- This topic has 15 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
You be stylin’ with this “thing”, good car to go out and check the “Ladies of the Night”.
Bill
Unique, appearance, one of a kind – this MG TD with it’s copper body offset by the dark
grey speckled fenders and mini scoop on the hood is striking! Here’s a list of the
upgrades and improvements over the past 12 months:
1. New gas shocks
2. New electronic fuel pump
3. New carburetor
4. New Battery, plugs, wires, and fan belt
5. Aoogah horn (out of character but I love the sound!)
(also comes with extra set of wired hubcaps seen in photos)
4 cyl VW – 1600 c.c. engine shifts real smooth, no oil leaks, all gauges (except for oil
temp) work properly, as do all lights – directionals, flashers, high and low beams. The
soft top is in very useable condition (no side curtains, none came with)… A few minor
nicks, scratches here and there, but nothing major. Comes with manuals, parts catalog,
wire diagram, etc.This car is registered and insured as an actual 1952 MG TD (that was how it was titled
when I bought it), which made it very easy to register (NYS is v. difficult w/Replicas),
and receive antique/vintage car insurance ($100 annually!).. Actual mileage is unknown,
but the odometer reads appx 9400 (may show a tad more as I still drive her w/summer
upon us). Additionally, I have driven her back and forth downstate – a 220 mile round trip
with no issues.
This car comes with a “Transferable Registration” and receipt. In NYS after a certain
age, a vehicle title is absorbed by the DMV, then exchanged for a transferable
registration… That’s how it happened when I registered it myself. The transferable
registration, for all practical purposes, acts the same as a title when you go to register it,
just so there’s no confusion… If you have any questions – please contact me and I’ll try
to answer the best I can. I reserve the right to end auction earlier as I have it listed
locally for sale as well.
Item Location: Monticello, NYReplica/Kit Makes MG TD Replica
US $5,800.00
Reserve price not metBad Bill
What else can you do with a late ’70’s Z-28 hood scoop?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Usually 3. One to DF terminal, one to D+ terminal and one to ground.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAllen I was being a bit sarcastic, I don’t know if you saw the photo in the link where it looks like there are about 10 leading to or from the alternator. Almost like they are using more than one wire together to make up for too-small gauge.
My alternator has only one pole for a spade connector, plus the ground screw on the body of the alternator.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Missed that one Nobody! But you know, maybe whoever wanted one wire per amp?
Kent,
My Ghia had an alternator like that. One spade connector that went to the voltage regulator. On my TDR build I switched from a generator to an alternator and that’s how the instructions said to wire it. Plus it follows the 71 VW wiring diagram.
newkitman2015-03-12 19:54:35
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackSounds like your alternator does not have a built-in regulator, Allen. Mine does, and you’re supposed to remove the external regulator from the circuit, leaving only the hot charging spade connector, and the screwed on ring terminal ground. You simply connect the hot wires that were on the regulator previously.
When I replace my dash and clean up the wiring, I plan to run a new hot wire all the way to the battery up front, because I’ll also be removing the ammeter and replacing it with a voltmeter…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I’d rather have a voltmeter but as yet have been unable to locate one that’ll match my instruments. Also would like a speedo with MPH as the outside numbers and KPH the inside ones. At 30 M PH my speedo will be showing 50 KPH.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackKent, Where does your alternator warning light connect to?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackGood question. I’ll have to check my instructions. I think the spade connection is actually a piggyback, and you plug it in beside the main charging wire, or I could come off the ammeter. I think the light is hot, seeking ground, but now I’m confused…KentT2015-03-12 21:15:49
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Ok, Allen, I went looking for any installation instructions that might have come with my alternator, and couldn’t find any. So, here is how I THINK it works ánd should be wired. Note that my new engine has not been installed, only run on a test stand, so I haven’t wired it in, much less tested the alternator.
Though mine is called a single wire, internally regulated alternator, it actually has two male spade connectors side-by-side that likely are intended to be connected with a single round plug-in connector that actually has two connections within it. The larger spade connector is for the actual charging circuit, where you connect the heavy guage red wire. The smaller spade connector beside it is where the green idiot light wire connects. Further, there’s a screw on the body of the alternator where you connect a ground wire with a ring connector.
If replacing a generator, you remove the external voltage regulator, and join or splice the heavy gauge red wire from the alternator to the heavy gauge red wire that runs from the other side of the regulator to the front of the car and the battery. You splice the smaller guage green wire from the alterator to the smaller guage blue wire on the other side of the regulator that comes from the ignition switch through the idiot light.
When you turn the ignition switch on, it provides power to the idiot light, and provides the necessary excitation for the alternator. The circuit is hot, seeking ground. Without the engine running, producing power, the idiot light grounds through the alternator, and the light comes on. Once the alternator starts producing power after starting the engine, the spade connector the idiot light wire connects is now hot, not a ground, and the light goes out. If charging is intermittent, the grounding provided is intermittent and the light flickers on and off… Note that there’s an internal diode in the alternator that protects the alternator as this idiot light circuit changes from hot to ground and back…
This is similar to how the idiot light for oil pressure works. The wire is always hot when the ignition is on, and it grounds to the engine block through the sending unit when the engine isn’t running. After the engine starts the oil pressure pushes a spring-loaded plunger in the sending unit out, interrupting this ground and the warning light goes out. If engine oil pressure is too low to keep that spring loaded plunger pushed out, you’ll get a weak or flickering light, as it can’t get a good, consistent ground.
If you look at the back of a factory speedo for a VW you’ll see a curved, isolated copper bus bar that the little idiot light sockets/bulb holders push into. This bus bar has a male spade terminal on it, where the hot wire from the ignition switch plugs in. When you push in the light bulb holder/sockets into the back of the speedo, they contact this bus bar, providing power to the outside housing of these light sockets any time the ignition is on. Each plugin socket has another male spade connector on the back that is isolated/insulated from the metal housing. This is the lead for the single filament in each bulb. The wires coming from the engine for the oil pressure and alternator/generator idiot lights connect to these spade connectors, providing a ground through the filament of the bulb back to the engine at the rear. This is the exact opposite of what you’d expect, and how the other lights work, whether dash illumination, high-beam indicator, turn signals, etc. For those, the metal socket/bulb holder provides the ground, and current to illuminate the light comes through the spade connector on the socket to the filament in the bulb. Such is the weirdness of a circuit seeking ground…
You asked me what time it is, and I gave a lecture on sundials. But, I hope it helps with understanding which direction the electrons are flowing, and why..KentT2015-03-13 21:14:52
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Kent. I erred in my earlier statement about the instructions saying to wire it that way. That was in fact for my Ghia which had the external voltage regulator.
Here’s what I have on mine. On the top of the alternator nearest to the pulley is a large black phenolic square with a large screw on stud terminal labeled B+. That splits up with one wire going to the battery and one wire going up front to the fuse block. Directly behind that and slightly to the right (as you face the pulley)
there is a smaller screw on stud terminal labeled DF that goes to the idiot light. Way back near the fan housing there is a brass screw and mine actually has a brown wire on it.And thanks for the great explanation of the lighting wiring. I have to order an other alternator light assembly because mine came apart during installation.
newkitman2015-03-13 20:19:37
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.