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Um, guys?
Think about what would happen if your passenger door opened at 70 or even 60 mph.If the door did not blow off (or probably even it it did) you would change lanes very rapidly without signaling or even steering. That’s for starters. Assuming you had enough presence of mind not to over-correct for that and throw yourself into a spin, damage to the car at that point would be the least of your concerns.I think the stop straps–and the original bolts–are designed to prevent damage in low and no-speed situations. Kids playing with the door. Idiot owners pulling out of the driveway after forgetting to close the doors. Stuff like that there. For my money a piece of interior vinyl folded over twice and held with six wide-head interior trim screws does the trick.To prevent highway openings you need to1. build or mod the car so it doesn’t flex too much and/or2. install a second “safety latch” at the front of the doors.Just my 2 centavos.edsnova2013-06-11 09:33:18
gkesseru, truly beautiful work. I really don’t like the door strap idea at all. I prefer to be able to open the door wide if desired. The idea that a strap would eliminate damage if a door were to fly open is (in my opinion), folly. If you agree that the best defense is a good offense to keep the door secure you may want to reread this older thread: https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/suicide-door-locks/#post-249914
Not only good work, gkesseru, but good descriptive explanations and photos. Thanks.Once again, you (Ed) and I were thinking and typing along the same line at the same time. I agree with all you said.
One of the reasons that I bonded the entire body into one strong piece is to minimize body flex. Also, it’s a box frame and not a VW floor pan, so I expect the body flex to be much less. I do plan on having a secondary safety catch, possibly a marine hook and eye like I saw some of you have at Carlisle. In other words, I am addressing Ed’s number one and number two. Even though I had already considered these improvements, having real world feedback is priceless. That’s the benefit of the combined experience of the members.
You’d probably surprise yourself at how fast you can reach out and grab a wayward door. Regardless, a secondary locking mechanism would be wise.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"And Bill proved that in 2012! We have the video!
I second (third?) the motion for the safety latches.
I drove for almost thirty years without them. These guys convinced me they were a good idea. That and teh fact that the latches are now thirty years old…I feel MUCH better with the safety locks.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
My race car builder friend looked over my creation and suggested that I needed a diagonal cross brace across the back and two vertical diagonals to make the rear really tight.
And here are the vertical diagonals….
That is going to be one SWEET ride, when you’re finished. With that engine, frame and one-piece body, and the light weight of these kits, you’ll have one serious sports car…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Man, that just keeps looking better and better.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Love that color! What color will the interior be? That would look nice with the antique, dark red…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Looking great!
Love the progress!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I have the entire bright red interior that came with the kit. It’s in just-bought shape. 26 years old and it looks like it was packaged yesterday. My wife, however can’t stand red interiors, so I am pondering selling the interior kit to one of the folks here and going with a light gray, about the same color as the interior is painted right now. Maybe with a touch of color in the seat piping…
It’ll look a lot better red. White would work too, and feel better. Gray would work if the car was red or deep blue.
How could your wife hate the TD’s interior? Surely, even red, it won’t look anything like whatever hideous thing convinced her she hates all red interiors–which was probably a ’76 Caprice Classic or Torino wagon in red velour crush or something.edsnova2013-06-25 20:15:21
I’m trying to use the Mustang seat bottoms since so many of you complain about dead butt syndrome. Had to cut the back outside corner off of each one to fit the body.
Mounted master cylinder and proportioning valve with all of the brake system plumbing. Now have brakes, clutch and throttle pedal all mounted and working. Soon will take first drive around the driveway. (wiring will be faked just enough to start and run).
I see you have a collapsible steering column installed. Who supplied the components for that?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I made the steering column. The lower part was from the Mustang II. I used the inner column and welded in a 3/4 shaft (from a ridermower axle) in the hollow section and the lower U-joint. The D shaft fits directly in the upper U joint from Ebay. The steering column itself was made from the inner shaft from a Chevy pickup. I then used lawnmower flange bearings from Ace store with a 3/4 inch inner diameter. This directly fit on the inner shaft. For the outer section, the flange bearings directly fit into a 1 1/4 conduit from Lowe’s which slipped into a piece of fencing tube also from Lowe’s. I mated the two tubes with a couple of aluminum pop-rivets so the outer tube could collapse easily when needed. I’ll see if I have any photos of the process.
Which mustang version and year did you use for the seat springs? It looks like it will work.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThe seat bottoms came from the front buckets of my 76 Mustang II donor car. I also used the foam rubber from the seat back of the back seat.
Here is the building of the steering column.
First shot is the lower shaft and the home-made steering column. Notice the column is composed of one tube inside of another to make it collapsible.
Next shots shows individual parts, hardware store flange bearing, hardware store 3/4″ collar, and both inner shafts with a 3/4 shaft welded in to the tube end.
The steering wheel in bolted to a Grant steering wheel adapter.Monday: Drove out of the garage under it’s own power. Of course it has no body panels on at all.
Wednesday: Drove down to the Stop sign and back. 1/4 mile each way. Some loose nuts and bolts.
Friday: Mounted windshield. Adjusted toe-in and tightened spindle nuts. Drove down the back road (1/2 mile). Steering felt just like a tight little car.
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