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