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Ed,
Re: the 2×4 in the grill shell….
Classic Roadsters Ltd called for a curved piece of wood under the top of the grill shell. You cut it out of a 2×4. It fits up under the grill shell, along the lines of where teh hood meets the grill. I’ll show you in May!
It has nothing to do with air flow, since the VW based car is built the same way. It simply strengthened the grill shell.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Yep, my old FF is nothing but fiberglass though it has the one-piece nose and the grille “vanes” formed which makes it quite strong and not subject to flexing in any direction… After I shaped, trimmed and added the OEM MG chrome/brass grille shell, it seems VERY sturdy.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...bbxr
No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
Okay all you information gurus. I trying to put a top on the duchess and I have a OEM top frame which as we know falls short of the windshield. But that’s not the question. The MG Magic site says the Duchess should be 50 1/2 inches from boot to windshield. Mine is 52 inches. what I need to know is; will the extra inch and a half mess up fitting a MG Magic top on to the frame?
No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
I’d say yes. It’ll mess you up.
Why? Well, here’s my logic. My roof extends over the rear body work by about an inch, maybe an inch and a half. If the body were two inches longer from windshield to boot, my roof wouldn’t fit.
Stands to reason that same logic would apply to your situation.
One other thing to consider, I always thought most of what MG Magic had in terms of body parts were FiberFab oriented. If the roof the are selling is for a FF, it won’t fit a Duchess.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
How is the angle of the windshield? The bottom of the windshield frame post on mine uses two bolts to secure it to the body. Slot the body for the bottom bolt to adjust the angle. A small adjustment at the bottom will make a large difference to the position of the windshield frame top. You can easily pick up your 1-1/2″.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Brilliant!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I recently received the following from MG Magic in response to my question about whether their top would fit my Duchess:
The Duchess is a difficult fit for our top as I believe the cockpit is larger.
Please measure your kit compared to the details in the description portion of the MG top.
I believe along with moving the bows you need more material around the sides.
Thanks,
MG Magic
I was gonna write that, about the Duchess being a bit larger. But wasn’t certain enough to proclaim it as gospel. Seems MG Magic agrees tho.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
This past summer, Happy Jack wanted to buy a tonneau. My tonneau is good and we tested my tonneau (from my Daytona) on his Fiberfab and his BCW.
All three cars were different dimensions – but you’d need a tape to tell.
Not even close!
The buckets on these three cars is quite different in size. Unfortunately, we did not measure, but just test fitted.
The actual dimensions may be important and valuable info for someone needing a top since MG Magic only sells tops for Fiberfab.I think at this point I will modify the bows I got from Moss (copy of original MG TD) to fit my chassis and take her to a boat upholstery shop and get them to make me a Bimini cover.
The reason this is my plan is that the local (Los Angeles) auto top shops no longer make tops but just install “kits” they buy.
What’s this world coming to?No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
Man, that is crazed. Lotta Eastern top shops will sew canvas. I can’t believe a boat-oriented shop would not take the job.
I like the original 2-bow top the best for looks but have not got ’round to installing mine on Bridget yet for a few reasons:1. The length and width of the tub seems to be different enough that I will have to cut and weld the top frame.2. The original frames fold forward so that some metal comes even with the front of the seat, at the side. Original TD seat backs are relieved at the edges to accommodate this, and I’ve not got ’round to doing it to Bridget’s seats.3. Bimini top stays are lighter & seem more adjustable.Here’s where the mounting points are for the original top frame:
I forgot to show the bows I got from Moss. You can see it misses the windshield by about 2 inches.
No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
I got 3 estimates here in little New Bern, NC. And there were a few shops I didn’t go to. Expensive though.
Ed it looks like we got the same bows.
And I think a boat shop is the way to go.
The fix on the bows is a quick cut, stretch, & weld.No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
Am I drunk?
But seriously this weekend I’m going to rebuild the whole front suspension. I’ve got all the parts except the ball joints. So the Green Goose is coming apart.
I’ll post the circus.No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
Ed the top project has been on hold for time and money. Besides it never rains in sunny California.
Please explain again about…”drive fast and stay low…”
Anyway…pulled the front suspension this morning.
It came apart fairly easily. First the front clip comes off:
Then jack her up and pull the wheels. Looks okay…
Yuckkk that bushing is shot (and so are the others)
It was double nutted because the bushing was so hard the nut kept backing off during driving.
Then I dropped the sway bar:
Then the uppers:
And then on the bench:
Then the tie rods:
Then the lowers then all gone:
Now the parts are off to the machine shop to get the bushings and the new ball joints pressed in.
While I’m at it, new brakes and shocks.
Next after I get a few $$s in I’m pulling that 36 year old rear end and putting in a new S10 Chevy rear.No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
Great work.
Makes me jealous of that flip-top front end. Must be nice working around the front of the car when there is no bodywork!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Okay started the next iteration of the Green Goose…
The “stock” Chevette rear end cannot handle the new HP available.
So I did a little research and found a unit that should fit.
A Alpha Romero Spider rear end. Good for 300HP
I picked it up with all hardware for $450.
Working from measurements of the duchess (With the body on) it looks like it will require minimum fabrication.
So the party started tonight.
The Goose contemplating its new rear end….
I figure the change will be easier without the tub on the chassis.
So Two and a half hours later…
Want to bet it takes longer to put back together?
The PO didn’t install any attachment points aft of the seat. the whole tub was held in place only on the front end. Ecckk.
The wimpy Chevette unit to go by by.More to come.
No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
An unusual selection, but if it’s available, what the hell. Looks like it’ll go in without too much of a fight. Will you still be able to run the same wheels?
Good luck
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"That Alpha rear will absolutely keep the gearheads guessing down at the drive-in. People look under Bridget all the time & can’t figure her out. With your setup their heads will explode.edsnova2015-09-29 20:45:54
The bolt pattern on the Alpha is 4X108 and Chevette is 4X100 but no matter as the Goose is getting spoke knockoffs.
Puttered a little this afternoon…
I think I’m back to page 8 in the assembly book.
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Out with the old….
“Old and busted”
“new and rusted…”
You can see the similarity between the two axles.
The new rear end will give me disk brakes, 300 HP capability, sway bar, & a three link style.Anyone need a Chevette Third member?
Has new donut & center bearing.
Axle is making noise don’t know where from.
Make offer. It’s in Los Angeles.No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
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