- This topic has 12 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 11 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
In Dale’s (aka Schu) current thread about clutch problems, I mentioned that I am replacing mine.
PrologueAlmost 2 years ago, I had my engine out and did quite a lot of work on it. But, for some reason, did not replace the front engine seal. Stupid. Big Mistake!Well, at 0800 this morning, Jack (aka Happy Jack) came over because he had never removed a VW engine and wanted to see how it was done. I (actually Julie) was happy to serve him breakfast as a token thank you before we started. Jacked MiGi up, and all went well, no busted knuckles and did not break anything. Slid right out. Total time less than an hour with lots of kibbitzing thrown in to keep it fun.Lots of oil inside the bell housing – not good, but expected. My front engine seal had been leaking. Took the pressure plate off the flywheel and sure enough the somewhat worn clutch disk was soaked. I borrowed a flywheel lock from a VW mechanic friend and the flywheel came off (You’ll need at least a 1/2″ breaker bar with a 4′ piece of pipe and a 36mm socket. It’s the same size as used on the rear axle nut so if you don’t have one, it’s a pretty good purchase. Alternative is to buy what we used to call a slap wrench that you whack with a hammer.) Anyway, the flywheel came right off and sure enough the engine seal could be seen to leak.Lots of cleanup followed. Put in a new seal and started to replace the pilot bearing that the transaxle drive shaft rides in.Maybe my memory fails me here but I don’t remember the pilot bearing being part of the gland nut that holds the flywheel on. It is. Anyway, I tried every home and even professional trick that I know trying to get the old pilot bearing out of the gland nut. Drift pins, chisel, hammer, torch, even dremel tool using technique that your dentist would, except with a lot more swear words.Finally I had to admit defeat by a stupid nut that still contained the remains of the old pilot bearing inside.I decided that I had to buy a new gland nut since I had almost totally ruined mine trying to get the pilot bearing race out.Here, I will point out that the new Sachs Clutch Kit came with a pressure plate, clutch disk, throw-out bearing, alignment tool and a cute little pilot bearing. So, I figgered that I could get the old bearing out. Yes? No! I am convinced that the nut and bearing, having lived happily together for 44 years, had fused together.Went to Mid America Motor Works and found the nut listed for $10.99. Guess what, it comes with the pilot bearing installed. Incredible. We had spent at least 1-1/2 hours trying to get the old bearing out. Now I find out that you can’t even buy the nut without a bearing already installed.The reason that I am posting this is to try and help anyone who is planning on replacing the front engine seal. Do not start unless you have bought a new gland nut with pilot bearing installed. My experience is that you will need it.The best news is that now I know for absolute sure, why Ed beat me in this years Autocross: my clutch was slipping. 😉Keep grasping, Roy.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I beat you?
Thanks for that story. I remember taking a pilot bushing out of my Nova flywheel back in the day, but can’t remember how it got done. Do remember that one was in the wheel itself (bolted with 6 or 8 bolts to the crankshaft) and aligning the Muncie M-20 to it through the bell housing whilst lying under the car and trying to hoist it in place with two hands was very enjoyable. Very.Well, I started to put the new throw-out bearing in and noticed that it is a bit different from the one installed in my “69 VW”. It is a 69 engine and is a 69 chassis so I assumed that it was a 69 clutch and ordered the kit for a 69, but SURPRISE! It appears that I had a 71 clutch and throw-out and actuator installed. It turns out that the 71 throw-out actuator fork mechanism is different and the 69 bearing that I just bought in the kit won’t work. So, I have to either return the 69 kit and get a 71 kit or replace the installed 71 actuator fork with one from a 69 and use the kit that I just bought.
If any of you have experience and advice, I would welcome it.Roy,
What advise do you need? My tear out will begin this morning – most important thing – match your throw out bearing and pressure plate to the transmission ( by the year ) – the rest will work out if I remember correctly.Dale, you are right that I didn’t explain what I was asking very well. I was wondering whether it would be ok to replace the throw-out fork in my transmission so that I could use the 69 kit that I had bought or should I just order a “correct” ’71 clutch kit and do it right at an extra $80 expense.
I decided that my MiGi is nice enough to do it right and now have two complete clutch kits. One for the ’69 and another for the ’71 that I just got yesterday and will put in this afternoon.So actually both of my kits “match” by the year. What caught me off guard was that it seems that the PO replaced the 69 tranny with a ’71.All’s well, but my wallet is a bit thinner.Got ya – sorry about that – can’t just send back the incorrect parts?
One of the reasons I sometime order through Auto Zone or Advance here in town is they can take returns if something is wrong and easy to get replaced – most time if they can get the part it costs a bit more then from a VW place but get it the next day.
I still have not decided on doing a trial run on the untested tranny in my Speedster or leave the one I have in the car w/ the 1st gear issue – maybe just clutch related? Another thought was throwing in my new 2007 stroker and breaking that in for my speedster build. We will see.
Everything is apart – waiting now for my son to come back from the DMV to undo the 4 engine bolts and pull the engine out.
On your note above a my steal a fork out of my 73 tran w/ a bad 4th gear and instalL in my earlier tran in my car – see if it will workCan’t seem to find the seller. I usually buy from Az or Ad or O’Reilly for the reasons you give. But, not this time. Bad mistake.
If there is anything I can help with, call me two five two six seven one zero zero six seven.Royal2013-08-17 12:24:11
Thanks Roy
Well I was right – broken fork – everything laying down on the bottom of the bell housing – lots of oil as well – bad seal – most likely the tranny leaking.
Will use the speedie stuff in the short term – buy more for that ride later – was thinking of using a 914 5 speed ( have one sitting in the garage ) anyway so that gives me the excuse to go that route.
Looks like I will try the untested tranny – says it is a AH – 1969-1971 IRS w/ a 4.125 – hope it works.
Roy – you get yours back together?Nope, didn’t get it in today, no help. Tomorrow is the big day. Went over and put my spare SVA distributor on Jack’s low power TD (a 1600DP as opposed to the 2332cc) instead of the 009 that was hesitating badly. Spent the rest of the day prettying up the inside of my engine compartment and wires and plugged a few air leaks in my engine shroud.
It’ll be fun.I’ve got to admit that although symptoms were that you had a broken fork, I had my doubts. Good to hear that you found the problem.Royal2013-08-17 22:00:18
Done with the clutch. New Sachs clutch. No slippage.
Went for a hard run this afternoon – up to 70mph which is about 5-10 over my comfort zone but I wanted to know.Hot sunny day. 1600SP. Holley Bugspray. .054 jets. 009 dist timed 30 degrees btdc @3000rpm:195 degree oil.35# at 3000rpm.40# @ 3500rpm.15# @ 900rpm hot.10W30 Valvoline VR1 racing oil.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.