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Remember new guy so be nice!
I do not have my car in Jersey yet and I want to order stuff that I know has to be replaced so here it goes:I don’t know the year engine because there are no numbers stamped on the engine I could find. Every placed I looked up says the number will be stamped on the right half of the case under the generator/Alternator/oil filler mount plate….there is no number there like I have seen in pics.I have a Solex H30/31 Pict carb (stamped on carb) and I need a rebuilt kit for it but I see there are Pict 1 , and 2 and 3 and 4’s and I don’t know which it is, or does it matter?I need ignition wires, cap and rotor(there is no vacuum advance mounted to the distributer)
Thats a start, The only ID plate I found on the car were 2 stickers that said “Chassi by CarGem” in Michigan I think. if that helps. But nothing on the engine that I could see.Thanks
GeorgeGeorge, My kit came with all sorts of extra gaskets for use on all 30/31 carbs. Sorry, but I can’t remember where I got it from. I would bet that it really doesn’t matter as that is the way most if not all are packaged.
A note of warning here: You may want to make absolutely sure that your gas tank is clean. It makes no sense to clean the carb and then run some of the stuff that comes out of a tank that has been sitting for years. Good luck here, if it is gunked up I recommend a new one as I have invested a lot of time cleaning them (trying).Your distributor is probably a Bosch 009 which is the centrifugal advance replacement found on most all of our engines and works ok with the 30/31 carb. The 30/31 is generally preferred to the 34 but may need rejetting depending on what engine you have. If it is a dual port engine you can be fairly sure that it is a 1600cc (or larger if rebuilt) and you may want to go up a jet size on the 30/31. If your engine is single port, it is likely a 1500cc ( but possibly smaller).Depending on how well stocked your parts suppliers are where you live, you may be best off buying locally. Maybe a bug shop in your area? He would probably have all this stuff.Sorry, but Julie and I will be a bit late arriving at your party. Save some of the Glenfiddich and caviar for us.Roy just proved he’s not a Jerseyite!
Beach party with Glenfiddich and Caviar? Really?
I do second his comment about the tank and fuel lines.George, your info as to where to find the engine case numer is accurate. If there is no number, you likely have an aftermarket block. No worries.
Got a pic of that distributor? Roy is right again. If not vacuum advance, likely a Bosch 009. that’s the most common aftermarket disty.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
George, got my carb kit from Advance Auto (Auto Zone also has them and O’Reilly’s). You most probably will have to have them order it, but will only be a day to get it.
Sam
Thanks Roy. As far as the Tank and lines I had done exactly as you said, I had the tank drained and I cleaned it out. I was very surprised it was in as good as shape as it was not very much varnish on the sides at all. Compared to the carb was caked with that and other crap. I disconnected the fuel lines and sprayed carb cleaner and pushed clean gas with a plastic syringe through the lines and the pump. I plan on replacing all rubber fuel lines when the car is back home as they were somewhat dry rotted.
Paul, I???ll have my brother take a picture of the engine to give you guys a visual on it. I looked at numbers stamped on the distributer and it was a darn long one that ended with ???009??? thats all I remember
so your guess and my assumption is prolly the Bosch 009. I am positive it is a ???single??? port engine, there is no split going into the head. At lest that???s what I read about the difference between single and dual port engines. The only other is there is a tube attached to the intake (on the underside) that goes from the left side muffler to the right side muffler.
As Sam mentioned I have Auto Zones and Advanced auto stores out the ying yang around here and I can surely wait for the order.
Roy, I???m more a Jack Daniels and beer man myself, but I can have some Glenfiddich for special occasions at my pool, just not a beach party! LOL Now Caviar???sorry but the first time I had it in ???75 with East German Soldiers(yes I know Im dating myself) I almost barfed up all that good German beer. The last time I had in Iraq with some locals that had it imported, well fish eggs doesn???t go well in 125 degree weather. Lost my lunch again..
One more thing , the car has front disk brakes and drums in the rear ..if that matters for figuring the year of the frame. This is a great start, and I can’t wait to get back to Va. and tow it home
Again Thanks
George
Yes, the last three numbers on the distributor ID plate identify it as a 009…FYI — The disc brakes are not standard on a Bug — they only came standard on the Karmann Ghia, which used a wider floorpan. Someone likely used the frontend off a Karmann Ghia and bolted it onto the donor Bug’s floorpan…
KentT2013-08-23 11:59:19
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...George, that’s ok about the Glenfiddich & Caviar. I’ll slum it.
I just found something on my MiGi that made me turn white with fear: There is a fabric covered fuel line hose that runs from the tunnel to immediately in front of the front engine tin. It was too long and laid on top of the port driveshaft. It was within a whisker of being rubbed all the way through and thus emptying the gas tank right in front of the 3&4 exhaust. I told my friend Happy Jack about it and he had the same problem on his TDr. Be careful here.Those “tubes” you mention on your manifold is for carburetor heat – a good thing.Front disk brakes are nice but is a possible a prior owner upgrade. Does it have swing axles or “IRS”?If this car has been sitting for a long time, don’t expect the brakes to work. No use is abuse.(ps, If I really drank Glenfiddich and liked Caviar, I would likely own a 356.)Roy, I don’t know what kind of rear it is, actually I don’t remember because I wasn’t paying attention to the rear but I did look at the CV joints, do they call them CV joints on VW’s? To see if they were torn, dry rotted and such.
Paul ask for distributer pics here they are, now I did loosen up some of the wiring because I had the coil off so i did not zip tie the wires back yet..
George, since you are a single port engine, it is prior to 1971. Of it has dual reliefs, it is 1600cc and a 1970 case. If single relief, it is 1969 or earlier and is 1500cc or smaller unless big jugs were installed during a rebuild. The dual relief engines have smaller head bolts (this is a good thing) and larger 10mm oil passages (instead of 8mm). Maybe this will help you identify which engine you have.
GeorgeB wrote:Roy, I don’t know what kind of rear it is, actually I don’t remember because I wasn’t paying attention to the rear but I did look at the CV joints, do they call them CV joints on VW’s? To see if they were torn, dry rotted and such.Were those “CV joints” that you saw out on the ends of the axles near the wheels? An IRS has CV joints on both ends of each rear axle. If so, it is an IRS suspension, that came on 1969 or later Bugs.If the only joints on the axles were inside, close to the transmission, then it is a “swing-axle” and those are true CV joints under the rubber boots. Those transmissions were used on 1968 and earlier bugs.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I believe there were CV joints on both ends of the axles, or I noticed boots on both ends. So far with you guys amazing knowledge of the VW’s it looks like I have some what of a 69-’71 VW with a Karman Ghia front end. The last thing I have to do is open the valve covers look inside and determine if its a 1500 rebuild or a 1600, That will have to wait until I get back to Va…Cool beans!!!
69 or 70. A 71 would have dual port heads. Single or dual reliefs will tell if a 69 or a 70. Looking inside the valve covers won’t tell you anything about engine size. If 69 then 1500cc if 70 then 1600cc (probably).
Royal wrote:69 or 70. A 71 would have dual port heads. Single or dual reliefs will tell if a 69 or a 70. Looking inside the valve covers won’t tell you anything about engine size. If 69 then 1500cc if 70 then 1600cc (probably).IF it has never been rebuilt. Few people rebuilt 1500cc engines and used the smaller jugs, because the 1600cc ones would easily bolt in with improved performance and no negative side effects such as overheating…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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