clitch cable snapped, intsallation problems

[Anonymous]

Hi,  Dennis P in NY.  Have a 78 fiber fab. Clutch cable snapped at adapter on trans, second time in 3 years.  Splicer on a new loop of cable over old on, at trans, but this wore at at adapter hole again.  want to replace whole cable now.  Front bolt holding pedal assembly easy to reach, rear one seems to be under fire wall at floor board.  On top of tnnel is a 4×4 inch cut out, screwed on with thin sheet metal.  Do I go in cut out to change or fight with rear bolt.  Need info before I agravate all my arthritis.  tools are good, hands are worn out!!!!  That adapter keeps wearing out cable where cable goes in little hole and loop back and then gets cable clamps.  Thanks

[edward ericson]

Adapter?

Do you mean the Bowden tube?

If not, maybe a pic or two would help us figure it out.

[KentT]

Probably referring to an adapter that mounts to the shortened clutch cable with a set screw, like this:

http://chircoestore.com/cable-shortening-kit-clutch.html

Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...

[Steve Struchen]

Go to the “Download Manuals” tab to the left. Click “Agree” tab and look for:

VW Based MIGI

Open part 3 of the assembly manual and go to page 115 (or the 15th page of the download) it will show how the Clutch Cable attaches. You do need to remove the pedal cluster assembly to gain access to the cable.

The metal cover is probably over the original shifter hole but that hole is not very big.

See if you can enlarge the radius of the tube where it is rubbing to minimize the wear point. Maybe use a flaring tool? You might try grease at that point too.

mustang_evets2014-10-06 16:03:46

[Paul Mossberg]

My biggest concern is your comment about the bolts holding the pedal assembly, “rear one seems to be under fire wall at floor board.” Normally, you need to remove the pedal assembly to unhook the clutch cable formteh hook on the clutch pedal rod.

But…maybe you can get to the hook through the 4×4 hole on top of the tunnel.

 

If you can, just cut the cable at the rear, tie a line tha tis longer than the clutch cable to it, then unhook the cable at the pedal end and pull everything out of the tube.

 

Tie the line to the new cable and use it to thread the new cable through the tube, greasing it as you go.

 

I too wonder what you mean by adaptor. Most VW based cars use a cable shortening kit which allows the the use of the large wing nut that allows fine tuning the clutch cable adjustment. Like this one:

 

 

The aforementioned wing nut:

PMOSSBERG2014-10-06 16:05:22

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Anonymous]

Hi,  Paul, your photo of bolt with hole and nut at end is what I have.  The cable has split twice in that hole, where cable loops through/  Opened 4×4 patch and clutch hook , cable, qnd tube are directly below and I can get one hand in and now know I must cut cable at hook to get attatchmet end off. since hook is set up so cable cannot come off, unless removed and rotated as an assembly.  May  not have to remove pedal assembly, if I cut cable at hook.  Opening  came in handy because bolts do not screw into captive nuts.  I had to hold nut in tunnel with my fingers, while removing bolt  with ratchet, by gas pedal.  Rear bolt is partially under fire wall so socket cannot go on squarely.  Will have to cut fiberglass behind it to get straght fit and again put fingers in small cut out  to hold nut in tunnel.  Apparently this acces cover was put on before body and so partially covers access to rear bolt.  Car was wired with lamp cord, so I should not be suprised. Thanks , Dennis P

[Anonymous]

PS to Kent, Yes, that is the adaptor I have.  The cable shreds in hole.

[edward ericson]

Get rid of the adaptor. Get some clamps. On my car, the original cable was not even cut, just looped and clamped. It was fine when i replaced it “just because it’s old” last winter. Couldn’t get the new one through with the threaded end attached so I cut it and used even more clamps.

[Paul Mossberg]

Good luck Dennis!

You may still have to remove the pedal assembly so you can get the end of the new clutch cable onto the hook of the clutch pedal rod.

Ed’s approach works too, in lieu of the adaptor. But I ran the adaptor for 21 years before my clutch cable wore out.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Anonymous]

thanks ed, paul and all.  I actually decided to do what Edsvova did.  Ordered wing nut yester, have spare cable  and yes the box has to come out.  May be cutting some fberglass to get to rear bolt.  Thanks everyone, Dennis  P

[edward ericson]

When you put the big end of the cable on the pedal hook, wind and snap a rubber band over it to hold it in place while you get the pedal assembly back in. 

I didn’t know about this trick when I did mine, so I had to do it three or four times before it stayed put.

[Paul Mossberg]

Ditto what Ed said!

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Anonymous]

Funny, can’t get it off hook without removing assembly, but it ewll fall off on installation.  Thanks for the rubber band trick..

[Author]

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